denny411

For my 1500.00 paint job,the car was stripped to bare metal, all rust was cut out with new metal welded in,smoothed the rear valance,shaved the marker lights,installed a fiberglass air dam, and painted the 3 pice spoiler separately. The car was finished in base clear and still looks good. BTW...I did have all of the trim,mouldings,lights,bumpers,grill removed when I dropped it off. It helped to give him a wide open time frame. He worked on it in between other jobs.

I`m not looking for stimulation, just more curious than anything. Kinda like rubber necking when you pass a car wreck. I`ve been curious about the Tommy Lee/Pamela Anderson video too,but have never seen it either. I agree completely with your comments on fashion. There are way too many sheep out there willing to follow the leader over a cliff.

Personally, I`m waiting to see the new Paris Hilton video.

I noticed the same thing a while back, and just figured he left on his own. He left somewhere around the time when the new rule changes were made. It may have something to do with the ALL NISSAN crap that was floating around. It seemed odd that only part of his posts were deleted. I`ve never noticed any other deleted posts when a member has been banned, so I thooght he may have deleted them himself efore he left.

This was discussed awhile back. From what I remember.. They never came stock on the s30 but were offered as a custom option by an aftermarket shop.

Take a look in the engine specs section of your chiltons/haynes manual. The main and rod journal diameters should be listed there. If you don`t have a good micrometer or caliper set, you might want to take the crank to a local machine shop to have it checked. Diameter is ONLY one of several checks that need to be made. 1) jounal diameter 2)taper (from side to side) 3)out of round (should be checked at three different degrees of rotation,IMO) 4) fingernail, Drag your fingernail across(side to side) the jounal. If you feel any roughness, the crank will need to be polished or possibly turned.

I`m not really in to flaming, but if this story IS true... the person that suggested to run sand through the intake should never be allowed to touch a car again.Much less work on one.

At least yours has paint on it. Mine has been sitting on the sidelines for awhile now. I can`t wait to get back to wrenching and welding on it.

I`ve had similiar problems with other makes of cars/trucks. More often than not, it turns out to be an ignition problem. Usually the module, and occasionally the coil.

Aren`t lifts NICE? I absolutely LOVE working with mine. They save so much time vs, having to get up and down, and crawling in and out from under the car. The only problem I`ve had, Is that I`ve spent more time building and buying tools to go/work with the lift, than I`ve actually spent using the lift.

This is where I bought my 3.5" bends from, http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/product.htm

BTW... Why were YOU looking for beanie babies? Do you have another hobby that we don`t know about?

I personally don`t recomend trying to haggle over the price of a paint job. If you beat someone down on their price, and they feel like they are spending too much time on the car. They will start to cut corners. The price sounds fair from a private individual, but very cheap for a "proffessional" body shop. I`ve had some pretty nice paint jobs (with body work) done for less than 1500.00 but they were by a personall friend and I NEVER question his price. I`m always sure to tell him to let me know if he runs in to any unforeseen problems. If/when he does, I`m quick to throw him a few extra bucks for his trouble. This keeps him happy, and he`s more willing to go the extra mile for me.

If you look at the profile view of the carb/intake, you can see that the nuts on the carb mount studs are loose. Obviously he removed the carb and intake separately, and put them back together for the pics. I think when he says "just as removed from the car" he means that he has not cleaned or refurbished the pieces.

My reaction may have something to do with being a father. It really disheartens me to think that those are someones children, and at the time the pics were taken, their parents had no idea that they would never see them again. I have one son,a daughter,and another girl on the way. My only hope is to teach them to be more responsible than I suspect the rider of this bike was, and to not ride with anyone that would be so reckless.

I usually have a pretty strong stomach, so I really discounted the warning. I have no problems with death or seeing dead bodies, but the carnage in these pics is so gruesome and way more than I expected to see.

Some momentary lag or hesitation is normal from a Quadrajet. It`s just the nature of the vacume secondaries. If your cam has too much duration or valve overlap it could intensify this condition. At wide open throttle, manifold vacume drops to zero. As engine rpm`s increase, vacume rises and pulls the secondaries open. Have you tried driving the car yet, or are you just free reving it? They usually work better when driving than they do free reving. With a load on the engine, it is much easier for manifold vacume to keep up with engine rpm.

The memory of these pics is somthing I really wish I could erase.

I`m using the R230 from a Q45. The standard ratio is 3.55. If you look in my personal album you can see some pics of my swap and adaptors.

That would be sweet as a hovercraft.

No personal experience YET, but I have considered a swap of that setup for a kit car after the Z is finished.

It looks like a cross between a 280z and an MGB. Very nice IMO.

If you don`t have a pcv system, Do you have some other sort of crankcase vent? IF NOT, You could be pressurizing the crankcase and forcing oil past the seals in the turbo. If this is the case, the problem should be addressed asap before it starts blowing out other seals. (ie, rear main, front cover)

That has to be one of the funniest vid`s I`ve ever seen. I saved it for my wife to watch later.