280zex

I would buy that, but start with a 5k$ cash offer and go from there. It sounds like you just want to have an occasional cool toy to enjoy, and for that price it looks good. Remember tho that you are going to need to know how to fix issues as they appear, or any shop you goto is gona stick you with a nasty repair price tag Go get it and have many years of Z enjoyment!!

Hey tony I wana see some video of you doing a nosie stop in that new van of yours lucky bugger!!!

don't go all gorilla grip on your wire crimps cant wait to see the finished product, and now that my Z is on the road again we can go for a drive!!!

I'm looking at getting a 90 degree oil filter adapter. I already have an aftermarket oil cooler adapter installed and due to that I have to run a smaller oil filter. My thinking is that I can get a 90 degree oil filter adapter for a mustang and be able to go back to running the larger oil filter. I do have the turbo oil pump, so I should have minimal oil flow issues?? pros/cons???

I used 1 hose clamp and 1 squeeze clamp for insurance at that connection. I wanted to leave the new heater core unmodified.

spent the last 2 days fabricating my own custom heater core system, what an adventure!!!!!!!!!!!!! and now I have heat available via the dash vents

I used the same type AN fittings and nylon braded hose from the bulkhead to the heater core. its over kill i know but I should never again have to deal with leaky hoses!! That also makes for easy removal if i have issues. Yes there is a big hole in the bulk head for the original hvac fresh air. I used some 18guage aluminum scrap to block that off and sealed it with rtv silicon. If that does not hold i will try some JB weld. There is also the a/c water drain hole in the trans tunnel i had to fill with a rubber plug. I found that the new fan flows so much air volume that I gota figure out how to choke back the dash pull vent. Its a bit much!! I may try some air filter material stuffed down the dash vent hose. The bump in the glove box made routing the passenger side dash hose a chore, but I got r done!!!

Ok I got all the new mounts fabricated and the coolant plumbing done! The eletrical connectons were a snap, and thats always nice all I need now is some 3 inch flex hose and a pair of 3 way couplers to reroute the forced air to the defrosters and the dash vents. Im going to stop by lowes tomorow for some pvc parts and flex hose. I decided to get AN fittings and bulkhead mounts for a clean and easy coolant line install. I also had to relocate the fuel rail cooling fan control thermocouple to the t-stat housing. I just need to shorten the wiring and wrap that for a clean, and trouble free wiring setup for the fan control unit. The blower unit comes with a 3 speed switch and its own wire harness, so plug and play!! I do not have a coolant line shut off to the heater core as I dont run the t-stat bypass hose. The blower fan that comes with the new heater core unit flows some serious air and is nice and quiet!! Also I saved 11 lbs of weight going to this new compact unit vs the stock hvac. I would recomend this for those who do not have the original hvac unit, or if you want to shave some weight and still have cabin heat. You will need some good fabrication skills to do this swap, its not as easy as i had originaly thought. Total time for the install was 8 hours. I did not have to drill any holes and was able to scavenge some of the original hvac brackets for mounting. The new unit does come with its own mounting hardware, but i found it much easier to use some of the factory brackets.

Here is a fitment pic. There is plenty of places to attach the new heating system!!

Alright I got my new heater core system!! Now all i need is the fire wall fittings for the coolant lines, and re route the hot air hoses to the dash vents. This will give me defrost and heat to the old ac vents in the dash!!!! Yay heat!!

so once again my heater core went bad. the replacement unit only lasted 6 months before bursting at the seam. I have decided to pull the entire system and getting a 1 piece unit from jegs. I have no need for air conditioning, so my thought is to replumb the dash vents to have heat in the winter!! there are several holes in the fire wall and trans tunnel that I will need to plug, and the big hole for out side air access for the original hvac. what about fresh air access for the new heater core unit you ask?? well there is the floor board fresh air access ports to the wheel wells that I can re-direct to the blower unit. this will allow me to have full heated/non heated air flow to the cabin, depending on what I want. the first pic is the stock hvac unit, the second pic is the jegs unit. I tried to paste a link to jegs , but my net book is not working correctly after an update, sorry ;-(

I did start the vehicle and did not notice any exhaust noises/issues. There is a bit of rust about the rear exhaust muffler and pipe = normal. the trans does not shift correctly and the dealer is having that fixed before resale. also the oil fill cap is missing. waiting for trans fix before I can go for a test drive...

ok so my stupid self purchased a 2005 vw jetta 2.5 POS and its now paid off and HAS TO GO!! I am looking at a 1990 pathfinder se v6 auto trans 4x4. it has 250k with normal interior wear but is clean and never wrecked AFAIK. Im surfing the innerwebz now for known issues with pathfinders but I could use any input from the board members that may have knowledge of said pathfinders. I have found no rust and no leaks that I can see. the only wire harness chop I see is a shitty radio install job. IDK anything about Nissan pathfinder se v6 v6 engines, so VG30?? I know most the things to check, but is there any hidden issues that could bite me in the ass?? AKA the auto 4x4 hubs??

