LLave

Nice, i respect the guts and effort, but that is an awful lot of work just to put the wheel on the wrong side!

have you tried heating them with a torch?

I dont mind inspecting the car every now and again but i think i will stick with urethane. Though I do recall someone suggesting that rubber should be used in the TC rod to allow enough free moment.

Get out the BFH! Also an air chisel with a soft tip out to shake it loose. Tough if they are rusted that bad i doubt the drum is worth saving anyway.

Thanks it sounds like i may be sticking with my urethane bushings for a while. As far as the engine bay bracing I was planning on doing a strut tower bar that made a triangle between the struts and the firewall. Then possibly an x brace connecting the front frame horns to the struts, if i can fit it around my motor, which will be placed as close to the firewall as possible (SBC, no distributor). JohnC what type of modifications do you recommend against for the stupid mistake inclined? I would really like to end up with a car that works well for ME.

Nish, I dig that setup, its nice and simple. Are you guys running mono balls or heims in the LCA pivot? It seems to be bushings would start to bind up when adjusted out like that. Do you guys find that to be true?

Excellent question. In all honesty... I need that margin of safety. Most my experience is has been in a lightly modified 2005 STi that was pretty damn forgiving. How exactly would the set up very if you were building a car for a pro vs a rookie?

Sounds like you have quite a bit of experience with heims on the street. I have heard from some people about issues of stress cracks at the suspension pick up points due to heims transmitting more vibration to the frame.... which i am not totally sold on. Did you feel the performance benefits outweighed the negatives?

So i have changed direction with my Z, I have come to realize a real track car is not in order. I need an aggressive street car / light track duty. The car will be SBC powered, sectioned struts, minimal interior, etc. Here are the undecided items. Roll cage, i have my main hoop and door bars done and i do place a high value on the added safty. But i am concerned about the safety factor on the street (ie helmet-less). My tool box area was all cut up from the previous owner so some sort of chassis bracing will be necessary. Front frame rails, I bought the material to fab new front frame rails but i am wondering if that is really necessary on a hot street car. They are not rusted out. Perhaps it is just a waste of time to fab new ones. What do you think? The car will be getting Bad Dogs. Poly bushings vs Heims on control arms. I was planning on doing some sort of heim joint TC rod and control arms. But i do have a set of ploy bushings. Are heims a bad idea on the street? Help a brother out. What to do? What to do?

Holy ridiculous sheet metal skills, I would have classified that celica as nearly unrestorable scrap.

I am sort of considering taking a victor jr. welding in some bungs, putting an elbow on to a 90mm GM throttle body and controlling the whole mess with a megasquirt (i already have one)

Dudes, maybe not a very popular opinion, but ahhh... be careful scanning things to the internet. JTR worked hard to produce that manual and that is their source of income. I understand the original poster said he already purchased the book but still, you can not verify that, and once you upload an image like that to the web it is around, for other folks to bypass paying for the book. Look, I am not a anti-piracy nazi, but i do think we should support the small businesses who support out hobby.

Those first manifolds are nice (http://www.firstfuelinjection.com/products.htm) but the pricing starts at $1000 that is a big chunk of a complete LS1. That L89 is very cool but again they have well over $1000 into porting their manifold (porting by extrude hone is not cheap!) It seems i can get a nice used LS1 for about $3000, save some weight and be close to my goal right off the bat. But I think what grumpy is saying is to take that 3k, get a inexpensive summit stroker kit, invest in some heads, port the intake, get some SLP runners and call it good. Correct?

I would like to do a fuel injected SBC with about 400-450hp for my Z, on a reasonably cheap budget. I have this 350 TPI motor that was supposedly nicely built, but i have no idea what exactly is in it. Is it good money after bad to even attempt to reach my goals with it? Would i be better off just selling it for whatever i can get and going for a LS1, LQ4, LQ9? What to do, what to do? Edit *doh, nice type-o in the title

Ummm... What about weight? Sounds weighty to me. I think the weight would probably offset any performance increase.

I know I have seen you around. There is also an all white one that I am pretty certain has a V8. I have seen the both of you in my neighborhood (s-section) fairly recently. Next time I see you I am going to be forced to stop you for a beer and z-car discussion.

Whats up local guys? I have been seeing a quite a few hybridZs around, one in my own neighborhood. Next time you see a tan Titan with a HybridZ sticker in the back window throw a wave and light em up!

Looks like an interesting find. I hope someone has some experience with them.

I think you may be misunderstanding the term bump steer. Steering wheel input has noting to do with bump steer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_Steer Also, it looks to me like there is a rag joint in the first photo on the previous post. Though I could be mistaken.

Turbomustangs.com (now theturboforums) http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php Is probably the best DIY turbo forum around. What you want to do has been done many times before, go learn from other people's mistakes and save yourself some head ache.

Bad ass!

When you add something like a remote dual filter and a cooler is it necessary to upgrade the oil pump? I would imagine adding the tubing and second filter would have to increase the resistance and therefore the pressure head the pump must overcome.

Ahh I see. It is not so much a rust issue but an issue of the flat surface being true. I don't see anything wrong with truing them up on a lathe. But then again I am not an engineer and I draw pictures for a living.

How about just media blasting it. Or maybe a bath in muriatic acid?

The smallest diameter that will get the job done in the largest width you can reasonably fit.