auxilary

is deemed a success! I picked up about 25lbs of dry ice (for me locally, glacier ice company, $1 per lb), chipped it apart, spread it over the floorpans, and heard POP POP POP! as the sound deadening froze and disconnected itself from the floor pans. I went at it with a welding chipping hammer, and had the sound deadening removed in about 10 minutes! remember to wear welding gloves when handling dry ice, and have a fan running with garage door open when working with big loads. In case you're curious about transporting dry ice, any ice chest will do.

had a shop install mine, kind of a questionable job that will need to be fixed shortly (they burned through my floorpans welding them in) my frame rails were a little arced, so what i did was had the shop place a jackstand under the baddog rail, and lower the car onto it, and weld it into place. the weight of the car, disperced evently over the rail, caused it to arc into the shape, and when welded in, it straightened out a little bit

that's heavyz's old car. he sold it a couple years ago after finishing it.

I am really not buying the whole 230hp and 30mpg out of a matrix. slapping bolt-on parts like intake, exhaust, and such on a car does not automatically do +15, +10 hp. The matrix also had a detuned celica gts engine, zz2 same as the corolla xrs, rated at 164hp. I've test driven the 6 speed corolla xrs and it was turning out 3000 rpm at 60mph in SIXTH gear. It was rated at 34mpg on the highway (and that's an aerodynamic car). According to autos.msn.com, the matrix xrs with 1.8 liter zz2 motor (164hp vvti) and 6 speed is rated at: Which is kind of sad, because that's what my mazda 3s 2.3 liter is rated at. with a 5 speed. Back to the topic, question: why bother with fuel efficiency for a 240z? I don't want to steer away from hybridz's guidelines, we do encourage all sorts of swaps and do not bash new ideas. Given that, I think ca18det or sr20det are you best options for fuel economy.

wow. that's sweet. only options are 5 lug? no 4lug for those of us that will not be able to afford new rims?

your rear tire is on backwards

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPH2BZRW3LM&NR=1

might want to put an ass warning on the title, some of us want to keep our jobs

well, since you're in california: 1. you're not required to smog your vehicle 2. diesel vehicles are smog exempt in california

To clarify, for some reason I thought he meant CLUTCH. I bought a brake MC in 15/16 from kragen for 50 bucks the stock clutch is 5/8ths

yep. brand new, $37 shipped from kragen.com

yes, but at a super inflated price. $415 shipped for 16x8 or 730 for 16x7?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP01/25-1163 for a spiffy price of $729 for a set of 4 in 16x7

I paid: $400 for new GC coilovers $500 for new illuminas $200 for new MSA front/rear sways $450 for new toyota s12w calipers, spacers, z31 rotors, pads from mike gibson (scca) $60 for 4 earl's braided ss brake lines $350 for used r200 lsd 3.7 $140 for new full ES bushings kit $200 for rear disk brackets from Ross (240sx calipers were free, but let's assume $100 for them) $100 for a pair of rear z31 rotors $30 for rear pads So far I'm at $2,530 with more than half new parts. Labor, obviously, done myself. Unless it's a quaiffe LSD, it's nowhere near worth it. plus, parts are used, and auto accident = stress and shock? We can assume $400 for rear A-arms, front LCAs, TC rods, etc... which is still less than what he's asking. My opinion, however

I just bought a 5/8 new unit by beck/arnley for 37 bucks. came with reservoir too. sometimes, it's just worth i t to get a new unit (i know you said 15/16)

kind of up in the air right now. friend offerred me his garage to continue working on the car and finishing it, but if it doesn't work out for some reason I can do an LS1 swap in about 3 weeks to a running car. I posted this last night out of frustration because I didn't have the garage option at the time

long story short, i won't have a place to store/work on my car in a little over a month. I've invested a LOT into the car, and going to take a huge loss. looking for someone to buy my rotary/turbo setup with all the Z mounts, turbo, etc. Everything's already engineered, mounts made, downpipe, wastegate, fuel plumbing, etc. Trade me a low mile running LS1/t56 combo with mount kit + cash, whatever is fair, and everyone can be happy.

205/60/14 is a more optimal size for a 14" rim.

i used to be, but for some reason my account exists, but not able to post/send PMs. I reregistered last night. motor mount was custom built from scratch. Motor wasn't rebuilt by me, but it looks like it was rebuild in hte past judging by the amount of silicon squished out from between the housings. Turbo is a garret t04s, .7 cold, .84 divided hot, 60-1 and p-trim.

doesn't really matter, since gravity pull is the same on all corners. and you only have 2 points of tension, rather than a triangulated setup, so it won't really make a difference as far as frame vs no frame load

http://www.ectomo.com/?p=361

the japanese equivalent of fuel magnets and tornado intake?