ktm

An intercooler is more cost efficient than water/meth injection. I am running both. You can buy a universal I/C, piping, clamps, hoses, etc. for under $200 on Ebay. Coolingmist, Snow Performance, Devils Own, Alky Control, FJO Racing and Aquamist are all more expensive (especially the last two). I have a fully progressive system using two 700 cc/min high speed solenoid injectors and a standalone (in addition to my ECU) meth controller that fully maps my injection based on RPM and MAP. My system costs around $550 to $600. Snow Performance's kit is around $300 if I remember correctly. Meth injection should not be used as your primary source of charge cooling on a street driven car unless you have multiple fail safes built into your setup. Clogged injectors, loss of power, running out of meth, loss of meth pressure, etc. when you are boosting can lead to a blown engine unless you have a system that can automatically switch maps or cut boost. Why push the stock turbo to it's limits? It will be well outside of its efficiency range. Size your turbo and your engine setup correctly for your power goals.

Look into the Deka ETX series. They are the battery manufacturer for Braille (do a Google search on "Braille Deka"). You can pick up a Deka for around $75. I am using the ETX30L and I bought a Braille mount from Summit Racing. Fits like a charm. I mounted the battery right in the middle of the rear deck, slightly forward of the strut towers. I would recommend a 12-circuit fuse box. Weight is a non-issue and the 12-circuits gives you more flexibility. I just installed a 12-circuit Painless box in my car. The electric fan circuit is not rated for a fan but rather is wired only to trigger a relay. Seems rather stupid to have a fuse on the relay power line when you have need a fuse on the main power feed to the fan. You will need to wire up your kill switch so that it kills all current from both the battery and alternator. I do not know about the road racing sanctioning bodies, but NHRA requires the switch to be accessible from outside the car. I am not "racing" my car and thus mounted my kill switch under the passenger side inspection panel where the battery used to reside. I would recommend 2-ga welding wire. Welding wire contains finer strands and is more flexible. Summit Racing has a great deal on their battery relocation wire. I picked up 12-ft of positive 2-ga cable and 1-ft. of 2-ga negative cable, grommets and clamps for around $70. The terminals are side-mount and come with terminal covers. I'll post a picture later tonight if I remember.

When I get home I will finish up the last little bit of a complete rewire of my car as well as relocating the battery. I've been working on this project for around 5 weeks.

Exactly. I, for one, like theme and see where you are going. LanceVance has a good suggestion and I like the imagery you selected. However, there is far to much red and shades thereof going on. I see the paint job getting old after a few years and opting for something more subtle, but, as crazyoctopus said, it's only paint. This is really no different than people painting stripes down the hood, two-tone paint jobs, attempting the "panda" look, putting "carbon fiber" (most are just reskinned fiberglass) hoods on their cars, etc.

Why run it with a flapper at all? The S30 has a small cabin. You could always have it run in defogger mode and it will do well enough to warm up the cabin.

Thanks Challenger. I went ahead and mounted my cutoff switch on the firewall over the battery tray area. I had to remove the battery tray in order to mount the switch. It is a good convenient location.

Yep. When I replaced my ammeter with a voltmeter, I had to connect these two wires together in order to charge the battery from the alternator. The ammeter was the point of connection between the battery and the alternator. My wires got very hot and melted the butt splice as well as part of the insulation. You should be able to remove this connection all together and cap the ends as long as you find another means of connecting the battery to the alternator.

I am in the process of rewiring my car after an electrical short that almost caused significant, if not catastrophic, burn damage. As part of this project I am relocating the battery to the rear deck, using a Deka ETX30L "light weight" battery, and installing a cut off switch. The battery will be located in the center of the deck about 6 inches from the luggage riser trim and mounted flat. To those that have relocated their batteries and installed a cutoff switch, where did you mount the switch?

Looks beautiful Mark! Where did I see that strip style before, hmmmm?

Mark, the LMA-3 should work. It could be something as simple as the dummy plug that is necessary for the LC-1 cable is missing. I wish I could look at the setup myself.

I just finished rewiring my car after I had a short that fried the entire harness. The combo/turn signal switch was a bit confusing when trying to adapt to a Painless fuse block (I made my own wiring harness). You are correct. When you hit the brakes, it uses the same wires as the turn signals. When you signal and hit the brakes, the side that the turn signal is active will blink but will not show a brake light. The brake switch feeds the turn signal stalk which in turn feeds to white/red and white/black wires which are the "turn signal" wires.

Are you sure your mechanical gauge is accurate? What does your LMA-3 auxbox say?

Says who? You can get very accurate readings with an electric (either digital or analog) gauge. It is simply a MAP sensor hooked up to a vacuum source that is connected to the manifold. The MAP sensor connects to the gauge with a harness that has two plugs, one for the gauge and one for the sensor. There is nothing to screw up. You need a ground, ignition hot and dash light source. That's it.

