lowrider

Hey man, this is Andrew (milky), I meant to get back in touch with you but I've been so busy with school here lately. I should be free some this Sunday, if your not busy, I could swing by with my laptop and see if my tune does it any good. I will try and remember to shoot you a text message tomorrow morning. If anything, I can help get the tune closer than what it is currently. *edit It appears you bought the car from CJ. Anyways, the same offer still stands, I would be more than happy to help you out putting a tune on it.

Nice buy!

Again, I'm neglectful keeping the thread up to date. I have been enjoying the car driving it back and forth to school every day. I fixed on of my major issues with the car if you have read through the entire thread shortly after I build my surge tank, I was experiencing a "fuel cut" type feeling under boost. Turns out after a lot of head scratching and another problem occurring that the cutting out was caused by a bad ground to my relay board. I reran my ground and all is well again. Now to the gory stuff! To find this out, I had a major failure of my dampener causeing the car to not run due to the timing being out of whack (via crank trigger movement). It left my dead on the side of the road scratching my head. I had spark and fuel but the car would not run. I had AAA tow the car back to the house only to find that my dampener bolt, which I had liberally loc-tighted in place, had backed out. This allowed the pulley to wobble back and forth with the key keeping it in place. You would reasonably believe that the key would shear, not the case. The dampener gave way and broke a sizable chunk of the snout OFF, destroying the front seal in the process. Lucky for me I had a spare hanging out on the shelf. The only problem was that it was from a 280 instead of a 260. The 280 dampener's outer most pulley is wider in turn not allowing my crank trigger extension to align with the center bore, so a hub centric spacer was made. I turned it really quickly out of a dampener "washer" on the lathe. Fit like a glove and was ready for installation. I bought a longer crank bolt, used red loc-tight, and torqued the crap out of the crank bolt putting the new dampener on. Since rerouting the MegaSquirt ground the car ran good! sooo...I turned the boost up a hair. I set my low boost for 15psi and the high to 19psi, and I began tuning for high boost. Not much happened for a while I just mainly drove and tuned the car. A buddy of mine the other day called me and said that he had been given a 3" exhaust off of a friends' S2000. attached to this exhaust was an Apexi N1 muffler in like new shape. I had always wanted one and he offered to sell it,I was able to nab it for an easy $60. We went and picked it up Saturday evening and worked into the night to get it on the car. I didn't really take an pictures during the build just a bunch of the finished product. The finished product looks and sounds great! MUCH better than the bullet muffler that came with the exhaust. I also took the opportunity to snap a few pictures of the rest of the exhaust. Please don't mind the mess at the base of the downpipe, when the turbo gave out it stained the crap out of it with oil... Exhaust clip: I start an internship in Asheville, NC in January making a decent amount of money. It is my plan to use a portion of that to buy coil-overs, wheels, and tires. Until then, to remedy my recessed wheels I bought four 1" wheel spacers to make that car look more aggressive. I got a bundle of 240sx spacers on fleabay for a whole $110 shipped. The reason I went with the 240sx spacers because of the lug threads. It seems as though all the other sellers only provide theirs in 12x1.5 vs the 12x1.25 that I needed. The down side to these spacers are the fact that they are a 66mm center bore, so that means they wont fit over the front hubs. Solution: chuck the fronts on the lathe and open them up! I actually received the spacers today and I couldn't wait to put the back on to see how it would look. Pictures tell the tale: Huge difference! I cant wait to get the fronts taken care of and put on tomorrow! Nowwww we are up to date. Til next time, "See you space cowboy"

The fitment of the wing isn't bad. Its a little off in some places(its not drastic), but that is to be expected with a piece that old. Thanks for the complements! Yes, I have it ran under the differential. I initially looked into doing an oval exhaust under the car for ground clearance but that wasn't practical cost wise. I've hit my exhaust a few times since I put it on, I'm more careful of bumps and road defects now because of it.

