ktm

My speedo and tach are just friction fit with the stock front fascia (the part that looks like a beak). The front fascia is friction fit in the dash. So far not a single issue with them moving.

I caught the end of the show and the 10 minutes I saw were 10 minutes too long. Terrible chemistry and it sounded scripted. My absolute favorite TG UK edition was the bike trip through Vietnam at the end of Season 14. Utterly amazing.

Rewired the stereo system. After installing a Deka lightweight battery, it became apparent it did not have enough amp-hours to run two amps (watching the AFR gauge bounce to the beat of the sub was funny.....for 5 seconds). I rewired the 4-channel amp to drive all speakers and the sub. The sub bridged channels 1 and 2 and the speakers are driven off of 3 and 4. So far it seems to have worked. No AFR bounce at idle with the electric fan on.

How did you prime the pump with it in the car? You prime the pump by putting oil in it before reassembly. The oil pumps are not self-priming.

The Z on BJ's auction was a 1974 260z, not a Series 1 240z. That is a huge difference in the collectible market. Pristine, low mileage, low vin show room early Series 1 240z's can go for over $50,000; if a Series 1 they can fetch over $30,000. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31271&highlight=50,000

There is a recent thread on Hybridz regarding installing a Volvo engine into his Z. The poster does exactly what Jon described (flycutting the pistons). He has photographs of the tool and the process.

The originals have studs that you use to mount the spoiler to the car. I picked mine up a couple years ago for around $200 shipped. They pop up from time to time as stated above, but be prepared to pay.

Nope, not noise issue whatsoever. The tach is rock steady throughout the RPM range.

Looks great! Lexus has a similar color on their 2009/2010 cars that I've been contemplating. It's good to see that I am not crazy.

I did not have to remove the dash for installation. I used the mounting cups for the 2-1/16 gauges which allowed me to then bolt them in like stock gauges. The speedo and tach are 4-in. diameter and I friction fit them into the stock trim piece that bolts onto the gauge cup.

If it is a 1983 L28ET, then it is a very good chance that the lifters are hydraulic and do not use the retainer springs.

Steve, I am using Speedhut gauges with "through the dial/face" lighting. My lighting color is blue as all of my gauges are Speedhut. You could opt for Speedhut and select green lighting. It may not be a perfect match but should be close.

Mongo, I should have said thanks earlier. I also did some research on the 'net and talked to Mike a few times at his shop. The head is now in his hands getting his competition port as well as a rebuild, competition valve job (his description), and reassembly. I just picked up an Isky cam (L490/L480 grind), retainers and springs. Mike will custom grind the lash pads as needed. His price is quite reasonable as well. It should all be done by the new year.

I used a 2-1/16 gauge and installed it in the clock housing itself. That way I could use the stock mounting tabs as well as keep the original housings.

Then they must have had a tool with missing parts or a different one altogether. The tool I rented from them to remove my pilot bushing was adjustable.

The speedometer pinion needs to have the correct cog/gear that matches the gearing of the differential for the speedometer to read correctly. Take the speedometer pinion assembly out of the transmission and you'll see that it has a colored cog/gear on the end of it. Each color corresponds to a differential ratio as dapiper posted. You can swap out these cogs/gears to match your differential and have your speedometer read correctly.

Like I said over at Classiczcars.com: Go to Autozone. Ask to rent the pilot bushing puller. I am not kidding. They ask for a deposit, you spend 2 minutes using the puller, return the puller and get your deposit back.

The project is really coming along nicely Ron.

Riken Mesh

The point is that the newb should not be asking such a question in the first place here because his question has been answered already. I was banned from My350z back when I had a Lemans Sunset 350z in 2003 for calling out an idiot. No name calling, no derogatory statements, but he was butt hurt, complained to the moderator and I was summarily banned.

Looks and sounds amazing. Makes me wish I had gone V8.

I've used hole saws before for my smaller gauges, though not with all of the prep work that bjhines rightfully recommends, but for the 5-in. gauges I've also used my Dremel with a thin metal cutoff wheel. I draw the hole on the aluminum with a sharpie and then draw 4 lines across the diameter (45 degrees apart). I use my cutoff wheel to cut the lines across and then I cut the chord between two lines near the circumference. You wind up with an octagon that can be cleaned up with a die grinder. bjhines method though leaves you with a very nice clean, regular circular surface. My method leaves you with a clean, irregular surface (depending on how neat you want it) that is hidden by the gauge.

A blade letting go would not cause the damage pattern on the radiator. All the blades letting go would cause damage in the engine bay, not just the radiator. The radiator shows signs of impact with the fan.

The fact that your accessories are not working (lights) when the car is off but are working when it is on leads me to believe you have an issue with your ignition switch. Make sure the plug is firmly seated. It could have come loose. I had s similar issue. I could drive my car for a while and start it up with no problem. However, periodically I would not have any power whatsoever to the starter (ignition wire). I could jump the car by touch a wire to the battery terminal and the starter solenoid though. You could also have a defective ignition switch. Edit: Saying that, I saw you mentioned smoke. Check the accessory relay which is located kick panel by the passenger foot well. Take the magical smoke seriously. However, that should not affect your lights. Your lights should turn on with the key out of the ignition (they are not on an ignition hot circuit).

Reminds me when I snapped the shaft on my turbo about 8 miles from home. Hit 20 psi and BOOM!!! I laid down a smoke screen large enough to hide a Panzer division storming Poland. I nursed it home 8 miles, blowing oil everywhere, praying no one called me in as a gross polluter.