lowrider

Picture hosting test post.

Photobucket has completely bombed this build thread. In the next day or so, I will be replacing the images and will update what has happened with the car over the past two years.

What type of half shafts/axles are you running? What has been done suspension wise? The reason I ask is I had vibration issues with my 260Z during acceleration only for several years on both the stock suspension, lowering springs, and coilovers. I swapped the differential from the stock R180 to a R200 along with shortening the driver half shaft and still had the vibration on accel only. It wasn't until I converted to CV axles that the vibration went away. I blame it on the half shafts being imbalanced/bad u-joint angles. It only was happening during acceleration because the rear of the car was squatting enough to change the halfshaft angles. That might be something worth checking out.

They make both forward and backward curved blades. It depends on the flow characteristics one wants out of the system. I would check to see that the motors rotate in the same direction and not worry about it.

Place called Tims Turbos on eBay. I looked and it looks like they are no longer on eBay but a Google search turned up their website. If I remember correctly the housing wasn't terribly expensive either. The only caveat is the fact that the housing doesn't have provisions to be internally wastegated. I welded on an external wastegate on the manifold under the turbo flange when I installed it.

I ran the 12cm^2 exhaust housing on my 260z for several years before replacing it with a .68ar housing. The 12cm^2 housing worked but had a little more lag than I liked. I was getting peak manifold pressure of 18 psi by 4300-4500 RPM on an N42 bottom end and a p79 head with a stock C cam. I cant comment on the larger 16cm^2 housing, but I personally wouldn't want anything with a higher boost threshold.. Since changing to the .68ar housing, I am reaching 18psi by 3300-3500 now; which I feel is perfect. Just my 2 cents.

Be prepared for people to walk to the passenger side of the car to find the turbo now. It happens to me all the time. I love the progress! The car is looking great!

I'm in total agreeance on the point that this product/ marketing has warning signs everywhere.

At the end of the video above he states that the trigger point of the black box is adjustable. He makes no reference to RPM, he does however reference manifold vacuum which leads me to believe that the system is using a Hobbs switch. It seems as though the literature/ descriptions between the video and the ad have some discrepancies. If it is in fact RPM controllable, I guarantee that more than one wire would have to be cut to provide the proper inputs/outputs to modify the fueling amount. Either way, for a couple hundred more dollars you could purchase a stand-alone fuel management system versus a Band-Aid to a system that was designed in the 60's/70's.

Like Tony said, It looks like a Hobbs switch controlled system that adds the dialed resistance from a Pot. Back when I first turboed my 260 with the stock injection from a late ZX I had a Hobbs switch control a relay that had a Pot in series on the N/O leg. It worked, but it was incredibly crude. It kept the O2 controlled cruising/partial throttle fuel control the same as stock and when the Hobbs switch was active would dump the fuel to it. I had thoughts of constructing a staged system with multiple Hobbs switches and Pots for better more refined part throttle transitions while on boost but for the price of materials a megasquirt could be had that wasn't technology from the 60's/70's.

You planning on driving it to ZdayZ? I'd love to check the car out in person!

The work looks excellent!! Any pictures underneath? I'm curious about ground clearance. With my exhaust it is an issue under the trans mount and differential. Also, tell your customer to go ahead and invest in a Tim's Turbo exhaust housing the spool characteristics are soo much better in comparison to the stock housing.

I would definitely be interested!

Most recent engine bay shot of my Turd.

Thank you! That's the little booger that I need!

The line I need is similar to the rubber one you have, but the one you have pictured is the hose from the firewall to the compressor. The line I need has two 90's versus the one pictured that has a straight on one side and a 90 on the other.

I'm not sure that is either of those. The ends on those two appear to bolt on versus a flared type. What year car are you parting the A/C from? I'm needing the hose from a 75-77.

Hey all, I'm in need of the flexible rubber high pressure AC hose that goes from the compressor to the condenser. The old hose decided to spring a leak and promptly remove all of the R12 in the system. Without AC, the car becomes an oven especially in mid 90 degree heat! Thank you!

When I did the install I didn't snap any pictures, but it was fairly simple. I bought a v-band type wastegate from a vender on eBay after reading reviews of how quality they were (I don't remember the name). When I got it, I measured the V-band diameter and ordered a sc40 90 degree weld elbow from McMaster carr that matched od to od. Next I used a hole saw to make a hole directly under the turbo flange. I welded the V-band to one end of the weld-el and then the weld-el to the manifold with the V-band pointing rearward. It was a fairly simple process and only costed around $100 or so.

When I was running the 12cm^2 factory Holset exhast housing, I was in the same boat. In an attempt to get enough flow from the wastegate I ended up removing the divider down to the wastegate hole, and replacing the wastegate flapper with a larger one / ported the crap out of the wastegate hole. It worked alright and would hold 10psi, creeping to 13psi at redline. Eventually I wanted a bit faster spool and changed exhaust housings and went external. I should have went external from the start. It controls the system pressure more accurately not to mention the time, money, and effort I spent trying to get the stock internally gated setup to work.

I'm looking for a set of NA Z31 cv axle endcaps. I need these to finish up my 280zx CV axle swap for my 260Z. Turns out the long s130 endcap/grease shield is a hair too long and contacts my stub axle nuts with my custom adapter. The Z31 units are shorter and will allow me to finally bolt everything together. Attached is a picture of the s130 and the NA Z31 covers. Again, I'm looking for the Z31 variant. Thank you!

Thanks for the love man! I haven't updated this thread in a while. Rest assured, the car is still progressing and I need to snap some pictures and update things. I actually have a cv conversion in the works that should be installed in the next couple of weeks. Why get a $500 jeep when you could get a roof rack for $30?! The deflector on the roof rack actually keeps rain from getting under the sunroof when I drive in the rain. So I call it a win win! I love the wheels too, when rota started making the more affordable imitation I knew I had to have them!

I'm currently using a Hayden 16" two speed fan on my l28et with A/C. The car has no issue keeping cool with A/C on in the hot 100 degree Tennessee summer. It was difficult finding a cooling fan that was thin enough to not interfere with the crank trigger and flow enough air to manage temps with the air conditioning. The best part about the Hayden fan is that it is available at O'Reilly auto parts! Here is the link to the exact fan I used: http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HDN1/3817.oap?ck=Search_3817_-1_4818&keyword=3817

I can't wait to get my Z a fresh brown paint job!