LLave

First of all, your drawings are very nice (I am a CAD drafter for a living) I think that your product will definitely satisfy a niche of people who do not have welding capability but want to beef up that area. Personally, by the time I am already drilling holes in a frame and fabbing plates, I am just going to fire up the mig welder and be done. I would follow John's advice. Best of luck to you.

This advice may sound a bit rough, but i suggest you follow it. You can find chassis for sale relatively cheap and will be WAY ahead.

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will go with a ST rear bar. Fitment was actually not that big of an issue for me. My factory rails and passenger floor board were pretty mangled, so I was repairing those any how, i used the rails as a reference of where my floor "should be". I did have to knock in the sides of a few dents on the rails near the t/c bucket, and how far forward the rails should go is not very clear. But I completely understand that the product has to be multi-fit. I would bet that no two s30s are exactly the same.

Hello, I have an early 260z I am installing BadDog full frame rails on (front and rear). My car has the in front of the diff factory way bar, I have noticed that the frame rail looks like it will hit the sway bar. Has anyone else ran into this? I am thinking that i may just cut off the factory mounts and go to a behind the diff bar (suspension techniques). The other option is to customize the rear frame sections so that they clear the factory bar. Input? Advice? Comments?

Great work! I know just how much work goes into a cage. Really well done.

Thank you so much for those photos. I found what the didn't do just as amazing as what they did do. Complete absence of bling and unnecessary parts. You can really see the load paths on the cage. Very well thought out.

http://www.amazon.com/Carroll-Smith/e/B001H6MCS4

Mike, I don't know if you have already covered this and I missed it, if so I apologize, but what made you decide to abandon efforts and a first gen SBC in favor of the LS1? I mean to ask, what is so advantageous about a LS over you 383 that made you decided to go to such efforts to swap?

I have a set of speed huts in my car, I can tell you that you will not be disappointed. Great product.

I would solder that, or you may end up with a lot more than 10k or resistance.

I was in Sebastopol, doing 26 in a 30! Guy ran my plates and it came back as a Porsche, which started the hassling. We got that all settled (human error, my reg is good) but now i have to fix some things. Let me know if you have one. Thanks man!

I got a fix it ticked for being bumperless, I need to get my hands on a decent rear to satisfy the law. Anyone have on in the bay area?

That is pretty close to my combo. I used a TPI motor with iron vortec heads, a Performer RPM intake, edledbrock carb, decent matching cam. Everything else stock, my car makes a tick over 300rwhp on the dyno. Not too shabby for a super low cost combo.

How about in the north bay. I have a tailgate i need fixed up. Shallow dent and a scratch.

Just like the title says, I need a body shop for a small project.

Hah, missed that! I mean... I give such good advice it was done before i even hit post!

Can that throttle set up and get a decent cable. Seriously.

How about nitrous for spool?

Wait.. What? With enough scrub you can be THAT cool?!

My motor is very similar. It makes 300RWHP and is a blast to drive.

I had a similar problem with my T set up, master is a tilton slave is a stocker. I disassembled everything, wiped it clean, cleaned up the corrosion, flushed it clean and resembled carefully. That took care of my problems.

Mine is made of all 1/4" material. It is ridiculously over built, but it was made from what was on hand.

I need a 260z passenger side window regulator asap!

Got some nice bolts in there. The holes in my diff were almost exact fit for a 3/8 fine thread bolt shank (but not a course, go figure). I had to just tough the drive shaft to get them to slip fit. Bought some grade 8, 3/8 fine thread bolt with the right length of smooth shank. Cut the threads shorter and dressed with a file. Worked like a charm. Only... they came loose the first time i drove. This weekend I will be adding some trust green loctite. Too bad i have no garage right now. Wrenching in the dirveway anypone?

Hah, I didnt even think of calling a driveline shop. I will give that a shot.