EMWHYR0HEN

just curious, what engine and transmission setup could you possibly use with a 3.15 final drive? thats like top speed salt flat status. im assuming thats what its used for?

typically no one puts in a stock r33 fuel pump or anything equivelant and go for somthing more over kill. Therefore, youd need a FPR to back down the fuel. Also, another contribution to high FP is if your using the stock hard fuel lines on the car. they are alot smaller ( epecially the return). lower volume= high pressure.

well you said "tried installing the tach adapted" did you mean unfinish? howd that go anyway? only thing i can think of is that you installed your tach adapted incorrecly and/or tampered with the ignition. Now i'm only saying that because you said you had this problem only after you messed with the tach adapter. If it's not that, sounds like there is a lack of air, fuel, or spark.

you should have posted this in the rb forum. If you have an RB and a autometer tach you dont need the tach signal from the ECU if you have an MSD or Autometer tach adapter (which you need in order for a tach to work). Yo need to splice into the coil pack main power (the white wire that powers all six of the individual coil packs) and run the tack adapter in between that wire anywhere. then ground the adapter unit, send the signal to the tack, and your done.

when I saw the picture of your launch I thought, hmm that looks like palmdale (my hometown). by the way is that 10th st.w heading towards that soccer park? be sure to post your next slip at LACR!

All that money just to hear your BOV go Paaaashiiiek. I think you should just do what you intended on doing IMO.

ive noticed with nissans that recirculating the BOV pressure back into the intake helps with keeping the idle steady, esp when coming to a stop. The ECU reads the air that came in through the MAF, and when the excess air is released into the atmosphere the system looses pressure and the ECU compensates for that by throwing in a little more fuel, which is why youl maybe notice a small backfire or black smoke and stumbling idle. So save your self some money on gas and spark plugs. Recirculate that BOV.

Someone mentioned on this forum that the RB25 pressure plate and disc are interchangable, but thats probably about it. I wouldnt dare on trying to swap engine internal parts. oh, also the L oil press sensor threads into the RB so that you can use the stock gauge. However, the water doesnt work.

so basically he's going SR? thats a pretty good deal for someone who has the money and makes it super easy. by the way, is the wiring harness a plug and play kinda thing for the 240Z?

Foreal People........

did you mean they re-used the stock head gasket? because as far as i know, its ok to re-use stock head bolts if they're in good shape. I think i searched around on google for about 5 mins and was able to find an rb20/25/26 FSM for the skyline. If you have no luck, i'll see if i can upload mine. good luck

i think you can plug all the variables into a fuel pump size calc. Ive seen one of those before, never used it though. Or you can be hardcore and do the math!

I think you need to physically check if fuel is coming through by taking off the fuel line that goes to your fuel rail and running the fuel pump. if there is fuel coming through, you're problems somwhere else.

thanks for your feed back. I guess i'll stick with name brands

with a DET head im guessing they rev around 7K

I beleive they have identical gear ratio, and they look exactly the same internal, and externally. I think it just has slightly different bell housing. same thing for strength if u ask me. I Have an RB25DE, which has the same tranny as an RB20DET and the tranny bolted right up. The L28 was only like a half inch different in location than the RB. I'd go with the RB tranny

Hah, I tried it out and my temp gauge read 70 de. C then i turned on my heater and it jumped to 80 right away. Im an Idiot

Thanks guys, I didnt know that water/ coolant only passes through the heater core only if the heater was on. I thought its always passing, and when you turn on the heat it just blows air through the core, into the cabin. Ok, well now i have to figure out how im going to mount it onto, or somewhere near the thermostat. anyone know where i can get those radiator hoses that have fittings of some kind on them? any sugestions?

Looks great! how far back does the splitter go? I dont get it though, if air passed under the car FASTER than the top, the pressure under would be LARGER than the top. Right? and Pressure always wants to move from HIGH to LOW. So the fast, high pressure air under the car wants to move UP where the pressure is LOWER. wouldnt this make the car have lift?

Well I use royal purple gear fluids and it is, what it says it is, purple. I dont know too much about petroliums, but if its really viscous when cold, does it mean that its still going to be viscous (compared to a not so viscous fluid) when its hot?

I installed an Autometer water temp gauge and screwed it onto a brass "T" which I then spliced into the heater hose that goes from the engine block to the heater core. Heres a picture : No leaks, so took it for a spin and it slowly got up to 75 degrees Cel. ( 167 F) . Just after that the temp went straight back down to 60 cel. which is the lowest the gauge goes . Well I found out my thermostat opens at 76.5 deg. C so that sounds right. However, after the thermostat opened the temp woudnt go past 60 C , and thats with me keeping the RPM's up high in triffic, and no mechanical fan or the electric fan running. popped the hood and noticed that the hose i put the sensor on was slightly cooler than the other heater hose. Doh! so the hose i put the sensor on was the water after hitting the heater core. switch it up and got the same results. So, do you guys think that I put the sensor in an insufficient place to read water temp? If so, where should i place it? It seams im kind of limited because the autometer fitting is 3/8'' , which is fairly big compared to the small metric fittings all over the engine. Or could it be that my radiator is just over kill? its a 24 x 19 x 3'' double pass. It just raises the question if its unsafe to run the engine below operating temps.

I'd love to get a nice set of Wats as well. I have 14 X 7, zero offset wats and ZG flare..... I just hate the spacers. But since you have the dough, DO it! I was also considering: BBS 3 peice, build your own wheel. Availible in 16'' There around the same price for a set of 4. You could also consider a set of Panasports which look identical to wats. Ive seen a few sets for negative offset applications that were 3 peice and had bolts all around the center ( if your into that look) the set I saw were 15 x 10.5 and 9.5 with a HUGE lip, bigger than wats. sorry if ive made you decision even harder, but hey its your car/choise

hmm, good to know. I still think a DE would run a little less FP. I think maybe a Z32 NA would have the same FP. But now im just guessing...

Yeehaaw! About the whole JDM thing..... I understand what your brother said was totally idiotic. Tell me about it, I hear that kind of stuff all the time and it just makes me want to whale on the people who say it. I know guys who have JDM tattood on their backs. I personally know guys that worship the Japanese car culture so bad that if JDM meant painting penis's on their cars theyd do it in a heart beat. JDM Is over rated. As long as you dont fall into that catagory (you know what im talking about) then I guess that would make you more open minded. However, theres no reason to run away from japanese cars, Its hard to deny it, but they make dahm good cars. But, what ever works for you my freind.

Well besides platinum the only thing I can think of is Denso's iridium plugs, which by the way I highly DO NOT recomend for Nissan engines. But, Since were on the topic of fuel pressure, May I ask what I should run my fuel pressure at? It's a stock RB25DE. I have a walbro 255LPH fuel pump and i had to back it down with a Nismo FPR because it was running to rich. A friend told me most n/a nissans ran at 36.5 ish PSI of fuel pressure. Runs fine, just wondering if that sounds right. Sorry For the steal on the thread!