bobbyc

yeah....i understand the reasoning...i'll just have to build a cover...not a huge deal for me...btw...i installed that cell and had everything built ~5 years ago.

i did exacty what you want and what everyone says not to do...and ground clearance was the reason. here's mine from the rear. i had 90 degree angle aluminum welded about an inch from the top, built a frame in the floor, and set the cell on that frame so it's sealed from everything outside...i can't find a pic in the car...can post one in a bit.

i posted before about this 4runner i've been bringing back. i wanted more than anything to just do the panel repair and be done...have it close enough that it didn't bug me. well now i have the fendes painted and that hard line at the foor makes the color difference obvious. i'm gonna end up blending into the door now but am wondering if this color difference will blend or if it's just gonna make a mess. this is a quick pic from my cell, you can see the fender is a little more yellow than the door. if blended will it be noticeable? is this close enough for blending?

i recently picked up a wrecked 1997 4runner, it was a front end collision and was written off as a total loss, still with clean title, the price was right...it's comin together now and i started painting. the color is anthracite metallic....i'm not blending into the front doors, i can tell the shade dif at the door but not something prob 90% of the people out there would pick up. it's a sherwin williams paint, sprayed with the a cheap $15 harbor freight gun...it turned out really well...i was pleasantly surprised. pics are before any wet sanding and buffing. i do need some advice though. i'm gonna paint the hood, and like all modern hoods, the underneath has all the support. it seems that it would be difficult to prime and sand, and areas just under the support edge would get that rough texture from the primer where the mist would just stick. this in return would make the paint rough...i was debating on whether to prime or just spray and clear...but was worried about adhesion without primer. the last option is just to have a nice tape line around the edge and leave the middle area black. and advice?

nothing missing from the story..i work for the phone company...it was taken right off the counter. i had pictures being delivered but didn't have coordinates cause it was just in my photobucket.it wasn't until this post did i think about the website for the program i had that would upload the pics. it's the website www.itookthisonmyphone.com that gives the GPS coordinates, and i jus figured that out the day of this post. i'm going to the police station tomorrow...it's my first day off since this post. as for a lopez in buffalo...it looks like a pretty small town...and there were only a handful of lopez registered....so before i had the coordinates it was too difficult to use google maps and see if the street view of the registered addresses looked anything like what was in the picture.

check this out...this kid here had his picture taken here in denver..just zoomed in on the area..i assumed what was there was from the pics i took ....it sure looks like this is the same kid with his pic taken in buffalo texas.. plugged these new coordinates in 39.8744 -105.0228166667 and it's a mobile home park up north denver....they honestly don't look like the kind of people that happen to "purchase" stolen goods unknowingly.

yeah...i haven't done anything yet...i'm no so concerned about the blackberry..but more the stuff on it....damn thing was linked to all my stuff...i had to redo all my stuff....plus email that had already been delivered....i will say he looks like the stereotypical thief....i'm going to the police tomorrow...the more i think about it...the more i want my stuff back....

i think this is her...hahaha...it was a pic they took and it was uploaded to my account.. hahahah...even better..i just logged into itookthisonmyphone and it gives me the GPS cordinates where all the pics were taken...sweet!!! plugged 31.464016667 -96.02015 into google maps and it shows me there house....hmmm

i had my blackberry stolen in june....person started makin calls in buffalo, TX....had it shut down....i had a program on there called itookthisonmyphone.....so anyway...every picture they take ends up in my photobucket account....check out the latest. what a bada$$....i'm just waiting on a house number in one of the pics...their last name is lopez...so i tried using google maps to locate their house using street view... they take pics of everything...this stuff just pisses me off.

autozone wants like 180 but they say they will price match....i assume that's with like advanced, napa and the likes locally...rock auto has them for around $120 plus shipping...

i recently picked up a 97 SR5 4runner with the 3.4 for a good deal...it has some front end damage that i'm repairing. the radiator was toast so i'm lookin for a new one....and found some pretty good deals on ebay at $40 for the radiator, $30 shipping. i see them in many other places for around $130 plus shipping. i don't want to buy into the whole perceived quality by paying more money...any one help me out with this...here's the link to the ebay one. feedback appears fine but doesn't really attest to the over quality. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-4RUNNER-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001-3-4-RADIATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27a7dfe21cQQitemZ170320192028QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

has anyone used the 115v harbor freight spot welder? i recently picked up a project 97 4runner with front end damage...i removed the radiator support and have another one on the way...i would like for this to look factory as much as possible so i want to avoid plug welds....just lookin for some insight...

i love my 08 legacy gt, 4 door, good size back seat, good power, subie symmetrical awd.

met up with some of the legacy owners here in denver last night at the test and tune at bandimere. tons of fun!...took my completely stock 08 legacy gt and was able to run 9 times. pretty consistant 15.3@93 over and over....3rd gear was always running out a few feet before the end...so i was either bouncing off the rev limiter....or shifting one more time right before the end. best run of the night was the last....15.1@92mph.these were all with 60ft times 2.1-2.3...i was scared to let her loose off the line as it's a dd, completely stock....so i was feathering it. cars are rated at like 243hp/250lbft AWD. the others weighed and came in around 3500lbs. all in all it was a fun time and i will definately be going back. the tracks only 10-15min away and in 3 years i have never taken my own car. tons of 2010 camaros....raningn in times from 14.7 to 15.6...but were over a mile high here. there was a r32 rhd along with a rhd 240sx, they weren't too impressive either, both in the 14s i believe. civic dude wore a helmet...and running some slicks that looked almost flat...it was pretty quick

i've never had any issues with magnaflow. every single one has been the true size through and through....plus i've never been let down by the sound....they sounds awesome on every vehicle i've installed them on.

running...but only on 4 or 5 cylinders....once its running smooth ill get some videos!

my sleeves were all the same length..i don't remember how long exactly...i just positioned the top of the sleave about an inch from the top of the strut tube. the sleeves are long enough that i can get any ride height i want. i did also section the front and used mr2 struts.

standard ground control coilovers and illumina struts

nice! was than an infiniti starting up?

the only concern would be the depth of the taper, the lug nuts are set in pretty deep. you wouldn't have much material to removed before you just have a huge hole where the lug goes and that's it.

i had my car stolen years back...they lit the front end on fire...there was melted plastic and $hit everywhere...i went and rented a huge diesel compressor...towed behind the truck....it was like 150bux for blater, helmet and respirator, and compressor...and that was for like 3 hours. if your car was ready to go before hand...like 300 bux plus media....not bad. the nozzle was over an inch in diameter...and took everything off....i think becuase of the higher volume i didn't have to focus on a spot for too long and in return did not warp anything.

looking for a clean set of rear control arms for my 240z.

just curious...but azc says you use 74 - 78 hubs...and i see you have the 240 hubs....any reason these won't work? or whats the reasoning behing the 74+ hubs when yours appear to be working fine?

i had them marked with a sharpie...but the heat from cutting them burned up my marks..i should have scratched the metal...live and learn....now i know what to do with the fronts!

are there any dimensions out there for the top of the rear strut tower? i'm welding in my camber plates and need to make sure the strut tops are in the correct location. if someone has stock suspension setup...if you wouldn't mind running a string between the 2 strut tops, and then measuring the distance from the front of the strut tower, driver facing, to the string. i basically want to find out A