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NCchris

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Everything posted by NCchris

  1. Quick question: Will the tarantula clear the hood with your engine mounts or do we need a custom intake? Edit: Another quickie: Keep AC? chris
  2. Beautiful work, man! I love it! The VH 45 is a really neat engine in my opinion and you are making me want this. I already have the perfect vehicle! chris
  3. I had a similar experience except except I used my spindle puller to pull the off threaded portion of the spindle pin! I wound up scrapping one of my housings after I had sectioned and welded it back together. I even drilled a hole thru the pin lengthwise and the pin is still there.Thank goodness for a parts car! I had to earn my spindle pin merit badge on my parts car. It was easy, both pins pulled right out with the puller. chris
  4. I started with a little spot of rust and after investigating, I wound up replacing both floorpans and outside rocker panels! The rust is probably more than you think. chris
  5. Guys not intended as a hijack but toward the bottom of this link I have some pictures of the JTR mounts mocked up on a front crossmember. chris
  6. FWIW, I found that it wasn't easy to find a World Class T5 that fit the V8. I did locate a Camaro part out and got the tranny, bellhousing, flywheel and shifter. Too many people were trying to sell me the WC tranny from a V6! chris
  7. From what I could tell, the passenger side has to go as shown in my pic here. If you try to put the plate against the block, it hits the fuel pump flange cast into the block and will not bolt up flush. On the drivers' side, either way works depending on the exhaust/header you are using. Realize also that the steering shaft has to go thru this area as well. HTH chris
  8. Before I called the scrap man, I would see if any local Z Car nuts might be interested in a "deal" chris
  9. They are made from 6061-T6 aluminum. Identical to the ones in the thread I referred you to. Yes I can do paypal. PM if interested. chris
  10. I have a pair of setback plates. 1/2" thick to JTR drawings. No spacers. $50 bux shipped.
  11. On the passenger side the spacer has to be next to the block because the plate will not set flat because of the fuel pump protrusion. Drivers' side could go either way but to me, with the plate close to the block it looks like more exhaust header clearance. I plan to use the Sanderson street rod long tube headers and am going to mock it up outside before dropping it in. Soon as I save enough coin for heads and headers, I'll see how it works. Might need to notch mounts on drivers' side to clear. chris
  12. Scroll down to the last post in this thread Those are my homade JTR mounts. See how much they set back the block compared to the ones you posted here. HTH chris
  13. Somebody needs to buy these! AIShelby wants to sell as a set, I already have axles so we cannot deal. Still looking....... chris
  14. Anybody got a set of THESE they want to sell? TIA chris
  15. Yes the steering shaft is very close. If you do a search, you will see some peeps have "cleared" by denting the header pipes where the steering shaft is and some cleared fine without any surgery. I guess it depends on individual engine placement. chris
  16. Look here, that's what I'm planning to do. Also look here, they have them for straight plud, angle plug, square port, D port, and choice of primary size. Several posters say these fit. Could be modifications as always chris
  17. So far I've collected a '90 350 for my early 260 swap. The T5 seemed like the simplest solution and this brings me to my question. What have you guys with a T5 done to make it live with a warmed-over 350? I got a WC T5 out of a 92 Camaro with a V8 so I'm on the right track. (I think). It has roughly 100K miles and appears to have not been apart. I plan to rebuild it with a kit and add anything necessary (aftermarket wise) to beef it up. What do I need? I already have the R200 swap with the turbo shafts using Modern Motorsports stub axle adapter plates so the tranny is the weak link. My use is a street car, Sunday driver, occasional strip and autocross car. Thank in advance for your help! chris
  18. One of, if not the main issue is the condition of your swap candidate. How much rust does it have? These cars rust from the inside out! Lots of people (myself included) reinforce the frame prior to a high hp swap. As previously stated, the search button is your friend. Search for "rust", Bad Dog frame rails and subframe connectors, JTR swap kits on here and on the www. A good investment would be the "Bible" of sbc swaps, the JTR swap manual. Some of the info is a bit dated but still correct. Good luck with the swap. Everyone says they are a blast. I wouldn't know, mine is not complete. chris
  19. If these two guys can't fix you up, I've got one too! Same price similar condition except mine has been somewhat shaved on the outside. Heat shields will not bolt on. chris
  20. Would like to have a relativly low milage tranny in good shape ready to use! That probably won't happen so a good rebuildable core is not out of reason. I would expect to replace the syncros, bearings, shift fork pads and I will generally upgrade a tranny. I would need all the gears to be good. I need the bellhousing too. Thanks, chris
  21. Well, I made a goodwill jesture to the herd of spiders that live in my parts car and they allowed me to remove the front crossmember. Here we have a front view with the 1-1/16 spacer on the passenger side and the 2-1/16 on the drivers' side. Here are each mounts as I assembled them. This makes the most sense to me. Passenger side: Drivers' dide: The mounts might could have been a little thicker but this combination fit without drilling out any holes larger for additional clearance. A level on the top of the block and on the crossmember indicated the block is level with the crossmember. chris
  22. I have a very nice F54 block and crank I would sell for $100 plus shipping. chris
  23. I have a set of eight turbo pistons on the rods, plus a couple of spares, a turbo oil pan, and oil pump with pickup. $150 plus shipping. chris
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