280zex

try e-bay for water injection kits, i got mine for 185$ from a cooling mist auction. as for DIY maybe you could use a electric fuel pump?? and a relay. You could use a holley fuel jet for a nozzle, but thats just guessing....

that looks good however check the angle that the gauges point, slightly downwards. Not so good for a quick glance while driving. My idea is to fit the center section so that the right side is counter sunk into the hole while the left side is not. This "should" allow me to point them gauges right at me.

Update: So I got my transmission back from my now former friends shop. I went to another shop and got the help I needed to re-assemble the 240sx trans. While the guys were doing the re-assembley I got a dremmel with the 90 deg tool attachment and a bunch of 60 grit sanding drums and ground down the countershaft bearing seat to allow clearance for the thicker countershaft gear. that took 4 hours but I got'r done! Now I have a totally rebuilt 240sx transmission fitted with the 280zx bell housing. The cost was 225$ for the used trans, 650$ for a complete rebuild with heavy duty bearings and 50$ for re-assembley of said trans at another shop. I got a deal from the guys at the trans shop after I explained my issues with the old trans shop. Apparently they know my former friend and his shady work ;-( Now its time to get the trans back into the Z and start the mods to the trans brace and shorten the drive shaft.....

thats the plan. "oh ya by the way no warranty on the work done, fix it your self if your that smart" was the answer from my friend the shop owner. its taken them 6 weeks and I still dont have a working transmission. Lesson learned = friends and $$ just dont mix........ And no they didnt re-size the shift rod hole to the correct size, I had to go into the shop and do that this morning MYSELF. Thats when the ass chewing started................

False alarm, the trans shop called and they are unable to clearance the 280z bell housing to fit the larger countershaft bearing and gear. So it looks like im s.o.l.............................................................;-(

Hey were you able to get the windshield gasket and glass installed correctly??

I finally got a call from the trans shop and my new gear box "should be" done this afternoon. Hey its only been a month for a rebuild AND 2x the original price quote ;-( I seriously need to learn how to rebuild my transmission.......

its funny, nobody has asked what that red switch between the 2 gauges is for

Yes thats the plan, to move the boost gauge to where the fuel level gauge is now. So it will be oil pressure, water temp, then vac/boost gauges in the stock dash holes. The fuel level, O2 and g-meter gauges will be setup in the center dash. I have to re-build the center section of the dash to a better configuration.

yes, its been this way for 5+ years now. The chevy master cylinder is for 1/2 ton truck with 4 wheel disc brakes. I also replaced the hard lines with a larger diameter. The setup works well and a heavy foot on the brake pedal will lock up all 4 tires equally.

yes this is the idea. I want to cut the plastic to match the INSIDE shape of the dash, then mount that so it is pointed at an angle to face the driver more. The gauge in question is an Autometer DPIC. Its a g-meter data logger. It was located on the steering column and matches the speedo and tach gauges. Now that I am replacing some gauges and moving things around it looks kind of hinky right now ;-(

I'm willing to contribute!! However I am still waiting for my transmission rebuild. When that is done I'm off to the track!! My car 1976 280Z, turbo 2.9L straight 6, weight with 1/2 tank gas is 2680lbs Brake upgrades are: Toyota 4x4 4 piston calipers up front with non vented rotors and SS lines. Rear disc conversion with 1 piston stanza calipers and non vented 300zx rotors with SS lines. stock brake pads on all 4 corners. Chevy 1 1/8 master cylinder with upgraded hard lines. Stock brake booster. I have an Autometer DPIC g-meter guage installed in my Z. This measures accel, lateral and decal g's along with 0-60, 60-0 times via datalog. I can post up what my findings are. My tires are about used up, AND I will be on a 1/4 drag strip. So my GUESS is that may sqew the information a little as most tracks have a lot of rubber on the surface giving extra traction v.s. regular road surfaces (?). I am very curious about what other Z drivers find out!!

I had the same issue and this is how I fixed it. The main power feed for the fuel pump has a connection just behind the passenger seat. I unplugged this and ran my own power lines from that connection to a bosch relay under the dash. I then used the original signal and power connections to the new relay. You can use spade connectors in the original wire harness plug so to keep the harness intact. This took me about 30 min and has lasted 7+ years with no issue. I also installed a blade type fuse to the power supply at the relay for extra insurance...

This is not the final setup, more like a work in progress. I used Lexan and painted the back side of it. This gives a shiny apperance Unfortunately the guages point slightly downwards, so I need to try something different. I might try to cut the lexan to fit the shape of the dash, and recess it...

I just got my new replacement clutch pack in the mail. This unit has the 6 puck friction disc and the pressure plate is suposed to hold 500 torque. The email I received said that this setup is not prefered for street use, but should hold up to the power my Z is making. My special 240sx trans rebuild will be done tomorow. Then I will find out just how "unfriendly" the clutch is going to be....

you can drive mine, when I get the trans swap done. All I need is a 25,000$ safety deposit just incase you have an oops

The trans shop guys really know what they are doing. However my job is a low paying one, only 350$ vs. a shop full of the 1000$+ jobs. Its called priority. I have already called the guy 2x to remind him about things. I know I'm getting off cheap so I try to be patient, but really 3.5 weeks?? Some times you gota beat a guy around the head' n shoulders with reason and logic. I dont think that is wise at this moment, as I'm shure I will get my trans back in a pile of parts. Maybe its time for me to take my $$ elsewhere.... Its usually not wise to mix friends and money, as I am finding out...

Give me a call if you want my help. I am still currently waiting for my trans rebuild to be finished. Its only been 3.5 weeks now and I'm about to go "TonyD" on the poor bastards if its not finished by this friday.

Start SMALL, then slowly work your way up the boost. It is going to take time and miles for the engine to brake in. Get an oil cooler installed, always a good idea with a turbo setup.

^^ Good info. never go cheap, there is a reason some parts cost more. Usually a quality "kit" costs around 100$. I paid 135$ for a Kaminari kit.

Yup I know your write up. I even used your info to show the shop how things need to be done. So far this is going to cost me 1200$. christ I can do this, but I have no access to tools. I'm really pissed how shops are telling me that this is some uber complicated process!!! BS!!!! damn easy says I. I do not like relying on other shops for these mods, however I lack tools, major bummer!!!

More delays ;-( I called the trans shop today, and the guy just ordered replacement parts. So I have to wait another week. IF I had the tools I could have had this done already. ya ya I know have patience, but really 2.5 weeks to rebuild a 240sx trans, really????? I still have to mod the cross member, and have the drive shaft cut down. Cant really do that until I get the gear box back into the car. Note to self: when you have the opportunity to buy tools, BUY THEM!!

toggle switch maybe for some type of security system?? fuel pump relay kill?? chase the wires, see where they go. test for possible voltage? too much fuel could be many different issues. AFM not wired correctly. AFM "modified" by PO? stuck injectors?? bad FPR? cold start injector leaking or staying on??

this type of coil will not work with my system. It is a "dumb" coil, I.E. it has no built in IGBT circuitry. the newer COP coils have integrated circuits that can provide internal triggering. This is how the newer ignition units can separate the "signal" from the actual trigger, thus preventing EMI back flow from the unused voltage off the coil.

yes, separated by 120 degrees