bobbyc

if you can use a bandsaw that's your best bet...cut off wheels embed junk in the aluminum which can make it difficult to weld..you'll have "dirty" welds.

the sending unit wont' make a difference...the big thing with a carbed cars gas tank is the lack of baffles. carbed cars can rely on fuel from the float bowls...where a long sweeper in a FI car, and fuel is pulled away from the pickup...and that can cause lean conditions.

i have a guy that does all my stuff here local....sorry no details.

i've painted pieces...it chips with rocks and begins to rust again. powdercoat will not chop...you could beat it with a metal rod and it wouldn't give. i decided to powdercoat all my stuff this time around...i want it to last a really long time.

i've heard napa has some crazy broken stud removal process...runs like $25 a busted bolt...but is supposed to work awesome.

looks good!!...lemme ask thought...what did you do about the rust inside the front of the rocker?

i boy the harbor freight set too...when they are on sale...10-12 bux for a set of 20 bits or so...they work well for all i need...and as others have said...they are going to break, get lost, or become dull...then i just buy another set.

it's not a difficult job, but be prepared to shell out quite a bit for a shop to do the work. after performing the work myself...i have no doubt that a shop would charge no less than $500 for the job...not to mention the price of the bearings...they are gonna run atleast $150 for both sides..inner and outer, i got mine through rock auto.

i'm pretty sure that's what mine looked like

flares come up every so often on here..i run a set on my z...they look to be slightly modified jim cook racing flares. on a side not...that car is a painted up piece of ****...and they call it a show car.

just order from black dragon....i think they are $20 or so a piece.

are you in the states? i've had no problems with dupont or sherwin williams auto...i'm gettin the 918 orange from sherwin....it's fairly inexpensive..around $50 a quart.

mines been down for about 5 years now...started out with some fender work that went extreme, and then into a new chassis as the old one i deemed unfit for the final product i was lookin for.

i can definately appreciate the passion for quality work, but plug welding two sheets of metal, no thicker than 16 gauge, isn't terribly difficult. i'd worry about someone trying to use flux core to weld it up, but anyone halfway competent should be able to handle floor pans.

what squeals? could it be the TO bearing? is it while in gear with the clutch in? or out of gear and just idling?

looks good! lemme ask though...why go through all the prep work for a nice paint job and leave the handles, locks, and antenna?

why is your flywheel so exposed...are you missing the plate that goes between the tranny and motor?

has the valve cover been removed? sounds like a rocker floating around.

most of the Zs here have different tires front to back...you more than likely will not notice the difference.

i'm currently in the middle of building my z....i had rust coming through all the seams...i went to town with a spot weld bit and took all the sheetmetal off the rear of the car and then blasted the car and coated with por15. i'm now in the middle of rebuilding the rockers...both inside and out so i will have completely rust free rockers with a good por15 coating. i didn't want to chance rust..esp with a car i plan on keeping for a while.

i started blasting and the results were what i expected but was hoping i wouldn't have. the metal is heavily pitted from all the rust...and there are a few holes. it'd prob be fine to just slap some por15 on it and take the welder to build up the heavy pits...but i'm going to replace it. here's the donor...while i was blasting i cleaned it up too. hopefully tonight i can get all the spot welds drilled out and get it fitted...i didn't make it to the welders to get gas...i don't have another day off for another 6 days so it may have to wait til then. fixing it wasn't too difficult...only took about 30 min...just need my dang welder and i could make some real progress!

i don't get a lot of time to work on the car...but i did break out the media blaster and clean up some of the parts...i'm workin on the inside rocker around the seat belt mount. i have all the donor parts i removed with a spot weld bit...so i dont have to fabricate anything...just pinch it with some plug weld pliers and put her back together...using por15 and weld through primer at the plug welds. heres the part i took out... the top of the 240z inner rocker was fine...the bottom was gone...the seatbelt mounts between the two are different..so i used the 280z inner rocker...removed the plate on the backside that the seatbelt bolts to....and pieced them together...i'm out of gas on the welder...it will get welded later...i will fill in the holes as well so it will look like the inside of a 240z rocker. and here's whats removed...i will be blasting the inside of the rocker later today...getting rid of all rust...and then coating with por15. i think i have some form of OCD...i know most people don't bother if it hasn't eaten all the way through...but if i did leave it the thought of not knowing quite how bad it was...would tear me up...and i plan on keeping this car for a while.

dang man! sorry to hear...i got the message but i couldn't tell what i was lookin at....if i get a chance man i will try to break away and give you a hand.

has anyone ever tried the celica fender mirrors? appear very similar but much less expensive.

i would sand and then mist the piece with a light coat of base...sanding can cause problems with the appearance of metallics. when base is laid it should appear smooth, it should also be flat in color..no shine at all. . you can easily tell when metallics appear blotchy and uneven, that is the mottling mentioned above. just pull the gun back and give it a couple passes with a light mist. this will give the metallic a uniform appearance.