ktm

I intend to get his competition porting job which runs around $750, but that is for just the porting work. Hot tanking, valve train assembly, etc. runs more. Based on the cost of $300 to rebuild my P90a by Valley Engine and Machine, I expect to spend around $1100ish. Anyone?

Seriously, read it again: The stock Z brakes are adequate for street driving, autox, and drag racing. The stock Z brakes are adequate for street driving, autox, and drag racing. This is not a joke. Even with a V8 or turbo pushing lots of hp; The stock Z brakes are adequate for street driving, autox, and drag racing. It is true. Many people upgrade to disc brakes "just because" or because they believe there is a perceived difference. You can lock up the fronts with the stockers just as well as with Wilwoods on a street car. Others upgrade for valid reasons such as tracking the car (I am not talking Auto-X). My stock brakes were fine for a while, but I upgraded because my fronts needed rebuilding and my rear drums were shot. I managed to get great deals on parts for sale and it cost me the same as buying reman'd stock parts. Would I do it again? Yes, because disc pads and rotors are easy to come by and are relatively inexpensive compared to drums.

Yes, 7-inches is the typical width for aftermarket wheels. Most people who buy aftermarket wheels are simply replacing their OEM wheels. Most modern OEM wheel widths are 7-inches. It is not ricey to replace your wheels for aesthetic reasons. A majority of Z owners do just that. As John C states, tread compound does more than increasing width.

A 7 inch wide wheel is not small, it is the typical width for wheels.

It depends on the gauge. I am using Speedhut electric gauges that incorporate a high speed stepper motor. The gauges react instantaneously.

Just do what I did: bundle up and keep your windows partially down! While living in Germany my fathers 1972 911 could not heat the car sufficiently to keep the windows clear. I would routinely bundle up and keep the windows partially rolled down. I had to keep turning up the stereo, though, to drown out my girlfriend's bitching.

My research regarding reliability was similar, though I filtered the whining idiots. I figured the same as you. These are, for all intensive purposes, repackaged ATV/motorcycle batteries. I was looking at using the Lincoln Mark VIII fan at one point, but it is too thick at 5-in. for the L-series. It is the "new" Taurus fan. It pulls around 33 to 40 amps continuous, but over 100 amps on start-up! I still recommend the 12-circuit fuse box. I do not know if this car will ever see the street at some time in the future, but the incremental cost difference is well worth it for the added flexibility. Wiring is not that hard. I taught myself everything and it is not very hard once you do it once or twice. Since Dave is local that is an option, but you may want to give it a go yourself at first. I agree with z-ya that if you do attempt it yourself, think it through a few times and understand how you want to route your circuits. I built my own harnesses as well and used a Painless 12-circuit fuse panel and a generic 8 circuit panel. If this is a pure track vehicle, the manually reseting circuit breakers are a good idea. They are not expensive (cheaper than a fuse box) and you would ideally have a circuit breaker for each major circuit (ECU is on a circuit all by itself, followed by coils and fuel injectors, pump, fan, etc.). Ron Tyler and Hughdogz both have a very slick circuit breaker panel that is compact and attaches to the kick panel area. Check Hughdogz build thread for photos. The one (potentially big) problem I see with circuit breakers is the power feed. On a fuse box, you have one main 10 ga feed that provides power to the fuse box. With circuit breakers you need to run a main feed to each circuit unless you had a distribution bar/point.

Close rossman, it is that thread which prompted my question. Tony mentioned in passing running 10 psi with full advance versus 20 psi that is retarded for a given power, but it is only mentioned once. I've been trying to get my head around that statement for a while and can not quite seem to get it. If I am making the same power at 10 psi that I was at 20 psi, why can I run full advance at 10 psi? Shouldn't it be closer to the advance at 20 psi?

I am about to pull the trigger and get my cylinder head ported by Slover Porting and install an Isky cam. I've been searching for the better part of 2 hours trying to find an answer to my question to no avail. Following porting work and cam installation, will the timing generally stay the same for a given boost (yes Tony, I know it's about flow) or does it decrease due to increase in VE and flow and thus power? For instance, I may run 20 psi to achieve 400 ft-lbs of torque, but following porting work I may be able to achieve that same power at 12 psi. My timing at 20 psi is, say, 18 degrees. Would I retune my setup for 18 degrees at 12 psi or would I be able to run closer to its current timing (say, 25 degrees)? I am talking about rough tuning. The effective compression ratio has definitely changed considerably, but the mass of air has not correct? Air + fuel = power. For a given power level, you need a certain amount of air and fuel.