No valve train noise issues, mostly stock components were used because my z is not a race car. I didnt see the need for hi-end components when i am not pushing the engines limits... As for the slight rocker arm to lobe wipe pattern offset, heck if I know?? That answer is for the valve train gurus to post about....

Why change oil brand when obviously the mobil1 works fine?? If there was a lubrication problem, it would have shown up by now.

I dipped my entire 280Z in the drive way. Plasti-dip will peel right off the car as advertised, ONLY if it was sprayed thick enough. The plasti-dip is still really easy to remove even if you screw up during application. Hear-say rumors about these things, BAH-HUMBUG!!! This stuff works!!! Ya just need to read and follow the instructions!! To Domzs: sorry about that spray pump burn out. I read a lot about that issue and got the Grayco HVLP sprayer/gun from Lowes. Works perfect

My Z finally hit 10k miles since the head rebuild, so I decided to give the valve train a check up.. N42, mild port n polish, stock deck height, Delta camshaft regrind on stock F / E30 solid cam, 280deg @ .480 lift measured at the lash pad. #160 lash pads. Stock spray bar. custom ss valves and seats, stock valve springs, guides, re-surfaced rockers from Delta, stock cam gear/chain/guides, cam chain/gear set on #2 hole. Ran 30w dino oil for 500 miles. Re-set rocker arm to lash pad clearance to 0.08 inch, ran another 500 miles on 30w oil. Re-set valve clearance to 0.08 inch on a hot engine, changed oil to Mobil-1 0w30 full synthetic, now at 10,000 miles. Checked the rocker arm to lash pad clearance and found 1 tight valve, #4 exhaust was at 0.07 inch. All others were where I set them, 0.08 inch clearance between the rocker arm to lash pad, with a hot engine. I noticed that the rocker to lobe wipe pattern is slightly off center on a few of the lobes, but only about 0.15 inch. Its not perfect, but I'm ok with that small of an off-set on the wipe patterns...

I just seen this post and offer an apology, as I am the sniper that got r done. I had a friend that had an itch, and wanted a Z convertible. IF this helps, the chop top was FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFRIED. Car stripped for parts, sorry bro ;-(

My friend did, looks good too. However you need to make sure that the prep work is done well, as the plasti-dip will show the flaws easily. Remember that plasti-dip has a very strong chemical smell, so use with good ventilation, and NOT INDOORS!!!

Your patch is on its way. Post some pix when you get'r done!

Here is a pic, the silver spot is a us quarter dollar for size comparison....PM me your address, and I can send it out!

I have a large datsun logo, ment for the back of a suit. I am willing to donate if you wish, if i can find it!

The real fun begins when you find that you have a early production 280z, that still has the left over 260z interior parts!!! My 280Z was produced in 8/1976, however the rear interior hatch (the spare tire cover/deck) area does have the 260z components! doh!! HLS30-330228 produced 8/1976

TonyD is right on about them auctions. Thats how I got my first z for 200$. I was the only bidder, not 1 other person even looked at it!! Seriously make friends with wrecking yards!! I get calls all the time about anything that is datsun, from my friends at the local wrecker yard. Because i have the $$ in hand, i get all the first "heads up" before it makes inside the yard!! Just a little schmoozing on my part, and a little $$

I surf CL alot looking for datsuns. I find alot of times that how its posted that "280z's can fetch as much as 30,000$ on resale, im selling at 12,500" Makes me laugh! I know that some members here, like i have, spend way too damn much $$ on our "babys". I am curious tho, what would a 30,000$ 280z actually look like? Besides an actual collector piece. So like a swaped rb32tt, with AZ-z car coilovers, wilwood big brake on all 4, custom rims, roll cage, optimal guage set up, killer tires, fuel cell, clean paint. My guess would be 25 to 30k? Has any person here actually seen a factory spec, and correct low vin 280z go for 30k$? I never have, but i suppose if $$ was no issue, and the buyer "had" to buy it, then the rules change.