January, I put the car to rest for the winter and did a little maintenance work. I had had the problem with the car "running out of fuel" So I thought that my tank might have some rust and junk in it, so out it came to be boiled out with muradic acid. This stuff is mean and I highly suggest using a respirator when working with it. I also took advantage of the situation and tried to pull a few dents from the underside. After I cleaned the inside of the tank, it received a liberal coating of por15 gas tank sealer. The tank sealer was then followed by spraying the exterior of the tank with bedliner. The next thing I did was take care of my floor boards. When I had originally welded in patch panels, I painted the floors with crappy enamel paint. I started noticing a few bubbles in the paint so I decided to take the opportunity to take them down to bare metal and apply por15. No longer would I have to worry about more holes appearing in my floors. So began the long tedious task of stripping and coating my floors. I had grown disgusted with the way that my upper intercooler mount looked. So, I cut and remade it from a piece of 1/16" aluminum that I had laying about. I also redid my lower valence connector. The original connector was essentially a proof of concept, and was really only meant as a temporary solution. So, I bought a good sized sheet of 1/8" aluminum and used the old valence connector as a template. The new one is way sturdier and has my lower intercooler mounts incorporated into it, as well as mounting points that anchor it to the lower portion of the radiator support. Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures of the construction of Valence connector V:2. Winter subsides: In exchange for welding up his intercooler piping, a friend is letting me loan his momo-monte carlo Indefinitely. I also picked up an electronic boost controller, unfortunately this retro HKS unit did'nt work. I drove the car for a few months, until my water took a dump on me. I somehow lucked into a small stock of rebuild diesel water pumps so on went one of these bad boys. Unfortunately due to the size of the Taurus fan I have to remove my radiator each time I would otherwise need to remove just my fan, that wouldn't fly. I was looking at completing my AC retrofit and the fan wouldn't allow enough room for my new trigger wheel, so away it went. I bought two 12" slim fans off of Fleabay. I made a shroud out of some left over aluminum that would mount the fans to the stock shroud mounts. Everything came out clean and perfect. Mounted the AC compressor Back together Then I went on a cruise with my girlfriend to Mexico, which stopped at Progreso and Cozumel. When I initially went with the Edis system and crank trigger, I turned the second groove off of a stock dampener. In doing this I cursed my self further down the road when I decided to put AC on the car. The groove that the compressor uses was removed and the wheel in its place. So Before I could finish my AC I had to redesign. I came across an insert that bolted into the stock 260z pulley. This was the same diameter at the first groove, so I chucked this extension in the lathe and turned it down to fit the trigger wheel from an escort. Like the old dampener I had planned on press fitting the wheel on, however I got impatient turning the groove off that I fubared my press fit tolerance, needless to say I ended up welding the Wheel onto the extension. The neat thing about using this extension piece is the fact that all I had to do to my sensor mount was space it out a bit. After I replaced my old dampener with a new-old one in conjunction with the extension and I was good to go. Then I pulled a vacuum on the AC system and charged it with R-12. 38 degree air out of the center vent was wondrous on this summer's 95 degree days. I drove the car for the remainder of the summer along the way, I picked up a full stainless exhaust from a local guy off of Craigslist. It had a 2.5" downpipe that transitioned to 3" under the car and lead to a dynamax bullet muffler. I got this exhaust for a steal, but the downpipe wasn't going to work with the holset. So I removed the downpipe till the 3" portion and made up my own from some scrap 3" mandrel stainless bends a friend had laying about. I placed V-band clamps at the end of the downpipe and around the rear sway bar for easy removal. I have had some trouble with the car smoking when cold. I really didn't pay it any attention until it became too bad to ignore. The car would billow blue smoke when it was coming up to temp. I checked the plugs and they showed no indication of burning oil... the turbo. I pulled my air filter to see that the compressor wheel had contacted the housing, I pulled the holset to rebuild it. G-pop shop was wanting $195 shipped for a compressor wheel and rebuild kit. I found a store on Ebay that sold entire center cartridges complete with compressor and turbine wheels for $180 shipped, I went that route. The cartridge arrived on the slow boat from socal, it took nearly 12 days to get here. I put everything back together and it's back running strong again. Whew, now we are back up to date.

Wow, I've seriously neglected this thread the passed few months. I plan on doing a massive photo dump tomorrow with all of the car's progress over the passed 8 months.

Thanks for all of the attention and suggestions Zmanco. I went yesterday and picked up a 220uf cap to replace the 47uf i had on the boot jumper. It made a significant difference in the voltage increase under load. It increased from a base of 10.8v to 11.4v during 4th gear, however in my opinion that is just a band-aid. It's my plan to email DIYautotune later today to see if they can give any incite. I'm already a step ahead, I downloaded the software pack last night! Again, thanks soo much for the help.

-The lag factor is 50, as far as I know that is the factory setting. -The alternator was completely disconnected, nothing on the output lug nor was the charging wire attached -I did not build the unit, it was bought pre-assembled from DIYautotune. The board is the 3.57 which is surface mounted PCB. -I have ran it successfully before with steady voltage according to one of my older datalogs. I'm not exactly sure when this started happening, some where around the time that I made my surge tank. I made the surge tank because I thought my previous fuel pump setup was running out of steam. Up until that point I hadn't tuned my top end for a while, which is where the problem rears its head. -peculiar... My afr tables in TS display the correct afr reading. -I created the MSQ myself. I honestly don't remember how I initially started the project, Its been so long. -If I'm not mistaken, I'm running 2.1.0d extra currently. 8-23-12 tuning cut out.zip

The problem seems to be with megasquirt. I did two runs both with the alternator disconnected. The first run was with a 47mf capacitor across the boot jumper H1, The second with the capacitor removed. Both runs' datalogs yield interesting results, all of which point to megasquirt. The first run acted just like previous ones the voltage increased exponentially with the load and rpm. The second run the voltage fluctuated from 6.5 to 21.3 volts under load with no detectable pattern. I have a 12 gauge wire straight from the battery to the relay board and a ground from the battery leading to a terminal block inside the car, which is where the relay board is grounded. I have heard of low z injector's PWM current limiting circuitry making noise in the feed line. I have yet to test this because I don't have dropping resistors. Anyways, any addition advice before I pull my hair out? Thanks, Andrew 8-23-12 47mf cap no alt.zip 8-23-12 no cap no alt.zip

I just started back to school, so time is somewhat limited. Tomorrow I plan on disconnecting the alternator to see if that resolves the voltage issue. I plan on posting the results and possibly a data-log.

