bobbyc

double post.

there is a pocket right there...or was at one time...all the channels at the top of the fender funnel down into one point...where there is an opening that it can get in...from there dirt and water collect and rust it out.

everyone is gettin new cars! i've been lookin at the subies lately...tradin in my xterra...since i moved to denver i never touch the 4 wheel drive and i'm the only one in it....gas isn't too great with it either i got a screamin deal on an 08 legacy GT automatic...with the sport shift/paddle shifters.....this is nice since the wife has a hard time driving a manual and being in the city i don't want to always shift...xterra is a manual. but the turbo side of the car has me thinkin just go manual and make her learn to drive it. this is gonna be a DD...often trips across state to see the parents and a lot of driving around town. i want to say that this thing is gonna stay stock...but part if me knows i can't leave anything i own stock. get the automatic or go 5 speed...i need some help!!!

245/45/16

i've been readin up...can't find exactly what i'm lookin for... i sectioned the rear struts on my 73 for the front struts to fit.....i have the ground control kit and TTT camber plates. right now i'm settin up the rear of the car and i'm trying to determine ride height with camber plates. the general measurement i found in the sectioning faq is 7.25" from the bottom of the tube where it meets the cast hub....and that says assuming a 5" sleeve...if my sleeves are 7" am i safe to assume the distance is gonna be 5.25"? is that gonna be the point where i mount the bottom of the sleeve mount or top?

here's how mine are run...i've run SS braided for both feed and return.

i'm in denver and have a mig...i wouldn't mind givin you a hand.

awesome gabe! can't wait to see it back on the road!

the flares are basically the wheel arches and a little more...the rest was built. thanks!

did you section? i guess i might as well while it's all apart...and i'm powdercoating it all.

i had to just mount the braided on the little clamp that held the hard line in place on the frame...and the connect the braided to a short 20" hard line i had to install...it doesn't have one of the tabs and clips to hold the connection in place.

yeah...i don't know what it is...maybe the springs in front..the top coils all sit on each other...and like the bottom 3 are spaced apart...the rear coils are all spaced evenly, progressive vs linear i guess. i mean..the car looks fine just a little higher than i'd like...here's a crappy pic from a few weeks back...still workin on the flares...tires in the rear are a 245/45/16 so not tall..the fronts are a 225/45/16 so close in size. if the camber plates will give ~1.5" additional drop that'd be good enough for me...and save me from havin to section....i guess i will get it setup without sectioning...get it to desired height...and then measure amount of travel left and go from there...if sectioing is required i will go from there...thanks!

i'm gettin ready to order the GC kit along with the TTT camber plates.the front of my car is fine..could go a little lower, the rear is what i'm really lookin to lower. i'm wondering if anyone knows the amount of drop i will get by installing the camber plates and gettin rid of the top strut isolators on my 240? cause what i'm thinkin is the camber plates in the front will give me all the drop i need, thinkin ~2". the rear of the car will give me another ~2" with the plates, and if i need i can remove the spacer pressed on the bottom of the strut and section the rear as needed to get additional drop. i'm not lookin for my floor pan supports to be 3" off the ground...but to give it a good 2-3" drop over stock position. i already have the illuminas for a stock car and want to use those...about how much more of a drop can just the sturts take over the tokico springs and not bottom out?...i did some searching but couldn't find anything in reference to the drop camber plates give.

i hope the rockies win....main reason i hate manny....and prove that an inflated payroll won't mean success. i would really like to have seen the indians get in...

season ticket holders did get first dibs the night before..but they experience the same thing....hours for them to make it through the process cause it was so slow.

the whole rockies world series ticket sales was a total cluster F*&(....i mean first they win the nlcs...then thank the fans..we're gonna reward you by putting tickets for sale online only so that any one in the free world with access to a computer can purchase tickets......then list them on ebay or craigslist for min 10x face value. first morning their server crashes and they say the didn't expect that many people to visit the website...when that is the only way to get tickets...second day tickets go on sale and their server still can't support a large number of visitors, so chances of gettin tickets are similar to calling into a radio station...it refreshes and tries to access every 2 min, if it doens't get in it counts down and tries again in another 2 min. then once i got in it would kick me back out and make me wait another 2 min..... very disappointed in the approach they used to sell tickets.

one time my gf and i had gone to wendy's for some food late at night..i had a burger with some STRONG onions...we were in her dorm and fell asleep...around 3 i woke up and went home (twin beds are terribly uncomfortable)...my z had a taillight out and i got pulled over....the officer told me he smelled alcohol on my breath and that i needed to get out of the car....i told him he was smelling onions and not alcohol....he made me do the roadside sobreity test..needless to say i passed

i have a millermatic 135 and i love it....it's 110 but nice and portable. it does all the body and light fabrication work i need....but they say no one ever wished for a smaller welder...but i love the portability...if a buddy needs help...just throw it in the back of the car...and we can setup shop at his house.

i have a foam filled fuel cell with rear sump in my car...but still with less tahn 1/4 and a hard corner i would pick up air sometime...while it was down i decided to redo all my fuel lines and build a surge tank. it's upside down in the pic and that hump on the side is the mount with nuts welded on the insided bolt it down. just thought i'd share. this is about $30 worth of material...and that's counting the AN bungs and AN fittings including the over priced 45 degree fitting.

if it fits bolt it in....it'll work...the transistions could create turbulance...but if your pipe before the cat is 1.75" then i wouldn't really worry about it.

here's me and little man....i don't get much time to work on the z now...but it's worth it

i'm building a surge tank for my z....right now it's sittin at about 17oz...whcih seems sufficient buti wanted to get some opinons. i plan on feeding it initially with the stock FI pump and then a walbro 255 after that ....the shape is just cylindrical...i was thinkin about a conical bottom but i think i flat bottom on both ends is enough (need help there) ...all the cylinder has to do is stay full and i don't think that will be a problem...esp with the return line being fed back into it. i'm welding 6AN bungs at all the connections. one question i have is...will the pressure of the return line increase if it's pumping into a full surge tank...i will have a line from the surge tank going straight into the fuel cell. thanks guys and sorry for beatin a dead horse...i didn't see any post in reference to size.

that's mine there...but don't plan on a ghetto install...i'm actually buidling a box and drilling holes...welding nuts to the back side...and will weld this box to the tranny tunnel so i have a good mounting point in a good location and an over all clean install.

i have a CNC i am going to install...it's sittin in the car now.

i stole the pic from another members site....but mine is like yours...i think the one in the pic is upside down.