6-in. Alpines in custom enclosure in the kick panel:

My low beam/high beam switch needed to be shimmed (don't know why) in order to get the high beam to engage. You should hear a definite click when turn on the high beams. If your lower beams work, then the ground works as the high beams and low beams share the same ground on a 240z. The ground is located on the turn signal stalk. The combo switch only provides power to the lights and the parking lights, the low beam/high beam switch is where the ground it located.

Mark, Glad to hear it. However, your true starting fuel rate is most likely more than 10 ms. Wolf uses the engine temp and intake air temp to modify the fuel rates, both starting and running. Next time you have Wolf hooked up to the car and before you start it, look in the upper right hand corner under Inj 1. It will tell you the true starting fuel rate. Do not adjust your starting fuel rate to match that value though. My starting fuel rate is 6 ms that is adjusted upwards using the curve I mentioned before and the engine/IAT scaling factors to 9 ms. As for the wideband, do a free air calibration. The LC-1 manual tells you how. You should remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust downpipe to expose it to "free air". There is a ground wire that you ground and the wideband will go through a calibration process that takes 1 to 2 seconds.

Leave the starting fuel rate alone and adjust the Starting Fuel Rate Engine Temp curve under Fuel - Fuel Modifiers - Starting - Starting Fuel Rate Engine Temp. Right now with all of the modifiers (engine temp, air temp, starting fuel rate, etc.) my initial fuel rate is around 9 ms when starting cold. You can see this in the upper right hand corner of the display under Inj 1. I am still adjusting it as it still takes a few cranks to turn over when cold.

Mark, yes that is correct for the Load-MAP relationship setup in your map. 0% is -14.7 psi (a perfect vacuum) and 100% is 25 psi (if I remember correctly). You can setup your own relationship under Configuration if you want a higher resolution for your Load, but I wouldn't.

I've been waiting for J&S to come up with a system that supports the LS1 coils. The Vampire requires dumb coils. Is the Interceptor a new unit? I would say a connector. Convenience is key. You will appreciate it later. As far as soldering goes, I was concerned as well but opted for soldering as it is a smaller connection and allows for a cleaner installation. As Ron said, convenience and convenience. I have connectors on my Wolf setup and am installing even more now that I am doing a complete rewire of the dash and front light harnesses. I've had no issues at all with my connectors. I use primarily Molex and bullet connectors. I made my own. I bought some 3-wire cabling from a local industrial electrical supply store as well as shielding sheath and heat shrink. I only used the shielded cable for the CAS connection. I have not had any issues with my setup doing exactly this.

A wiring diagram and two cases of beer, bottles of scotch, or whatever you drink. Oh yeah, time and patience. Have fun.

Tool shed anyone? There is quite a bit of misinformation in this thread that it is not worth saving. Purge it from the search database if you will.

Finding stations is the challenge, that and replumbing the entire fuel system to run E85. I am replacing my braided fuel lines in the next year most likely and will be running E85 compatible hard lines. Still, I wish finding E85 stations was less like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.

Thank you. Check your firing order as Goth mentioned. It's easy to get the plug wires confused. A weak battery can cause issues with the starting as well. If the engine can't spin fast enough to develop sufficient compression, the car won't start. Have your battery checked (a load check at your favorite "Zone") and check the connections (ground and power).

About a week ago I met my wife for dinner at a nice little restaurant in town. I decided to drive the Z as it was a gorgeous evening for a cruise. I get to the restaurant without issue and proceed to enjoy my meal. When we get outside it is dark. My wife gets in her car and starts to head home. I hop in the Z, let it warm up, and head off too. I get no more than 1000 feet from the restaurant and start to smell smoke. Within another 100 feet the odor is quite strong and I can see smoke coming from my vents by other's headlights. I frantically pull into a deserted parking lot and turn off the car and lights. The car stops but the parking lights will not turn off. Smoke is billowing out of my cabin and engine bay at this time. I check for a glow around the car and pop the hood. I see smoke emanating from a point in my harness near the radiator support. I pull all of my Maxi fuses that I can. One of them is too damn hot to touch and the holder is melting. I can't access my fuse box due to my modifications (used button head bolts to secure it in place - lesson learned) so I rip the positive terminal off the battery. The negative terminal is under the inspection lid and I can not get a good grip on the terminal. By this time there is a visible flame by the radiator support. I manage to put the flame out and breath a sigh of relief. I call AAA and get a tow home. The following day I inspect the damage. The car is ok as is everything else save for the dash and engine bay harness. My car is heavily modified so my engine bay harness only carries the lights, starter, alternator and battery feeds. The driver's side side marker light wire is completely melted from the bullet to the combo switch. I am talking about 8+ feet of bare, exposed wire. The nearest I can tell the insulator slipped off the bullet connect and it made contact with the front valence, shorting out. I am now rewiring my car with a Painless 12-circuit fuse box and my own harness. A fire extinguisher will also be ordered shortly (been putting it off for a little while). Check those insulators folks.

....and the 350z/370z is not everywhere?!?!