The Modern Motorsport kit uses the 300zx rotors. Check to make sure the caliper is opened all the way. By comparing the rubber boot in the two pictures, it appears that the caliper is extended in the lower picture. You see two folds in the first picture and only a partial fold in the second. Also, important, check that the piston is fully seated once you get the pads in. It is not pressed in but rather screwed into position. It takes quite a number of turns to get it to fit.

Make it the same size as the feed line and you will not have any issues. Yes, it can be smaller, but it is just easier to make both lines the same size.

Just like in any field, there is a shortage or surplus of talent depending on your particular specialty. For instance, I am a geotechnical engineer who specialized in solid waste facility design. I have traveled the world due to my specialization (3 years in China, Thailand, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, etc.) and am now working for one of the largest waste management companies in the world. I am never in want of a job. Whenever I would update (even now) my resume on Monster, I receive over 30 calls a week until my resume falls off the first few pages. Now contrast that with all of the engineers who went into land development. I've interviewed well over 60 engineers for a position with my current company and all of them, save for 3, were from land development companies. Additionally, nearly all of them did not have a grasp of the basics of engineering. There is a dearth of good, talented engineers. Most schools really are doing their students a disservice by not demanding anything from them. When I finished my graduate research project at UT Austin I was a TA for a semester. I could not believe that the engineers could submit their assignments on notebook paper, yellow paper, etc. in pen, and were not held to any grammatical or spelling standards. During my days at Purdue (graduated in 1994), we were required to do all of our work either on the computer (and at that time no one really had their own PC) or on engineering paper. We were graded not only on the engineering content but also grammar, spelling, neatness, etc. I see that I am rambling. However, I will finish saying that I agree with a comment that MAG wrote regarding the relationship between engineers and accountants. It used to be that accountants were simply financial tools of a company. Most accountants can not apply knowledge and think only in black and white. It is not their fault as the requirements of GAAP and Sarbanes-Oxley are fairly stultifying. However, nowadays accountants are running companies, much to the companies detriment, and engineers are just tools. Innovation is being squashed as it costs money, and money results in "poor" returns on Wall Street.

What brand? It is common for Aeromotive's FPR to not hold pressure after shutting down. Mine bleeds off quickly.

Nope. Remember, the air is "cooled" after passing through the I/C. It gets replaced with more air cooled by the I/C. You are talking about maybe 1 to 2 psi. The BOV is venting to prevent damage to the turbo in all applications. Google "water hammer".

....why? The Z32 transmission is rather solid and known to handle over 600 ft-lbs. It is a lot cheaper than a T56.

Then sell your car and buy something more modern. We are not here to spoon feed you. Read the manual and go through the procedures outlined in the FSM for testing the ECU as well as search here and at Zcar.com and Classiczcar.com for possible causes of your problem.

I've had great success with the wide foam tape. It covers the interior perimeters of all of my panels where they touch the metal. My car does not make one squeak. The rubberized undercoating is a good idea.

Year of car would help tremendously.

I will be dropping my head and Isky cam off to Slover in the next few weeks, but before I do I was wondering if anyone here has used his services? A quick search on "slover" only turned up 4 hits and no real discussion. I visited his shop yesterday while I was in the area and talked to him for 40 minutes. He seems knowledgeable about the L-series head and even had a welded up N-42 that he worked on. I told him my goals as well as parts and he had the following recommendations: He'll source the lash pads and grind them down as necessary instead of using ones purchased from Isky. Reason being that the pads are all about the wipe pattern and that is a function of more than just the cam. He recommended Schneider retainer springs and not the ones available from Isky. Reason being the springs from Isky are too heavy/stout (heavy gage). The Schneider's are stiffer than stock but not nearly as stiff as Isky's. Does anyone care to comment about their experience with Slover and his recommendations? Thanks.

Here you go: http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/bangbang.html It looks like it increases exhaust gas temperatures rather significantly which would have an effect on the turbine.

The red/blue (my wiring diagram shows it as blue/red) is the accessory power and is connected to the accessory relay. When you turn the key to accessory you should hear a click over by the passenger foot well. The red and black wires at your turn signal stalk are your lights (either high beam or low beam). The black wire is the ground for the lights. Without the black wire connected you will not have lights period. You've missed some connections as you stated (red wire and black wire not connected). You should really have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) or at least a Haynes manual if you are going to work on your car.

Update: Just spent the better part of 30 minutes sniffing exhaust fumes in my open garage while I debugged my EMS, FJO Racing methanol controller setup and Innovate LMA-3/LC-1 to make sure all three worked after I rewired the car. It's now ready for the road.....I think.

True baller status would be to have the entire G-nose in carbon fiber. Looks good.

JC answered the question, but think about it a minute. Where do you think the boost from the turbo goes.....

No reason other than owner's preference.