280zex

I live close. If you stil need help this weekend send me a PM with your phone number. If we have to I can "borrow" you some parts, I have an extra dizzy/cap/rotor in the garage somewhere...

ok I droped off the air dam to be rhino lined. 160$ with tax. They will sand/prime and spray 2 layers of black polyurethane rhino liner. It "should" be done and installed this sat.... we shal see..

ok so I got my fiberglass air dam mounted, I also purchased the optional light kit too. I did have to a small bit of triming around the edege of the lip that fits around the fender, just a quick zip with the dremmel and sanding wheel. I plan on getting the airdam rhino lined this weekend, help protect the fiberglass from rock chips n dings. I will post up some pix and the price I paid for those who decide to go this route.

oh yes I do love the 150 deceble air horn, made in Italy. The tank on the right is for the meth/water spray. I got it from MSA, its the 240Z rad over flow bottle kit.

I took off my grill and air dam to do some parts fitting and took a pic to show you how I have things set up so far.... what'cha think?? yes thats a big piece of cardboard blocking off the cold side of the radiator. I mounted the remote oil cooler and fan seperate from the radiator, on the front side of the rad support. However I forgot to make the oil lines easily removable, oops....

Oh man photos please!!!!

Whoa nice work! I never seen your setup before, looks clean. How much methanol you spray??

410$ a piece with shiping is too spendy for me to just bust then chuck in the garbage. I think I'm going to try the rhino lining or Line x(?). Basicly a paint on rubber. Something is better than nothing!!!

OK so I had the MSA type 2 front air dam on my '76 Z. over the years it got beat up prety bad from road debris, small rocks and what not. It looked like it went through a sand blaster, chips and dings all over. Finaly I collected a piece of tractor tire and broke the bottem clean in half. I now have installed the MSA type 3 front air dam, with the optional light kit. I have been looking at a couple of options to help protect the fiberglass from minor rock chip damage. Obviously hitting something as large as a chunk of tire is gona cause major damage.. 3m 1080 carbon vinyl, 2mm thick. Basicly a 1 piece carbon fiber looking sticker to cover the entire air dam. Removable,repairable,replaceable and fairly light/cheap. Lasts about 4 years?? Rhyno liner, heavy but would protect the best, I think?? Perminent but repairable?? Lasts for??? Plasti dip, this is what is used to coat yout plier handles, also removeable/repairable. Light?? lasts for?? Just asking what the forum people have been using to protect your fiberglass air dams with, and possible new ideas.. I'm looking at just sticking with black, I will be painting the car black as well and applying some white vinyl fender striping with the Datsun fender logos.

I cant even get through an intersection when taking off in first with out having to shift, mabe 50feet, then shift to 2nd. IF it is even a little rainy, my Z just spins in first gear. I dont even see boost in first, or if I do it happened way to fast for me to see it. I can to do a 180 drift u-turn from a dead stop, 4kprm and drop the clutch with the wheel turned = snap u-turn spin. If I'm on an uphill intersection and taking off I have to spin the rear tires (nasty clutch dont slip). So its not that the 1st gear is useless, I just have to shift so darn soon.

^^^^ this says it all ^^^^^ reguardless of the hp of your Z, the L28 sounds sexy as hell, can be made powerfull as hell, and drives like a bat outa hell!!

I have a 1983 zx 5 speed and a 3.90 rear diff. I have a t3/to4e 60 trim turbo. first gear is useless, more so in the rain. 60 mph in 5th gear = 3000 rpm. My tires are 225-50x15. A 3.54 rear diff ratio would be way better...

