NCchris

Got two on a parts car, I'll look tonight for condition, the rest of the car is rusty. I'm right up the road from you. chris

Buy the book instead, the author encourages you to do it yourself. He supplies drawings for all parts required and makes suggestions where to find the material needed. My intent was not to profit from a ripped off a design but to truly diy. I make a lot of my own parts, for me, it's part of the building experience. chris

Sorry for the confusion, Front mounts, consisting of setback plates, spacer plates and GM motor mount. I need the thickness of the spacer plates. Thanks, chris

I've got one on a parts car you can have if you want to come to central NC and remove it. chris

I am machining my own JTR design front mounts and setback plates using the info in the Datsun Z V8 swap book. Since I work in a CNC job shop machining aluminum everyday, it seemed like the best thing for me to do. I have found conflicting information as to the thickness of the spacers used. In the book it calls for 1-1/16 and 2-1/16 for the spacers. At the JTR site they specify 1-1/4 and 2-1/4 thick. Could someone with a storebought mount set measure for me? All the other dimensions for bolt holes etc are spot on and everything bolted up to my 350 shortblock just fine. A search brought up one post from '04 about a ZX-V8 swap. Thanks! Chris

Yeah, welcom back! where are my springs?

Thanks for the answers guys, will a 700R4 cause any heartburn? TIA chris

Similar to my results except me being a machinist, I built my puller. Made it heavy duty too! Got one out and busted my puller on the second one. I wound up drilling it out. Earning the spindle pin merit badge is a rite of passage for early Z car wannabe mechanics! /chris

No threadjack intended but, which engine mounting position or "kit" allows you to use these long tube headers? TIA chris

Well darn, old post! I thought OlderThanMe was back! He owes me. chris

I was having similar problems with my 93 NA and fixed most of it by cleaning the PTU wiring harness plugs/contacts. I also eliminated 2 of the plugs by splicing and soldering the wires when I relocated my PTU under the nose where the old airbox used to be.

Say what???!!?

What would you be willing to pay, you've seen mine. Make offer! chris

Got one, no TPS. Here Pix available. chris

PM sent

If you are up to a 7-8 hr drive, I've got a set on the parts car you can have for taking off. The axle stubs are mine though. I'm in Asheboro NC.

Nice job on the rails! FWIW, Hard Dog is a roll bar for a Miata.

Good advice! Selling that car would be like selling a child. It's not like you need to get rid of a payment or anything. Keep it, store it, when the time is right, start over on a new chassis. If you still feel the need to sell it then do so. I'm sure you know your car will bring a premium, but you will never get out of it what you put into it. My .02 chris

Propane torch and HD putty knife worked for me. Mineral spirits worked good on the residue.

Yep, I paid considerably more than that for 350Z seats and they are bent (from being wrecked). They required a considerable amount of work to fit into my 260 Z. I also drive a Z32 and they are comfy seats. Check for crash damage if you can.

Too picky??? I use my leaf blower.

Very nice toy! A guy set up one of those things at the bench next to me last weekend at the range. He said he would let me know when he chambered a round. I'm glad he did, the blast from that thing is awesome! I don't mind getting peppered with .22 LR, .223, and .45 brass from next bench shooters, but the blast from that thing is unreal. He and his son shot it, kinda funny, his son got bit by the scope. Bloody eyebrow and all! The carnage at 100 yds was also awesome!

Yeah, he does nice work. Not inexpensive though! Another easy is to send your 10/22 action to Clark Custom. He along with Volquartson were the early innovators in the super accurate bull barrel design for the 10/22. A fat barrel, Hogue overmolded stock, and a little trigger rework makes a nice little rifle. John, be carefull, guns and shooting is another slippery slope just waiting to suck you in. The 5 shot one hole group is a similar challenge to a better track time, better ET etc. just not as expensive. Scratch that last remark, I've got (so far) approx $1500 bux in my .223 AR with more stuff on the build list......

Woops, I was talking about my 10-22. There is a lot of aftermarket for the Ruger. A quality match bull barrel can be had from a lot of manufacturers. Drop in triggers, all manner of plastic, wood and composite stocks are available. They are kinda like the civic of the 22's.

Nice job John, those little rifles can be really accurate. On the other hand, I added a match barrel, Tasco 2-7 power airgun scope, pillar bedded the action screw with an aluminum bushing, and glass bedded the rear of the action. It will shoot into one hole at 50 yards if I do my job. One thing with .22's, they can be real finicky about which ammo they like. Remington has a standard velocity target load in a 100 pack that shoots real good in my .22's. I'm planning on doing my trigger next on my 10-22. The trigger on your bolt gun should be pretty good stock.