See, I'm not all that certain that the megasquirt's voltage read is correct. I have a voltage meter incorporated into my turbo timer which reads a solid 13.2 volts under boost all the way to redline. I had some problems in the passed with megasquirt reading spikes in my voltage, after the spikes started showing up it never read the correct voltage. I remedied the voltage spikes by placing a 220nf capacitor cross the h1 jumper. I plan on removing the alternator output and run it straight off the battery to see if the voltage still increases.

I attached a fuel pressure gauge before the fuel rail and induced the "Fuel cut", the fuel pressure stayed rock solid. I'm baffled, my data log says that I have a solid duty cycle/ pulse width and I have fuel pressure. I am now leaning toward an ignition issue. I am currently running edis with a custom mounted escort trigger wheel, escort sensor, and caravan coil. Next order of business is checking the ignition components.

I have been having trouble with my car hitting a wall that feels like the car is hitting "fuel cut". It only happens when I get on boost for a prolonged period. I'm running MS2 on a v3.57 board and what I believe to be the 2.890 code. I initially thought that it was a fueling problem due to the sudden nature of the cut-out, and the fact that if you continue to press the gas after the motor responds as if you switched it to the off position. When it does it, the AFR gauge goes instantly to the leanest reading. I changed my fuel pump/ surge tank for another pump to rule out fuel starvation, yet there was no change. I datalogged the incident happening on the way home this evening. The only peculiar thing I notice is the ever increasing battery voltage... I'm attaching that data log along with this post. If anyone could give me a few ideas that would be excellent, as I'm currently pulling my hair out with the issue. @ 3587s into the datalog is when the "cut-out" occurs. Ohh and I am really rich, and I want to get this nipped in the butt before I start tuning further. Thank you, -Andrew 8-16-12 cut out run.zip

I have a stainless 2.5" DP. The guy I got it from said it would bolt to the stock turbo, but it appears to have a standard 5 bolt flange. It also is setup for an external wastegate.

I have two 12" straight blade eBay fans on a custom shroud currently. I'm using one fan for low and both of them for high. The fans just barely handled 100 degree Tennessee heat. I recently put ac on my car, and in 80-90 degree weather they are struggling. I plan on temping a pusher between my intercooler and condensor to see if the extra capacity helps significantly. If so, the search begins for decent 12" fans. I ran a Taurus fan for several months, the thing was a beast. I had to trim the Taurus shroud ALOT to get it to fit between the rad and motor. In humid 85 degree weather the fan never cycled to high,

You need to get it out, and stretch it's legs. It's not right to keep it cooped up!

Nice! I hope you had a blast! Its a shame the dragon is roughly an hour away from me and I rarely go. The key to driving the dragon is going on week days; Very litle traffic and minimal amounts of law enforcement make for a good time!

Yesss! Eventhough they are copies, I have always wanted the look of ccw's without the hefty price tag. I can't wait for these to come out!

"I am not drinking" lmao! Only you Phil, only you!

Pmed

That is symptomatic of the L terminal not receiving 12v. I would check and see that you have power to the terminal with the key in the on position.

I'm getting a little frustrated with the lag of my Wh1C, so I'm looking for an hy35 for the smaller exhaust housing. I'm looking to spend less than $200 shipped for one in decent shape, show me what y'all have. Thanks, Andrew

I would be on board, price depending of course.

I've been there, my difficulty was with calc3. It was my first math course at "big boy school" at the University of Tennessee after transferring from a local community college. The teacher was Russian with a very heavy accent, he had his own E-book that was used in the class. He also had the online homework. That was the first time I had ever failed a class. I tried to take it the next semester with a different teacher, this time I had enough sense to drop the class and get out alive. I ended up taking the class at another local community college during the summer. The level of teacher skill was astounding. So my suggestion to you, is to see how the first test goes. If it doesn't fair well, look and see if another professor teaches the class. It's amazing how helpful a professor that knows how to convey the material is. Don't let this discourage you, life is a roller coaster you have to ride out the ups, downs, and loop-d-loops! Rate my professor is your friend!

Understandable. I think the RB30 would suit you well in the green machine. The quest for more power would be readily available compared to the L28 ( we all know it's about the power!).