A 600cfm is over kill, but can be tuned to work. your idle may be set too far past the transition slot ( this feeds extra fuel between idle and initial aceleration) and/or your acelerator pump cam may be mis-adjusted or the wrong size. To check if the throttle butterflies are too far past the transition slot, take carb off vehicle,drain fuel,and turn upside down for inspection. There is a small verticle slot in the carb main bores, bout as thick as a business card, mabe 1/8 inch long. This is the transition slot. with the throttle closed, there should be a small exposed spot of this slot BELOW the throttle blades, about the size of a ball point pen. If there is too much slot exposed, you run out of fuel before the main circuit works. You can "trick" the 600 carb into working better by using the green pump cam. This gives you a good volume of accel pump shot early in the throttle, and "mabe?" help with the early stumble?? Whats your timming set at?? Is your carb a vac secondary or mechanical double pumper? Does your carb have adjustable high and low speed air bleeds? Does your carb have adjustable idle feed restrictors? What type of fuel metering blocks does the carb have? What are the main and secondary fuel jet numbers? What is the power valve number? Does your carb have the power valve protection? - little BB and spring installed in the throttle plate, this keeps the power valve from being destroyed when the engine backfires. Get me some info, I can help

I ran the 390 4bbl with vac secondaries for a while. I only had to make 2 changes, 1 the powervalve-I installed a 8.5, 2 the vac secondary spring- I changed to the WHITE spring, makes the back half work sooner. Get a good see thru fuel filter and install before the carb. Adjust your idle and fuel mixture screws when the engine is HOT. Then set your electric choke after the car is COLD(if you have the elect choke). Then go for a nice drive I never had to re-adjust anything on the holley after the initial setup procedures I listed above. Your setup will vary a bit from mine due to your location and altitude. I was using the #52 main jets.. Here is something I posted a while back about the Holley 4bbl setup... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/52977-arazona-zcar-intake-vs-fuel-injection-long-pix/

I'm looking for a fiberglass hood for my 1976 280z. I'm located in Auburn, WA for shipping purposes.

Well I like the carb in every way as apposed to the FI setups I had, however I have converted to a turbo blow thru holley setup now. I will always suggest the AZC intake and holley carb setup, its easy to install and easy to tune, AND gets almost the same fuel milage!!

There are photos floating around here(HBZ), of a supercharger mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay. From what I seen, this allowed for a nice fitment, and the use of the a/c. I THINK?? it was frank280z?? anyways it had 1 serpintine belt driving the whole assembley, a/c, water pump and altinator. The tricky thing I noticed was getting at the spark plugs, the supercharger was right on top of them!! Look for eaton m70 or m90, usualy off a mercedes benz kompressor type, and or ford thunderbird setups, mabe boniville???? too?? Unfortunately I deleted all my info and designs I downloaded for this type of setup, however most info I got was found SEARCHING around on Hybrid Z... I can tell you tho, it is possible, and it has been done, you just gota search, search, GOOGLE SEARCH!!!

I want them rims!!!!! must have'em, I mean realy they are perfect for any Z!!

Finaly got the z back together. Added a new aluminum radiator, remote oil cooler, and a methanol spray kit. super tasty!!

here is the finished product!!

wooo hoooo, it runs again!! I ended up doing a bunch of "other mods" while I was rebuilding my engine. I installed a new aluminum radiator, a remote oil cooler, and a methanol spray kit. Also while I was there I decided to clean up my wire harness again. I fabbed a whole new oil cooler/fan brackets setup, making this a seperate assembley from the radiator. I also got some aluminum tape and closed off any open holes in the rad support area. Unfortunately I descovered that my special corteco head gasket doesnt match the water jackets on the F54 turbo block. So I just picked up a felpro HG, for the turbo block from Orileys for 20$.

Just got finished fabing new radiator and oil cooler mounts. Also welded in the bracket for the alcohol spray pump. Cleaned up the wiring while I was there.

For those of you who like to install the oil pan BEFORE the front engine cover during a rebuild, DONT!! Why you ask? IF the harmonic balancer key falls off during installation, its alot easier to retreve the key if the oil pan is NOT installed. After the front is assembled, then install the oil pan

ok so here is the rest of the story. My friend at the portland shop found out what happened. The rods were installed backwards!! This explains the bad lubrication issue. So I got a new bottom end rebuild for free, new pistons, new rods, everything!! Other than a bottom rebuild, I'm only out the time its going to take for re-assembley, no money out of my pocket!! I should be running by this weekend

ok I got the bottom end back together. The air craft gasket sealent is being a PITA to remove from the front cover!! Should be running by this weekend!! @Devil_s30, The motorcycle I got is fun to ride for shure!