280zex

I think I got this pic from TonyD, cant remember anymore.....

I took the measurement in the driveway. I would add that my tires are worn out!! total distance was maybe 1/8 inch over 23 inches total distance per 1 full rotation. Tires are Champiro 225/50/15's, super soft rain tire. 30psi pressure. I was told they "might" last 20k miles at best, and that's what I got! I did purchase the short shifter, however, the sealant that was used during re-assembly is NOT willing to let me remove the original shifter plate from the trans.... bummer!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh you little sneek! I kinda figured that was what you hinted to in that text you sent. Ya, so um, idk much about Toyota, but I do turn a mean wrench, and you darn well call me up for some help!! cant wait to see that

your right about the rear gear set and tire size, and I forgot to mention what I am running. the fifth gear ratio of my new 240sx trans is 0.759 to 1 rotation. The rear diff is 3.90 to 1 rotation and my tire travels 23 inches (225/50-15) per 1 full rotation, so in 5th gear 60mph is 2700 rpm. By the math my Z can spin the rear tires to 150mph in 5th gear turning 6500rpm

I have the 1990 240zx 5 speed, I paid 225$, and it came with some replacement parts. I then had that completely rebuilt as it is NEVER a good idea using a trans in unknown condition!! Just about any 5 speed gear box for the KA engines will work, except for the 4x4 truck, unless your going for an awd z?? There is different gear ratios as well...... all you have to do is google "KA 5 speed" or "240sx 5 speed" there is plenty to read up on

Bolth cars took me 1 year each, and the Ranchero needs the cooling system upgraded. That BB Ford puts down the heat!!!!

IF only I had the $$ I would do the MMR/Ford 4.75L DOHC/tremec 6 speed swap in my Z!! I actually had e-mailed a HBZ forum member that fabs mustang engine cradles, with the intent of doing the swap. Unfortunately I just got laid off, so not right now.............but maybe in the near future????

I have the HF wire feed, works kinda ok for most things. I did modify my trans cross member and re-welded it with the wire feed, no problems, NOT a beauty queen tho, but the welds hold!! I have been no good with trying to spot weld body panels with the HF wire feed. THAT may be due to the fact that I have no idea how to weld, yet anyways...

I had the same issue last night, I heard a strange clicking noise coming from the rear diff area. I assumed that a u-joint was on the way out. What I found was a loose drive shaft flange bolt to the rear diff. I read that you found the same, and fixed that, but the noise continues??? This may be an odd suggestion, however have you checked for debris inside the wheel center cap/hubcap?? I owned a auto repair shop and had a customer with a 4X4 with that same "clicking noise" from the rear of the vehicle. My guys checked it over well and found a small rock INSIDE the wheel center cap!!! Drove us bonkers!!!

I build hot rod Fords for friends, when I have the time...... 1976 Ford Ranchero, 460 with a .120 over bore, bla bla bla 1997 Mustang (yearly special?) 4.75L MMR SOHC V8, Procharger super charger with 12psi boost, and and and

Finally got the interior finished

If it was available in the US market, I would go buy 2, right now!! Seriously I would trade in my '05 VW Jetta 2.5sc for what I could and cash the rest of the price out. I am willing to bet that if this car could be sold in the US, it would sell like hot cakes....... I wonder if starting a petition for getting the Datsun GO, with deposits would help????

Ok I re-fabed the center dash section, 2nd times the charm??

Better???

Ya the weekend plan is too detail the rear panel, it will be black around the tail lights. Also the metal grate in the rear air dam will be black. I have been wanting to do the rear light panel for some time now, as I want to check the rubber gaskets around them lights and what not.

475$ total cost for the HVLP blower and paint spray gun, 6 gallons blue dip, 1 respirator with filters, 1 roll painters tape and 1 gallon of xylene. Total prep time was 3 hours of washing and then re-washing the Z, hand dry then masking. then 4 hours spray time, with 15 min cooling off periods (food/drink) between every 2 pots (on the spray gun) of dip spraying... So basicaly call it a 10 hour day, to include clean up of masking and minor dip-repair.. FYI: I use a soap base called orvus, aka sodium laureth sulfate, for car wash soap. Its a super grease cutting agent

The plasti-dip is pretty tough and holds up well. There is a weight penalty tho, 9lbs per gallon @ 5 gallons sprayed. Its funny that most people who have seen it so far think that its a rattle can paint job, due to the non-glossy look. I like the light blue even tho it is a bit bright. Maybe next time I will go with solid white

No gloss for me. This is my first paint/dip, and I did it in my drive way. I borrowed a car tent from a friend and watered down the driveway, but that didn't help much. So I have a bit of over-spray on the concrete, oops.

The dip likes the rubber trim, almost too well, so be prepared for that. Get some xylene, its useful to smooth ruff edges. My gas door sits too close to the back edge. I trimmed it but still had issues opening the door with out tearing the dip. I used 5 gallons, for a nice thick coat. Original color was metallic whine berry/root beer, Nissan paint code #?? I have some bondo on the hood. it is still visible thru the rustoleum primer and dip. My hood is fubar and needs some serious re-working, but I'm no body man!!!

That's right I sprayed my 280Z with light blue plasti-dip... check out dipyourcar.com if your interested. I purchased the full spray kit and 6 gallons of dip. I have 1 gallon left. I'm not connected to dip your car, just a consumer. I found out that the plasti-dip likes to stick to the window rubber/trim really well. It did come off like it is supposed to, however this took a liberal amount of elbow grease. Also I should have masked off the tail lights. The dip did come off, but it did leave remnants around the edges that I cant reach with out removal of the lights....

Ok here is a look at where the stock 240sx shifter sits in my Z. definately gota get a shorter unit!!

I drove the Z to work for the freeway shake down test. All I can say is WOW!! The 240sx trans swap is the best considering I have the 3.90 rear diff. 2500rpm @ 60mph, thats down from 3100 rpm. The stock sx shifter has to go. Its too tall for my Z as I dont have the center console, so the shifter knob sits about 8 inches high, and its a bit squishy feeling. It seems to be a 2 piece unit with the upper half connected to the lower half by some type of big rubber bushing/vibration dampening setup. I did find some after market short shifters with out that integral bushing. I also need to fab a new shifter boot, my original unit ripped on me and I get hot trans tunnel air blowing me in the face in 2nd and 4th gear ;-( I highly recommend this trans swap!! The gears are butter smoothe and no more grinding going into reverse!

Yup this was my solution. I just ground down a long bolt and rounded the ends on the bench grinder