denny411

With the rust problems that we have up north, it would be possible to power the car in a similiar fashon from the drivers seat . Fred Flintstone style.

Look at pparaska`s website. He has some really good info and pics on how he did his. Mine are similiar but don`t require cutting the floor out to install them. I`ve got pics and a scanner but just haven`t taken the time to post them yet.

Doesn`t a full frame add weight? I mean, the whole idea behind the HybridZ is light/little car, with a big engine. adding a full frame would only add more weight. In a perfect world rust would not exist period. I guess that`s one of the drawbacks with our choice of project platform. IMO, adding a full frame would be overkill. There have been several hybridz`s running in the 9`s with just frame ties,roll cages or both. Think lightweight.

I would recommend using aircraft paint stripper. to get the majority of the paint off. You could use the scotch wheels to get the stubborn stuff, but it would take forever to do the whole car. not to mention cost more money. Paint stripper will not ruin the metal. You just have to rinse with water to neutralize the stripper when you are finished. As far as primer, I would also suggest getting a cheap air paint gun and buying a gallon of automotive primer with activator or hardener. In the end I think you will spend alot less time and money on the car. It takes alot of rattle cans to paint a car. and most of them are not compatable with true automotive finishes, so it would have to be stripped again. I personally would hate to spend all of that time stipping the car down just to put on more paint that is going to need stripped. If you use true automotive primer, you will be that much closer to you final objective. Not to mention, if you get a good sand and fill primer, you will be able to block and sand the car to get that much better of an end result. You also might find out that you really like painting with a professional style gut and decide to do the final color coat yourself.

Looks pretty good, Especially for a "shed" paint job. I personally couldn`t get away with painting in my own garage. Our local city counsel members are a bunch of pricks. I really like the tailights too. Those would look sweet on my car.

Most reputable automotive paint stores will mix the metallics for you. I was discussing this last week with a friend that does this for a living. He says that they have to add clear to the base coat with metalics or pearl to get it to show up. He also says that one of the side effects of this is that the paint will not cover as well.It is supposedly worst with reds.

When I was in tech school I saw similiar accident. A fellow student was useing a 1/2" drive beam type torque wrench on his lug nuts. The wrench was straight up and he was pulling towads him. The socket popped of and he hit himself square in the forehead with the end of the plastic handle. It left a bruise that was the perfect circular outline of the end of the plastic handle. As our instructor helped him from the floor he said to the student, "I`ll bet you never do that again"

Tom. Welcome to the board. I`m not personally knowledgable on the LS1, but from your description the 240 sounds like a fair deal. P.S. on behalf of myself and my family, I would like to say thank you to you and all of your fellow service members for what you have done, and continue to do. Keep your chin up, and your head down. Denny

The metallics must be applied with paint or clear coat. They can`t just be applied over existing paint. As far as I know, you will have to repaint the entire car to do this since it`s not recommended to apply clear over standard single stage paint. Also, I`m not too sure how it would turn out with the metalics in the clear. I think the result would be much nicer with them in the base coat.

That is very similiar to mine.

I would have to say NO. I don`t mind seeing an occasional pic or post of women or jokes/comments about women, but this is not really the place for a specific forum on the subject. It would be way to easy to get out of hand,or to go overboard. Not to mention distracting us from what we are really all about.

That`s funny. He`s not wearing a thong though. It looks more like a sumo wrap.

Where are you located? I`ve got on that I`m looking to sell. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21764&highlight=

I personally prefer beaver

Cool, keep me posted.

I`ve been working at leaste 18 hrs a day on the Z. I`m putting on a real push to get it done in the next 4 to 5 weeks. I hope to have time to work some bugs out before the heartland Z meet in august. My side pipes and burn guards are about 90% complete. The motor plate is finished, as well as the r230 mounts. Moser Eng, will have my axles finished monday so I can complete the r230 swap. I still need to find a q45 driveshaft. The toyota brake conversion should be finished sometime monday, and by next friday I hope to have the car in primer. I`m waiting for the seats before I attempt to install the roll cage. I should have them by next weekend too. Luckily my wife is off of work for a while so I can work nearly 24 hrs a day on the car I`ve been sleeping less than 4 hrs a day for over a week now and I`m really starting to make progress. if I wasn`t going to swap out cams,(and possibly heads) I think I could have the car drivable in less than two weeks. I guess if I run into any snags I could always show up with the car in primer.

Welcome. I`m sure we can find plenty of ways for you to spend a pile of cash on your car.

I got it fixed. Apparently my 3 yr old was messing with my pc while I was in the garage. He somehow reset my outlook express to hide all read posts. I have never used that setting so it scared the hell out of me when everything went blank. I do have norton(due soonfor renewal)that has done very well at stopping virus`s. I was scared that it had expired and one got thru. Thanks for the input though.

If anyone here has emailed me or is dealing with me on some parts. Please return a messege to me with as many of the previous emails attached. I was viewing my inbox this morning and the whole thing went blank. it looks like it was deleted. i may have gotten some type of virus this morning. I did get an email this morning that seemed strange from Spirit, i think it was titled something funny? or interesting pics? I`m not really sure,about the subject title but i am sure about the authors name. Just giving a heads up to anyone else that might recieve the same email. I will try later today to go thru my sent box to figure out what/who i owe money or parts to. Please forward any replies to my hotmail account until I get this figured out. Does anyone have an idea what might have happened? If I go to my local folders in outlook express, it reads that i have 0 unread and 156 total, but nothing shows up when I go to my inbox.

HHrrmm Might as well put in 20 fistfulls and gain 100 hp. Seriously, I doubt it. I have heard that a few mothballs in the fuel will help to boost octane. I`m not sure if it`s true or not but the only way it could help (even if it does boost octane) would be if you have high compression and are experiencing detonation or spark knock.

I personally use dot 3. I`ve heard of some people using dot 4 but it is usually required only in European cars. if you do switch to dot 4, be sure that you have all traces of dot 3 removed from the system. They are NOT compatable.

Someone sitting up all night wondering if there really is a doG

You should also be sure that your heads and block are clean and free of any traces of old gasket material. Also be sure that you are using a good quality torque wrench and following the proper torque sequence. Also be sure to use teflon thread sealant on your head bolt threads.

if you look in your overhaul manual, there should be a torque spec for the harmonic balancer. If you tighten it to proper specs there should be no reason to back it off. Overtightening the bolt will only cause problems if you tighten it so much that you strip the threads, or possibly stretch the bolt. If the bolt is strectched, I would strongly recommend changing it before it fatigues and snaps. Until you have some experience in engine building,I would suggest always looking in the book for proper torque specs. nearly every nut and bolt on an engine has a torque spec that should be followed. Rod and main bolts as well as head bolts and cam gear bolts MUST ALWAYS be tightend to proper torque as well as in the proper sequence. Some of the less critical components you can go by how tight it feels but only after you`ve had some wrenching experience.

How about an mid to early 70`s AMC matador? they have a kind of reptilish look to them with the big round headlights and are low,fat and long.