denny411

Make sure you have the later trans with the 30 spline input shaft. The 27 spline shafts are quite a bit weaker. Another weak point is the sunshell. There are several guys on ebay selling rebuilt HP 700R4`s with all the goodies, including the "BEAST" or other hardened sunshells. With warrantee for around 700.00

Mike, i think you need to slow down and take a little more relaxed approach to your car. There is usually an easy way to do everything if you just sit back, relax, and look at it from a different point of view. As for the stands tipping, I suggest getting a set of four, 6 ton stands. they have a much wider base which makes them less likely to tip. Maybe you could wear a full face helmet to protect your glasses,(and your melon)

BTW... Be sure not to depress the bedal more than an inch or so while bench bleeding the mc. It could damage the seals.

It sounds like the perfect time to invest in some good leather gloves with a long cuff on them. I have an extra pair of welding gloves for just this reason. I`m glad to hear things turned out relatively well for you. I`ve got quite a few battle scars myself and know all too well that things could always be worse.

If you are using a combination wrench,(one open and one closed end) try puting the closed end on the nut/bolt and interlocking the closed end of anothe wrench to the open end of the othe wrench. This will give you more leverage and shold help to loosen the bolt. You could also try putting the other bolts back in and snugging them up. Sometimes this will help to relieve some of the pressure on the bolt you are having trouble with. If all else fails,you could take a couple months off while you go to the gym to BEEF UP.

I printed a copy of the pic. I`m going to post it on the public classified board at Wal Mart.

If you look in my personal gallery, I have a couple pics of my frame ties. I simply cut the existing frame rail and fit 3/16" wall 1.5"x2.5" tubing inside and welded completely around the ends and along both side. They are extended just past the firewall, and angle upward to meet the rear suspension. BTW... My design requires no floor modifications that can`t be performed with a hammer.

Here`s my .02 I`ve been watching your posts for a while now, and have come to the opinion that you are trying to do too much too fast. You have been buying parts of all sorts at a frantic pace, not even taking the time to install what you`ve bought before ordering more. It seems to me that you are trying to accomplish in a few months time what most of us have yet to complete after years of haveing our Z projects. You need to step back and take a breather from the project,but don`t have time because you are leaving for texas in a few weeks or so. This is a very bad situation to be in, because your stress level will only get higher as your deadline approaches. This will most likely cause you to either, take shortcuts, or possibly overlook some detail that could cause some sort of premature failure. (hopefully not on your trip) I would be very reluctant to ake such a long trek in a car so soon after hastilly putting it together. might I suggest trailering the car to texas and finishing it when you are in a better frame of mind? I think you are taking the fun out of the project. I too was guilty of this just recently, and had to step back and take a braether. Luckily i don`t have to have the car for anything other than pleasure cruises.

Obviously, you found the info that you needed somewhere, and apparently it wasn`t in this thread. We are not saying that you have to list ALL of the places that you haven`t found what you`re looking for,but it should be made clear that you have searched.(at least a little) The reason for pointing you to the Rules page was because you are a new member with only one prior post. As of late we have been inundated with questions from newbies that have been asked numerous times. This is a free website operated on a free will donation basis. If you don`t like the rules, then your unwelcome feeling is justified, but if you are willing to follow the rules set down by the site administrators and moderators then, Welcome aboard,

Sure...But you`ll have to come to Ohio to pick it up .

Tim240z`s answer is EXACTLY CORRECT. If you had used the search funtion, you may have found that same information in your search. We are not here to spoon feed you the information. Especially if the topic has already been beat to death. Your question should have read... I have used the search funtion but have found little or no information on what radiator would be usefull for my current needs as well as with my planned engine swap.

Is it the passenger door glass,or the quarter glass that you need? BTW... I have both from a 75 2 seater.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAAHHHAHAHHA HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA

Why did it take so long for the garage to complete the conversion? It seems to me that half of that time should have been sufficient.

I would love to build a car for the Silverstate challenge,but this car will be more street/strip.

Aren`t most electric water pumps for race only applications? I would be scared to get too far from home since they are usually for track use only.

Thanks for the advice. I hope I never need it, but as rough as my kids play it could easily happen.

If the outer bushing was smooth and the new bearing intalled straight and true then It should be ok. I was under the assumption that the piece that wouldn`t come out was part of the outer race, or an actuall contact or wear point.

I would buy a cheap truck, rent a tow dolly for 1 way, Pack the datsun full of whatever you don`t want to get wet, put all the big stuff in the back of the truck, then resell the truck when you get there.

The piece left in the crank is the outer bearing race. The possibility of putting the old pieces back in and using it are SLIM and NONE. You have to get that piece out. I made my own tool for my slide hammer to hook the inside of the race. I used a grade 8 fine thread bolt and ground it down on the bench grinder. It works really well and doesn`t slip like the ones that come with thepuller kits. I would also like to suggest heating it with a torch, then tap on it with a hammer. Then reheat it, and quench it with a steady flow of cold water. This will cause the race to contract very quickly which will help to break loose any rust or corrosion. It will also draw some of the water between the pieces which will help to lubricate tthe parts for removal.

There is no such thing as CAN`T. With the right tools and fabrication skills. Not to mention CASH. Anything can be done. If I had the spare cash, I would love to build a V10 Viper/Z hybrid. I`m sure that many of us here have 5-6k in our v8`s. What`s a few more for couple extra cylinders?

I think everyone needs a hobby and some time to themself(without the family).That doesn`t mean you have to spend every extra minute in the garage like I do. You should scale back on how much time you spend with the ZX and save the cash that you would be forking out on car payments and insurance. in short...I think you should keep the Z. Just think of the depreciation of a NEW car. The loss in the first year alone will be nearly as much as the conversion for the Z. Try working on the Z two weeknights for a few hours, and one day on the weekend, and use the cash you save by not haveing a new car payment to do something extra nice with the wife and kids one weekend a month. WIN WIN

The SX and thZ are both unitized bodies,which means they have no frame. Which means the body and frame are intregal pieces of formed and bent sheet metal that gives the body it`s strength without the added weight of a separate thicker guage steel frame/chassis.

The end result will be eligability for whatever social programs are offered in that particular state. (medical,welfare,disability,education) I`m all for taking care of your problems at home, before you go to your neighbors to fix his. Why should we allow our neighbors to sneak into our house and then expect us to feed and clothe them when we find them hiding in the basement.

Where are you located? The price seems a bit pricey for what you get. I "think" you could get better prices from MSA, but I don`t have a catalog in front of me to say for sure. Do a search for "body kits" or "air dam". I`m sure numerous options will come up. This is a subject that has been discussed at length many times.