EMWHYR0HEN

whats wrong with the classic 2 man method anyway? never fails for me......

The RB25DE puts out 187 HP @ 6500 RPM and 170 ft/lb @4800 RPM with 10 flat compression. Thats what im running right now for my daily driven car. Pretty tourqy engine down low and punchy up top. Lacks mid range but then again im completely stock. You can find RB25DE's anywhere for cheap too. I picked mine up complete for 900 usd. let me know if you need info, i'd be glad to help and see what kind of power you can make from an NA RB.

Thanks Z -ya. I think your right about putting on the stock 7/8 master. I think the 15/16 master is better suited for the rear disc setup. I'm guessing the F/R proportioning is alot different between the 7/8 and 15/16 master cylinders. Also, I just put back on my old rear shoes, ajusted them and drove it for a while. Then I pulled the drums off and noticed that 100% of the shoes had contact with the drum. I guess if I want to run the new shoes I'll have to resurface the drums and bedd the shoes.

Hah, I know EXACTLY what your talking about. Maybe its because we just mash on them at the track. I see you wipers are moving up also, I take them off cuz is hard for me to see the apex's when you sit so low and the wipers move up, lol. Thanks.

John- Thanks for you input. The shoes were properly ajusted. They had slight drag on them. However, I didn't resurface the drum before I installed the new shoes. I put the shoe inside the drum to make sure it was a sure fit, and the drum didnt have any lines or imperfections. any Idea on why the entire shoe surface isnt contacting the drum? i'll look into bedding the shoes. Bjhines - i'm glad i'm not alone on this. At the track my rotors were blue and I wouldnt dare to touch them, but i was able to hold onto the drums and shoes right away. Sad, I guess I should have gone disc instead of trying to mess with the drums. By the way, the 300zx Z32 pad your using, is it from an NA z32 or tt? I used to have a 240sx and I upgraded it with Z32 TT calipers. I remember the TT calipers were bigger than the NA's. I was very impressed with the stopping of my 240sx, If your current setup with the vented Toyota brakes is somewhat similar size to the Z32 fronts, i'll have to look into doing the vented setup, or wilwoods....

Dahm, the AZC brake kit is big bucks for a poor college student. I guess if thats the best way to stop, thats the way i'll go. any sugestions on what I should do in the mean time to improve my braking. My rears are working the way their suppost to, I guess their just not working hard enough. what I don't get is why there is a lot of good talk about the 4x4's when their actually not that great.

Yeaah, Umm i'm missing an R34 Z-Tune. If you could get back to me that would be great...

I wanna see it Pop a wheelie!

I recently changed my stock front calipers to the Toyota 4x4 4-piston calipers. I dinn't have the dinero for the vented, but I did get a pair or clean refurbished calipers from Napa and some new powerslot rotors. I also picked up a set of KVR pads for the front, and changed my rear wheel cylinders because I was having to pump my brakes. Since I had the rear drums off, I got some new carbon metalic shoes, and also changed my stock 7/8 master cylinder to the 15/16 master. I then topped the the new master off with some ATE fliud for my upcoming track event. My first impressions on the street were not that great. The pumping of the brakes was gone, but the overall braking force was weak. The brake pedal was harder than before which I was ok with, However, It seemed like no matter how hard I pressed the pedal, it still had the same over all braking force. I only became more frustrated at the track as I couldnt get the car to stop. I was overheating the fronts badly as they were fading on me. The fronts were definatly working, maybe a bit too hard, so i thought maybe my rears arent helping out. As an attemt to fix it at the track I removed the rear drums so see that about 2 inches of the brake shoe had contact with the drum. I really dont know too much about drums and shoes, but my friends told me that was typical for new shoes. So I put everything back together and drove the rest of the day slow. Bummer. Is the proportioning of the 15/16 ONLY for rear disc? am I supost to wait for me shoes to fully break-in in order to stop correcly? Should I go back to my 7/8 master? right now im really regreting this bake "upgrade" because sadly, I was happier with the stock setup.

I hope they really test them thoroughly, because I can already see problems with an electronic braking system.

Thats exactly what I was thinking. The guy with the Integra better be part of a mobb or have some serious pull. If not he better be worried about retaliation against his family/ friends or even his home.

How do you make a Honda go fast? you put a Toyota engine in it. How do you make a Toyota go fast? You put a Nissan engine in it.

It sure does look like that engine is at home. Looks Great man. 13.4 @108? Traction problems? ......

well theres a local drag strip here, but it doenst have any scales. Now that I think about it I remember going to a place to recycler cardboard, and they took the initial and final weight of the car to see how much cardboard i had. I wonder if they are actually accurate..?

where does everybody go to weigh their car? I'll be going to wilow sp[rings this weekend, anyone if they have any scales?

Ive never heard stripping teeth from the clutch disc. I think that you would break a pressure plate, clutch disc spring, or the disc friction material before you srtip the teeth from the disc. Before you go to that conclusion, check if theres fluid in the clutch m/c, and then physically check to see if your clutch bearing fork is moving when you have someone press you clutch pedal down.

ohh good they moved the shifter from the dash to the right location this time! It looks great. Just wondering what it would look like w/o the spoiler, it looks kinda funny IMO.

really? Crower? Interesting....

Yes, the Nismo FPR is adjustable. Part number : 22670-RR580-US Its meant for an RB26 but it fits right into the stock location with no fabbing for the RB25 also. It ran me $120.00. I dont think youl have a problem shopping around for it. I was considering other FPR because the nismo one is dahm expensive for such a simple part that doesnt event have a pressure gauge. But if you add it up, it's alot simpler to just bolt on a part than to find new fittings, hoses, clamps and all that stuff. Youl need a gauge to check the pressure. I set mine at 36 ish at idle speed, and spikes up around 42ish max at any rpm above that. Now these number i got form a friend with a Z32, I really dont know what the pressure is suppost to be at. If anyone knows, that would be great!

oh by tps I mean SWITCH, not sensor, you NEED the sensor!

well, I know the manual says to dicon the tps for timing and aac, But I have a friend who's been doing all the nissan swaps for 15+ years now and he told me you dont need it. maybe he just got lazy? Ive been problem free without it, and i can adust my ign timing and aac fine with out the tps. have you checked your fuel pressure? My car had the same symtom when i first got it running. the idle would be fine from first starting it, then if i just moved the throttle a tiny bit, the idle would drop down to 400- and black smoke would pour out the exhaust. My problem was too much FP. I used a biggr fuel return line and got a Nismo FPR and that solved the problem. also check Ign timing? vac/boost pipe leaks? leaks before MAF to turbo? I think your getting closer Chris. Keep tyring, and good luck!

Oh no, you know what they say.... Once you go Vtec you never go back. I guess whe're gonna loose you to another Honda. lol

I think your refering to the throttle position switch, which you dont even need, so dont bother. check the air regulator. It might help? also, is the idle bouncing up and down, or is it just low where it wants to stall? I know Nissans dont do so well when you dont re-circulate the blow off air. Si maybe try recirculating if you can. I never had any luck messing with the AAC valve, I would put it back where it was and try elsewhere. Good luck

sweet deal, dont those have K20's? whats the HP rating?

I agree with getting another car. I once did a track event at the streets of willow springs and a guy with a clean R33 got hit bad by a guy with a turbo'd Geo metro. Funny, but I felt bad for the guy because it as going to come out of his pocket. I would hate that to happen to me....