denny411

Anyone that knows me or has seen my garage, knows that I am a TOOLAHOLIC. I buy tools that I don`t even need, Just for someday I might.... Check your local paper and the classified papers that you can pick up in gass stations. There are plenty of people out there in bad situations willing to unload quality tools for cheap. Also, look for tool auctions.Plenty of people retire,go bankrupt or get divorced and have to liquidate their auto shops. I once bought nearly 10,000 worth of tools and parts at one sale for around 1400 Most were Snap-on or Mac. I sold off the parts and recovered most of what I spent.

If he really thinks his car ran 10.6`s-1/4, He needs to spend more cash on the car and less on the CRACK he must have been smoking at the time.

For that price I would definately have it professionally bored. The going rate in my area is 20.00 a hole.

Summit has rods that have been resized,stress relieved and have arp rod bolts installed. You should always have the rotating assy balanced, regardless of how closely match the componets are beforhand.

I personally like the satisfaction of building it myself. I feel this way about most everything, even non-car related stuff.

I have quite a bit of stuff packed away in my garage that could be used for the same purpose.

I guess I moved too soon and missed all the fun. A few years after our last Ohio quake, I was awakened by what I THOUGHT was another earthquake. It turned out to be a propane explosion about 6 miles away. It seems this old farmer, (about 90yrs old) got up in the night to answer the call of nature. When he flushed his toilet it caused a spark in his well pump that was in his basement. The spark ignited a propane leak at his furnace, and completely dissintegrated his house,him and everything in it.

We had on in NW Ohio about 17 yrs ago. it felt like someone hit our house with a truck. It hit around 5am as well.

BTW,Remove your caps lock.

I hadn`t realy considered that, but the way the design looks so far, It wouldn`t be all that hard to cut the weld and clean it up with a grinder to reattach to the new cv. I guess It might be a good idea to find a way to rebuild the outer cv. They are supposed to be permanently assembled. Thanks for the input, I`ll look into it further.

By better lines I mean the sleak look of the s30(pre 79) is more appealing than the s31(post78) models. JMO The 240 is quite a bit lighter than the 280, but the body isn`t as rigid.

Tims require four inner cv joints. I`m having some made this week that only require shortening the shafts and welding the adaptor to the outer cv that has had the spindle removed. I will post pics in the buy/sell forum as soon as I get the adaptors back.

My only concern with Owens measurement is that he is using two inner cv`s. Where I will be using one of each. The shaft penetrates into the inner cv further than it does in the outer cv. The outer cv joint is shallower than the inner. That makes me think that the shaft would need to be slightly longer. I like the idea of the longer shaft. It should reduce stress under load and also help with vibration. Cv boots may last longer as well.

If someone comes up with an accurate length, Please post asap. I hope to go to moser sometime in the next few weeks. If it rains and I don`t have to be in the fields.

Have you been watching "chips" reruns? I saw a show a few months ago that tests urban legends. They mounted a couple rockets on the top of a 65 impala and lauched it to 200+ on a dry lake bed. The biggest thing they emphasized was the illegality of using them on the street and the amount of permits and paperwork involved just to aquire the rockets to begin with. not to mention they are single use.

If my wife comments about me checking out pics like this, I just tell her "I`m married NOT gay"

I just found this out myself. I will probably talk to Moser eng, in the next few weeks about making some. If we can come up with a standard dimension, we might be able to negotiate a group buy to save a few bucks. I`m only an hour away from them so I can deal with them in person. Let me know if you or anyone else is interested. I`m going to talk to them about heavier duty stub axles and companion flanges as well. A friend of mine that is a machinist, Is taking your idea and trying to expand on it a bit. I should know in a few days how it`s going. He`s trying to add the little ring that centers the halfshaft flange to the companion flange. This should eliminate any possibility of runout to keep vibration to a minimum.

You must have pissed someone off.

I`m doing side pipes. I`ll post some pics in a few weeks after all of my pieces are in.

My preference has always been for the 78 and earlier Z cars. IMO they have much better lines. If you have strict emission laws in your area, and you plan to do mechanical mods down the road. I would suggest buying an early 240z because it will be smog exempt sooner if not already exempt.

I would still have to say the strap, or possibly the mustache bar bushings. It`s obviously movving around. just check every mount point and bushing.

This guys really gonna kick himself when i tell him he didn`t have to mill out his flywheel.

I know everyones taste is different, but with the right paint scheme and wheel/tire combo, I think it could look pretty sweet with the kit. It looks like it was painted with flat black spray bombs. Almost any paint that shines would make it look better than it does now.

I`ve got a CAT3208 that I`m reasonably sure could NOT be swapped into a Z.

The output shaft is shorter for the 4x4. it can be changed to the longer 2wd shaft, but it`s nearly the last part that you take out and you have to go through the pump end.