240zV8

this is a great thread in the faq section http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207&highlight=r230

do a search for any of the following: r230 r200 vlsd lsd you should have all the info you need.

have u sanded and polished the paint yet?

I found a Hobart 180 for $470, so i think i might get that one, or a hobart 175 for the same price.

I know you can weld thicker metal with multiple passes, but would a 140 handler be able to safely weld 1/4" steel on a utility trailer for example? Because I have a trailer I need to re-weld a few bad welds on, but most the other work I will be doing won't require a 220v welder. So i've been really reconsidering the mm135, hobart 140 etc...

I wouldn't get that ^, but i can't speak from experience either. I'd rather get a hobart 140 for that price, than get a cheapo 220v HF unit. Who knows though, it might weld great. It's just that the manuals for those units say only a few parts are available for replacement, which kind of scares me...lol. Tractor Supply had the Hobart 187 on sale for $550, but i can't find any left.

If you want to move the engine back, there will be alot of little things that will have to be dealt with. like the header/manifold issue for clearence, hood latch, driveshaft shortening, new trans mount etc....So you might just think about driving it how it's setup and if you don't like the wieght on the steering or somthing, then go and move it back a couple inch's. But I say get the engine running great and see how you like it, because you can always change the other things if you don't like how it handles. Since you have to get the engine running anyway, just handle that first, bolt it in and see how it drives.

but...u can't do it for $2000, unless you get a donor car and part it out and make ur money back.

The scarab position is what you have installed with ur v8. The JTR and newer mounts put the engine right against the firewall for better wieght transfer. I can get you the diagrams/schematics for the JTR mounts that set it back against the firewall if u want, so it's easy to fabricate. The rear diff should be changed to a r200 if u plan on adding any power with a v8 (280z, and 280zx have them in there manual trans cars, and the 75, 76 280z auto has the r200 as well) There's good step by step instructions here somehwere, just do a quick search if u want that part.

u sound like u have some money to spend, you might think about selling the engine u got, and get a ls1. Because building a 383 or similar is going to cost quite a bit anyway.

if you want to go past 400hp, stroke it out to a 383. I think u'd be happy just cleaning it up and get some fresh pistons, some nice aluminum heads, a matching cam, and a nice intake setup. U'd prolly get a nice 120+ hp right there. other than that it can get alittle pricey depending on the deals you find. I don't know ur budget, but start with heads, cam and intake (if ur bottom end is in good condition)

just to help with peoples responses... what kind of driving are you gonna be doing mostly? Get the right combo of heads, pistons, intake, carb, cam and you should do fine. lol, i'm sure other people will be able to break down a perfect setup so you can price it out. Do you know anything about the engine, like if it's been bored out or anything?

How come he doesn't want you to drop a v8 in? If money isn't a problem, a v8 is better in everyway, and just because it isn't bolt it, doesn't mean it doesn't bolt in, you just need to make a couple plates and spacers ( no big deal), and then it bolts in.

The LS series is the third generation of the chevy 350. First generation was the 350 chevy, second generation was the Lt1, and the third generation or the "LS series" is the Ls1, Ls2, Ls7.... The LS series is just the 350 all grown up with power, reliability, looks, sound, performence, not that the prior 350's weren't great, but the LS1 is what, 400hp stock?

grinding a weld isn't a big job either, with a angle grinder you can take a weld down in a matter of seconds. especially patch panels, there gonna be small most the time so ugly welds aren't a big deal. Of course we all want a nice welder, but theres a huge difference between a mm175 which will end up above $1000 with gas, and a small unit for $400 that will get most practical jobs done easily.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Datsun-Z-Series-1974-Datsun-260Z_W0QQitemZ250064660850QQihZ015QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250064660850 seems OK, maybe someones interested here, just thought i'd post it.

I'm still new here, and it didn't hurt my feelings when i was told to search. Because almost every question you can have is answered with a search. Nothing wrong with pointing that out in a nice way. You can use part of your original exhaust, but it will be alittle small for a v8, and you'll have to adapt it to v8 headers/manifolds, so you might as well upgrade the rest as well while you at it for a better sound and performence. www.jagsthatrun.com will have a book to save u alot of trouble with a z V8 swap.

tools are always a good gift... i got a couple of same things you did, except I gotta take back the torque wrech because it's a 1/2" and i need 3/8" drive. but the air ratchet is killer...

Must have been fun unwrapping that....lol, i mean the throttle...

Nope, the chevy motor mount goes straight to the crossmember hole. Thats why this is such a common swap, because you just have to grind the crossmember mount alittle wider and it's ready for the motor with setback plate, spacer, and chevy motor mount installed to the 350 block. grab the JTR book, it make's me sound like i'm smart..lol

i don't think the fog lights would draw more than it charges, my guess is your alternator has a problem. It should always re-charge once your driving, if it doesn't thats usually the problem. Since u replaced it, that makes me feel stronger that it's the problem.....just like everything else, they can be faulty.

but for the spacers you can stack them to get the right size

set back plate is 1/2" aluminum spacer is alumunim or steel 1-1/16" passenger side, 2-1/16" drivers side 2nd spacer is aluminum or steel 3/8" thick I'm in Bellingham, and there's no welding when swaping a 350 in, it all bolts up, unless you want to do somthing extra. There's a pretty big Z club around here, but i only went once with a friend and his dad.

love the attitude u got davy. Christmas really is about family and being thankful, so money isn't always the do all end all....BUT, heres the things that made me happy after a home depot trip...lol. orbital sander, air ratchet, torque wrench, air filter....

i just had to take a picture, it's the first rib roast i've done...lol...