denny411

I haven`t personally done this, but didn`t some of the later 240sx`s and such have cv axles with r180`s. If so... You could possibly have some halfshafts from one of these cars shortened/lengthened and adapt them to the Z.

Do you think the problem was caused by using two inner cv`s? My adaptors allow me to use the inner and outer cv`s in there original position. I`ll keep you all(ya`ll for the southerners)posted on how they work out. I`m also wondering if your shafts could be too short.

I hadn`t realized we were having such a big problem with this. I guess I should pop in on some of the other threads more often to see what`s going on in other circles. I agree that we should hold ourselves to a higher standard than the "other" boards. I think it`s what makes our hobby and community so appealing to those that are interested in cars and Z`s more specifically. Keep up the good police work guys.

Thanks for the info. That helps me out quite a bit. By removing the spacer, I will be able to gain more clearance between the master cylinder and fenderwell headers. i will still use a heat shield, but I won`t have near the concerns about heat sinking the MC.

The LSD R200 is the only bolt in swap you will find. It`s pretty much a sunday afternoon job. The R230 is a pretty intensive and complicated swap if you don`t have the right tools and some fabrication experience. It also costs quite a bit more. I`ll have close to 900.00 in my swap when it`s finished, + more than 10 to 15 hrs of fabrication work involved. The stock R200 with U-joint halfshaft should hold up pretty well under approx 350 RWHP.

what problems,if any would there be with just swapping the master cylinder and not the booster? I`m planning to do this swap soon myself.

Even if you can`t use it as your project, you could still take it and part it out. You might be able to make a few bucks to put towards another car. I`ve noticed that when i have a certain type of car at the house,other people with that same type of car comeout of the woodwork. It might open a few doors.

The supercharged Bonneville SSE 3.8 will bolt to the RWD 700R4 V6 transmission, from 2.8 v6 camaro,firebird and s10`s. I guess this is a popular swap among the street rod crowd.

I`m very suspicious of the mechanic performiing the work. He may be trying to pull the wool over your eyes. The "POP" sounds more like you may have had a rocker arm come loose and/or a pushrod,allowing a lifter to come out of it`s bore. I would double check ALL of the parts that the mechanic says were faulty. If the timing cover is undamaged, he`s feeding you a load of crap. I know I shouldn`t overgeneralize, but I`ve had "mechanics" try to pull crap on me in the past. They weren`t aware that I knew more about cars than they apparently did. I just didn`t have time to do the work myself.

http://hybridz.jimzdat.com/forum/

You could ask your mom what price range she is considering, then throw in a few bucks to upgrade to an even nicer camera.

I just installed a two post above ground lift in my garage. it really wasn`t hard, and I think it would be pretty easy to take down and move. But, you could just buy another one for your new house. Just think how easy your house would be to sell with a lift already installed. and, you`ll be the envy of every guy in the neighborhood.

When i stripped my hood and whale tail I didn`t wear any gloves. It made more of a mess of my hands than anything. (I have unusually thick calluses on my hands) But I was using fiberglass safe stripper which may not be as harsh as aircraft stripper.

Thanks for the help. I may try to find a shaft that can be redrilled. maybe even an aluminun one.

That`s the same paint that i plan to use. I`m glad to hear it worked so well.

I bought the car stricktly as a parts car. It is rusted way beyond any hope of repair. Not even Fred Flintstone would want to drive it. The car does have some high demand parts for the purists, and good drivetrain parts.

I do know that it IS an E31 head. could someone check to see what year the car is by the vin# ?(HLS30 133898)

The vin# from the firewall is, HLS30 133898

I checked this morning and the vin plate from the door jam was removed as well as the dash vin plate. I`m going to assume that it is a 72 because the vin# on the firewall is 21000 less than a 73 240 that I bought a few years ago I bought the car this morning so nearly everything(other than body parts) is available. I suppose it`s time to move my post to the buy/sell forum, and start pricing things for sale. Thanks for the help guys.

I looked but did not see any tag on the drivers door or door jamb. The car also has the original am/fm radio still in place. i`ll check tomorrow to see if it still works. I`m planning to buy the car to part out. it is rusted WAY beyond repair.

This head may have been installed on a later 240 then. What is a good way to tell what year a 240 is when you don`t have the title? The car has a wierd looking console. No ashtray or storage tray in it, and it has a chocke lever where the ashtray would normally be. The car also has a factory wooden steering wheel. I assume it`s not a 70 because there are no vents in the hatch and it has the round "Z" sail panel vents, but the front bumper brackets look similiar to the ones I removed from a 73.

What year of 240 did the e31 originally come on? and what would be a fair price to pay for a stock used e31 that may or may not need rebuilt?(haven`t heard the car run)

Does anyone here know if there are any differences in the R230 rear flange from one year to the next? Are the bolt patterns all the same for all Q45`s or R230`s? I assume there are some differences in the driveshafts themselves since they supposedly won`t all interchange according to Hollander. I need to get a driveshaft asap to have cut down for my conversion, but I`m not sure what year the diff that I have is. I`m going to have one heck of a time figuring this out. None of the salvage yards in my area have any q45`s, so I can`t just take the diff in to see if they jive up.

I could use this info too. I bought a set from another member that did not have the instruction sheet.

Keep the $5 for the sbc fund. I hope you get the rest figured out soon. BTW, I suggest you get a fuel filter asap. If you have any loose rust or scale in the tank, it wouldn`t take long driving the car for some to make it`s way to your injectors. It`s next to impossible to clean rust from injectors. They would be much easier to just replace.