dsommer

I've read Austin's thread several times. But my question still remains which SIDE is which??? I'll mock them up higher later today.

OK getting ready to cut the rears but just looking for confirmation that this flair is on the correct side. Passenger side rear. Comments? Is it right? REFERENCE on Austins car. I see how his is at the top of the body line, mine is almost there. Going to be running coil overs so I can drop the tire/wheel into the flair.

You'll figure it out When jacking the car one bridge is used for the jack the other one is used for the stands. Not totally necessary but ultra conveint (sp). ignore the junk see the bridges, one under the Xmember the other for the stands.

I need a better paying job....

Enlighten me about Houston, where to live, best schools etc. Possible move coming up and want to start checking it out. Looking for a burb with low crime rate, quality schools etc. Thanks!!! David

Sweet!!! I've got one too and absolutly love it!!! Did you get one or two steel bridges?

That car was advertised in GA for the longest time for a price of $25K.

Full write up has been covered here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113064

TR if the engine is bad (short block I've got an extra for CHEAP!) if the car is clean (no major rust) get the damn thing, we'll work out the details, I've got a parts contact galore and I just GAVE him a 280 short block that he'll give back to me not problem at all, I'll get it for you if you need it.

Be sure to take a little screw driver like I did when we went to Tulsa. Also take a jack (and a 2x8 for the soft ground!) to raise the car up and check the floor pans from the bottom also watch the TC rod mounting areas. I mean it can all be fixed, rails, floor pans but I'd rather not get into quarter panels etc. Just remember if it has too much rust pass on it unless you can talk him WAY down, it would make an excellet parts car. Watch those frame rails in the engine bay too, not only for rust but for accident damage like I showed you. Since the rear tail lights are out that means water's been coming in check the spare tire well closely. Remember 15 is his "asking" price, don't be afraid to walk if it requires too much work. Plus he may call you back. Good luck, wish I could go with you but family prohibits me from going anywhere right now. d Remember

5 or 6? What do I win???

A buddy of mine has a set for sale in Arkansas for $300. 90-91 CRX Si seats

Dude that stinks, hate to be a buzz kill but I ordered my stroker set up from dyno-flo performance out of Vegas, all new stuff expensive but it's all balanced Eagle parts and Mahle pistons. Although the initial parts price is a bit high (what's not nowadays) I only had to buy once and done. Next time I'm going crate motor, you may want to look in to that too.

Can I forgo the billet flywheel?

Bill post some of the generic specs on your car. Engine/Tranny Rear end Tire and wheel size WAY TO GO!!!! I know Bryan is chomping at the bit waiting to get his out and about...While I still formulate a plan for mine, WHICH I FINALLY HAVE!!!!

V8ZRACER Are you limited to the the size of the disk you can run? My tranny is out fo a 91 Z28 it's a WC-T5. Would I need to upgrade the flywheel to a larger diameter (ie 11"?) and or would the stock bell housing accomdate a larger clutch/PP and flywheel? (I'm ignorant about clutches) The Ram clutch I'm running seem to be OK but going with the stroker set up I want something that will hold the power (est 500 hp + 100 HP NO2) Thanks, David

Bill what is your engine set up (HP/TQ wise?) Which Ram clutch are you useing the one from Summit? I'm considering the Center Force DF clutch or the Stage II, haven't yet made up my mind.

You need the brackets from a 70-72 model to pull the bumper in closer. 73's had early "crash" bumper brackets which pushed them out and used filler boomerangs and center panels to close the gap between the fenders and grill.

^^^ Brian, what are you still doing up? Listen to him, his car is DA BOMB!!! NO shortcuts are being taken on his car, period!

Repost. MidAmerica Motorplex outside Omaha, NE. Drove it on Labor Day, fun!

I feel for the guy but lets do the math. AZC parts 8K LS1 t56 I found one in OKC a while back that went for 3K on ebay. So were at 11K Parts and pieces, fiberglass, tires and wheels 3.5K? If it was all put together, painted etc it would be a 20K plus car to the right buyer. If I was in the market I go 10-11K. Sorry it's used parts ie in the hand of somebody besides the OEM. Just my .02

Oh gotta throw my name in the mix huh? Well no worries the engine I'm building will be sitting on a stand for quite some time before it goes in the car so your $1K can grow in to let's say $2K before my car gets on the road and your's will still be soooo much nicer. $1K for performance hmmmm. ECU chipped/custom reflash plus a NICE nitrous system as stated 100 to 125 shot will get things going. I'd save it until the car is on the road, tuned and running like it should then dump the grand in to it. Just my .02 worth (buy a 90 day CD David

I've got one for sale too, it's been rebuilt to stock specs, just the tranny, maker offer. Don't need it.

Hey welcome to the board. The aluminum plates you're seeing are probably the spacers which get sandwiched inbetween the engine mount and an unpainted setback plate. Follow Dans advice from above, gald to see somebody searching, good luck and seach first ask questions later. I might be living proof of how well the search function works, member since FEB 2000 and just over 500 posts. I've completed 1 V8 conversion 1973 car and am about to rip it apart and start with a bare 1970 shell.

If we have time on Friday I'll let you have a seat in the Scarab. It's outfitted with Recaros that sit pretty much in the same location as a stock seat. David