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240zV8
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Everything posted by 240zV8
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What I might do is look for a ram thats been wrecked in the bed (just make sure the frame is straight), then build a dump on it. The cummins seems to get great mpg compared to the rest, what if I got a great deal on a 7.3 IDI, or a early PSD? Stick with the cummins? 500,000 miles is incredible for the life span of a small work engine with that kind of torque. If I end up just swapping in a cummins in my chevy, would you stay newer than 94 with the engine, or do the early cummins get good marks from you?
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hey, i know how you feel. I just got a mm175 and just got a cylinder of c25 gas for it. I've been welding something everyday, lol. I just got done welding some supports for ramps I made for my equipment trailer. I need to start getting the 8" spools because little 2lbs spools get used to quick. I don't think i'd like that spot/stitch control, because you'd have to keep the tip in the right spot while the pause happens, I think it's easier just to pull the trigger when u want to weld, lol. Anyway, have fun with it. Do you know how many amps it draws, that thing could be a electricity hog...
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Not sure if anyone here is real familiar with Diesels, but i'm looking to get a cummins 5.9l to put in my 91' chevy 3/4 ton so I can actually tow my excavator. The only diesel i've ever owned is my excavator, but it's not a cummins, lol, it's a small yanmar. Should I just take whatever I find to a diesel mechanic, or does anyone have any things to really check for. You can't check for cavitaion without tearing the engine apart right? I guess i'm just looking for some input on diesels in general, and help choosing one. I just checked the paper and there was two seperate 2002 5.9l cummins ho for $2500 each with computor etc.. But i've heard no way, because the wiring in those things is amazing, lol, and to stick with the 12v 5.9l. This is just somthing in the planning stages, because towing with a 350 tbi and 700r4 isn't the best setup in the world when towing 8k+. I'm already planning on adding a suspension lift, so clearence will be fine, and the stock chevy diff is plenty strong, but I have no clue about diesels, except that I would love to be able to have all that torque down low to pull, plus i've really wanted to switch to manual trans as well.
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If it gets the job done, then it's a good find. Have you looked into replacement parts, thats the one thing that would concern me about getting such a old machine. I don't think the welder you linked is the same one. It's got digital adjustments, so i think it's a new model maybe. I'm sure that one cost alot when it first came out because all mig welders back then were expensive, but times have changed, thats why they can sell similar units now cheap.
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well i'll put it like this, after driving that impreza for awhile and going to a 30+ year old Z, ur gonna be dissapointed in everyday driving unless you update the suspension, steering, braking, etc. My friend has a wrx, and another has a impreza like urs. They handle great, there smooth, all that. Z's are kinda raw, but with a nice engine are very fast and handle turns great, but they won't handle like a nice newer car on daily driving. So you should definently test drive one for a nice long drive to see if it's what you want to be driving as ur everyday car. They can be reliable, but there not new car reliable, it's more of a squeeky rattling reliable that you have to deal with unless u dump alot of money in it..lol
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Take it for a test drive and feel out the drivetrain, suspension, listen for the normal ticks and rattles throughout the car. Check the differential to see if maybe they swapped in a r200. If your not really mechanically inclined, you might want to pay 50 to have a mechanic look through the engine if your planning on keeping the l28. Put some nice wheels on and it's a sharp ride.
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A 79 350 out of a truck won't be very fast in stock form, unless it's been rebuilt recently. It still won't be fast, but it would be a good daily driver if it runs good. Like he said, it's still a 350 so theres plenty of power to be had out of it. Money is the only thing between it and alot of frame twisting power.
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whoa....keep ur head up, theres always ways to fix metal. good to hear you got out unharmed.
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i think you'll love the LT1 in place of the l6...lol
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I picked up a 90cuf C25 cylinder today for $165 full. The best way to describe switching to shielding gas from flux wire is 'crisp'. Everything is better with solid wire and C25 gas. You can see the pool better, you can control penetration better, no smoke really, clean bead, thicker bead, easier to fill gaps, easier to control in every way. And the sound is alot better, lol. It's alot more crackly sound than flux has, it's great. I got so into it that I forgot about my 30% duty cycle and welded until the overload light came on, so I learned from that. Just got done welding up these ramps for my trailer. I still have to put some support legs, but the angle iron use to be a tool bench that I found at the metal recycler.
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I think I worked it out, for now. The blade that I had been using in the saw was a 7" norton cuttoff wheel made for mitre saws. It's thicker than normal angle grinder cutoff wheels so i think thats why it struggles with thick metal. So I went and got a 7" norton angle grinder wheel and it cut through a 1/4" thick 2"x2" piece of angle iron in about 10 seconds, i was amazed. The only problem was the arbor is made for a angle grinder (bigger arbor) so I have to spend some time getting it centered on my saw. It cuts 100x better, and is a cheaper wheel.
