denny411

I might be able to get some pics of my Q45 front mount. just remember i built it for strength NOT style. I haven`t done any finish grinding or radiused any corners yet. I can`t remember how long it`s been since I built it. 2 or 3 years maybe? I do remember that cv joint/bolt clearance with the control arm was an issue,but i resolved that with a grinder. This is another reason i had the spring off the strut. It was easy to check for interferance. i would rotate the diff while moving the control arm through it`s full range of motion. This insures that nothing will make contact in real world driving situations.

BTW Null, You should soon be able to see the msa bumpers that I bought from you about 4 years ago. It will be nice having this car together. Not only will it be fun to drive, but it will clear up alot of space in my shop.

COOL, Yes, I basically need everything from the spring up. The bushing has the three studs on it that attach to the strut tower, and the gland nut on top of the strut holds the bushing on top of the spring. mine were in excellent condition until I removed the spring to measure strut travel and to doublecheck halfshaft interferance for the Q45 swap. I made the mistake of moving the car without the spring in place, and it tore the bushing. let me know if you find one and how much $ for the part and shipping to 45895 Thanks,Denny

Wel I`ve been making great strides in the completion of the Z. I finished bonding the rear bumper last night and I`m happy to say that it easily supports my body weight (220lbs). My body guy is confident that we will have the car in primer by the middle of next week, but i still have to shave the rest of the drivers side drip rail. I will finish the head porting and engine assembly at approx, the same time, and should have the struts sectioned by the end of this weekend. All I really need now is a rear top strut bushing to finish the Q45 diff,CV swap. So if anyone has a spare please let me know. I`ve still got some work to do painting the engine bay with idustrial imron, before i can set the engine and trans in for final driveshaft measurement. I need to have the car running and to the track to win a 200.00 bet with a buddy of mine. last spring he bet that i wouldn`t have the car to the track this year. Well the season for Ohio ends in three weeks, buthe didn`t say what state I had to run in. I plan to take the car to one of the tracks in kentucky that run thru the last week in Nov. If i run into some unforseen problem I may have to go further south, but would really like to wait for SEZ8 to go that far. I most likely won`t have the finish paint on or the interior finished before i run it, but he didn`t say the car had to be show ready. it just has to run down the track "this year" Again, if someone has a spare strut bushing please let me know asap. I can get one from a salvage yard but they won`t split an assemled stut, and shipping would cost quite a bit more. and i only need a small part of it. I`ll try to get some progress pics posted sometime tomorrow. For now i`m off to the farm to get the combine ready to go for when the ground dries out.

They do sell both gasket types. One with the thick front and one thin. I`ve used them both several times and love them. CORK SUCKS!!!!

It looks to me as if they have been gasket matched, but not actually ported. Small gains can be made doing this, but maybe the previous owner wasn`t knowledgable enough or brave enough to attempt a full on port job. I`m almost finished porting one of my heads. It is very time consuming as well as nerve wracking.

I built my own wood burner out of an old fuel tank. it stands 4' high and is 5.5' from front to rear. I put it in the rear corner of the shop and use an old furnace fan to move the hot air. I made the door large enough that I can burn pieces as large as 14"dia, and 5' long. If I stuff it full and adjust the air intake properly, it will burn for two days without reloading, and keep my 1800sq ft garage in the low 80`s when it`s in the 10`s outside. The best part is that I cut wood at the farm for free.

Q,What do you get when you cross the Pilsbury Dough Boy with Raggety Ann? A, An UGLY red head with a yeast infection.

My aunt brought some of that "CRAP" to the family reunion this summer. It was kind of funny to see, but unless you`re 10 or younger the stuff could put you into a diabetic coma.

Just be very carefull buying and/or selling real estate right now. I was watching a market analyst from forbes on Glenn Beck last night. He is predicting a major decline in the housing bubble. The hardest hit areas will be coastal regions and suburbs of larger cities where the market has been artificially inflated in recent years. If you currently live in an inflated region, and are considering a move to a more rural area. You may want to sell high now and rent temporarily to see what the market does in the regions that you are most interested in. An interesting FAQ. In the state of california, there is one real estate agent for every 50 residents of the entire state. Also, Apparently there is a record number of unsold NEW homes on the market. I think the number was between 1.5 and 2 million for this quarter. If you have the patience to wait it out, you might be able to save some serious cash in the coming years. It is expected to be 5 years or so before prices start to come back to more appropriate levels.