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LS swap is more powerful, more driveable than L6!
240zV8 replied to m1noel's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I bet you can slide corners at almost idle...lol -
would a smaller bandsaw be able to handle 1/4" steel without dulling the teeth in no time? My jigsaw works the best for thick metal, but the blade wears down to fast so i don't use that. Would you buy a bandsaw, or a oxy acetylene setup? If it would be used for things just 1/4" and thicker, because I can cut thin stuff fine with what I have.
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I'm trying to cut some 1/4" angle iron and it starts off fine but i guess once the blade heats up, all it does is create a divit and stops cutting. I got this saw for $5 at a garage sale and it's worked perfect for a couple years. I know it's not made for metal but it's built really strong and is all metal contruction, it does a great job for everything thinner than a 1/4". I'd think a chop saw would be the same though because it's not a matter of the saw, it's a matter of the wheel wearing down so fast on thick stuff. Same with wheels in my grinder, they disintigrate if you cut 1/4" steel.
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this looks good, but it's like $45 per blade http://www.metaldevil.com/
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new VIDEO!!! after some good tunning on the Megasquirt........
240zV8 replied to big-phil's topic in Non Tech Board
That was a good vid Phil! turbo cars remind me of 2 stroke dirtbikes, it's the 'calm before the storm' factor..lol. Once that whistle comes in, you got a whole new monster under you. -
This is the saw i put my cutoff wheels in. It works great for 1/8" and thinner, but those norton cutoff wheels struggles with 1/4" steel. I'm wondering whats the best metal cutting blade to put in instead of abrasive wheels. It's not a chop saw, it spins at 4,900 rpm so I think I can run any of the regular metal cutting blades. Anyone have a good suggestion so I don't have to deal with buying cutoff wheels all the time. And all the black dust gets everywhere including in my nose, lol. I'm working on getting a oxy acetylene setup to cut thick stuff like butter, but not yet.
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anyone can bang a hammer, and I hate to turn it to a male female thing, but I had to help my mom out recently when she got a bid from a contractor to do some windows and knock down some walls for her. She almost got talked into a 20k job that was a 5k job. But this sounds more like a contractor who went to fast without thinking.... bad deal. Alot of contractors usually think there way is the best way, and if u second guess them, they'll walk away even if the job you paid for isn't complete. And it prolly would have cost him alittle more to do it the right way, but his way in his mind was fast and cheap.
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this is really old, but I have a question. What transmission/transfercase bolts up to a l28 to be able to have 4wd like the MQ patrols/Datsun nissan Safari's had? Has anyone seen one for sale in the states? It would be a cheap swap into a toyota 4x4 i'm working on with more power than the 100hp the 22re pushes...lol..just wondering if anyone knows
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I just use my angle grinder to get straight to metal, but im gonna order some of those small pads for the die grinder. And yea, i've welded up all the steel I could find around the house...lol I really have a deep respect for people who do auto work or metal work in general and can get pieces smooth to match without body filler. I replaced a section of a fender on my trailer and for a first time welder, and first time doing a patch it came out good, but needs alot of filler to smooth. But the guys that can fab things to look stock by hand are amazing...
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yea, the tips are the business end of the welder, so i'm gonna stock up on them when I go to pick up a cylinder. I was suprised today, after I changed the tip I welded a new fender onto my equipment trailer and i only had a few little burn throughs. When I get a cylinder and some .024 solid wire, will I be able to actually weld a long bead on sheetmetal (not worrying about warping)? I have to tack the whole thing with .030 flux or it burns right through. I must have layed 200 tacks today..lol
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i think i touched the pool a couple times, because the hole in the tip got all distorted and the wire was getting stuck on it....
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Looking for advice/exp. on my next daily driver...
240zV8 replied to datsunlover's topic in Non Tech Board
truck: 94' or newer dodge ram with the cummins diesel, 22+mpg on a 3/4 ton truck, great looks, can tow anything u want.... Toyota tacoma extended cab 4x4 SUV: toyota 4runner those are just what i'd want in the price range, I'd take the ram for sure, thats what i'm currently looking for. -
we have plenty of hardware stores, but i was ordering some air tools because they have great deals on them, and i got a cutoff wheel arbor adapter for my die grinder that i couldn't find anywhere else, oh well. I called today, and now they said they have to issue a track on it, so there gonna send a letter I have to sign, then send back, then wait for them to do a trace. Then hopefully it can get shipped again. So maybe by the middle of next month i'll get the order...lol... It's already been almost a month since it was shipped. But I think USPS is at fualt not HF.
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U can get a ticket for spitting on the ground, so I hope they don't start cracking down on engine swaps. Even if they do get serious about that law, they should have a inspection place to pass engine swaps that are done well and securely.