I`ve seen alot of nice mods in this thread. I guess what will set mine apart is the complete combination of... 3 1/2" side pipes, Fenderwell headers w/ 1 3/4" primaries, Fiberglass cowl hood, Msa fiberglass bumpers, Whale tail spoiler, Shaved drip rails,sail panel vents,marker lights, and emblems, Blended the headlight buckets to the fenders, Welded and blended the inspection lids,and fuel filler door, 78 z28 heat extractor vents installed the front fenders, 1 1/2"x2 1/2"x 3/16" frame ties, 10 point s&w roll cage, Toyota 4 piston brake upgrade, M&H Racemasters, Urethane adhesive used to flush mount the windshield and hatch glass, My Q45 diff install uses welded adaptors designed to mate Q45 "outer" cv`s to the s30 companion flange, mazda miata front seats, 383 sbc,Eagle rods/crank, steel 4 bolt main caps with main stud kit, gear drive, moroso wide oil pan with screens and scraper, fluid damper, fully ported and polished sportsmanII heads with head studs, 1.6 full roller rockers, crower .600 lift solid roller cam and lifters, tall edelbrock Victor jr intake, aluminum water pump, msd distributor and spark box, Holley electric fuel pump, Griffin radiator, 750 holley, 150 shot of nitrous. I`m also using a front motor plate instead of traditional mounts, and will have a fully functioning air conditioner and stereo sytem.

I plan to use the imron on farm equipement and several semi trailers that I`m using as storage units. Although I`ve heard that the 192s activator is going for 100.00qt, which tempts me to sell it. Most of the Durethane will be used for simliliar purposes, but the silver looks too nice to spray a cultivator or disc. I also plan to use some of the industrial imron to paint the engine bay. much of the DP 40 will be traded off as partial labor to the guys that are helping me do the body work on the car. For what I`ve got in the whole lot, I couldn`t have bought enough primer to put three coats on my Z.

furious, What generation of Z do you plan to build? I`m in wapak, and am building a 75 with 383, 400turbo, 3500stall, R230diff, and 3.5" sidepipes. Denny

michael, I think the problem with the membership in ohio is the rust belt. Unless you moved to the area with a Z in tow,found one down south as I did, or found an awsome deal on Ebay, you most likely won`t find one here worth rebuilding. BTW...I am VERY interested in having another Z meet in Ohio. Right now I`m putting in some long hours to get my Z running this fall, and hope to have it show/race ready for the southeast Z shootout in the spring. If any other members are interested, please respond to this thread to see what we can work out.

Dave, I will papal 20.00 to you later this evening. BTW, I still need a top rear strut mount for my 75 280. If anyone has one please let me know asap. I posted this request in the classifieds,but I`m not sure how many people check them regularly. Thanks,Denny

After reading your earlier post I checked the label and did see that the DP does have lead in it. That`s not as much of a concern to me as spraying the Durathane. I have built a paint booth in the back of my shop, and it does have controled heat and AC. My uncle sells industrial safety equipement, and is hooking me up with a fresh air supply,complete with the mask, suit,and compressor. BTW, I also aquired 8 gallons of the old imron and 11 qts of the 192s activator that was discontinued. As well as several gallons of the industrial imron. I`m going to see a guy in the morning that used to paint alot with durathane to see if he`s interested in shooting the car for me. From what I`ve been told, it is critical to follow the mix ratio to the letter if you want it to flow and cure properly. Denny

RacerX, I know this is an old thread, but I would like to pick your brain a little. I recently aquired quite a bit of the old DP40, 401 catalyst, several gallons of Durethane with the needed DU5 and DU6 activator. How much experience do you have with spraying Durethane? and are there any special tricks or techniques(other than a fresh air supply)to spraying it with metalics? I`m thinking of painting the car silver since I have enough to do a repaint later.(if the car were to be damaged) I`ve search all over the net for info on Durethane, but only find passing references on aviation web sites. I realize this paint was designed for aerospace and marine applications, but I was hoping to find a little more info than that. Thanks,Denny

I am getting ready to section my struts, and could really use the pin puller. How soon will it be available? Thanks,Denny

The spoiler you are refering to doesn`t really generate downforce. It actually reduces lift by disrupting the airflow that is flowing over the hatch at speed. if you search, there is a very long thread about this and other aerodynamic features of the s30.

I`ve been using Z-grip filler, and have been more than satisfied with how well it performs. It is made by Evercoat, they also have an excellent glazing.

I don`t think he has anything to worry about. Some minor discoloring is normal after the rings seat. This is why we change the oil right after the break in is finished. BTW...I have riden in this car and it has the potential to be a VERY FAST car. I do agree with Mikelly on the exhaust issue. It is very restrictive, but i don`t see an easy way to make it breath. I guess now it`s my turn to get my own marathon project up and running.