Mike C

My 72 has the vertical mounts as did the last one. They have been converted to studs from bolts because the bolts had stripped. (Too many broken 5 speeds...) I have a modified mount in my car now for the T5. Both of the 73's I had were equipped with the "late" mount. My take is it is cheaper and easier for them to do the later mount. The early one is two large, fairly complicated, stampings welded together and a leaf spring. And the leaf spring is bushed on either end making the mount equal in damping to the later design. Plus you have the cush of the leaf.

Could be sinuses as well. Upper respiratory infections can also jack with tear ducts and your ear canal when all that crap is running out. Do you have sinus pain? MRI should answer all the Q's. BUT I'm no Dr.... hope all is well.

There are two smaller iterations of the motor. One is a 5.3 liter and the other I believe is 4.8. Both found in trucks. A cam swap along with rockers should pump the 5.3 up to close to what the LS1 output is stock. Most truck motors are iron block.

I have a Mcleod sprung hub street/strip disc in my Camaro. I think it was the 100 series? Been in there for 17 years. My first trip to the track with the 4 speed and I was having all sorts of shifter problems. (Been driving it for weeks on the street with naught.) I left the line at about 2500 rpm and it bogged. So I just mashed the loud pedal 'til the tach hit 6k and just stepped off the clutch. The car kinda' hopped and bounced but started down the track. About half way, a monster cloud appeared behind me.... seems I was stuck in 3rd gear and smoking the clutch! Figured it was toast so I just stayed in it. (19 years old...) Ran a 15.30 at 95 mph running 3rd the whole way with 3.31 gears. Anyhow, solved the shifter woes and the disc eventually became less grabby... But long story short, I will definitely run more Mcleod discs!

I have the HF ones, and they are worth the $80. But http://www.tireskates.com are MUCH better. I have one set of the 8x16 6000# and one of the 8x16 8000#.

Congrats on a successful trip! Now if you can score an overdrive, expect 28 MPG! (That's what my friends 305 TPi powered '74 'vette gets, and it ran 13.97 in Houston!)

They have a tiny reciprocating assembly. 5.0 litre V12 for instance, with an 8000 rpm redline. And usually pretty steep compression rations. A serious high rpm V8 can rev up like that, but it's not as driveable as the larger number of cylinders. Two different ideas about how to get there. All of those extra cylinders, valves (especially since a lot are 4 valve per cylinder DOHC.) and to price and complexity. 48 valves in a 12 cylinder Ferrari, 16 in a Z06. Ferrari is 5 liters, Z06 is seven. Both make 500 hp. That's the real number to focus on! One of the amazing things about the Z06 is the power it makes without multi-valve cylinder heads and OHC. This keeps the price way down. And should help in reliability is well both because fewer parts are used, and a lower rpm to achieve same power output.

Like John said, several good books out there on porting in general and "How to Hot Rod and Race your Datsun" about L series specific. Forget the Dremel. Porting heads with a Dremel is like mowing a football field with a 16" trim mower...

Thanks John!

I got my driveshaft for my 85 12mm 3.54 R200 with '78 flange. I had it made with the 1310 GM rear joint and Nissan front joint using the 26 spline 1.375 diamter Nissan slip yoke. Fits great, looks trick. BUT the OEM bolts are too short to go through the adapter. At least if you want to use nuts... Anybody know what vehicle to source donor bolts from at the parts counter?

Resonator is probably more descriptivly an attenuator. It is another muffling device that changes the resonant frequency of the exhaust eliminating drone and irritating noise in general. I think I'd do it with a 3" exhaust.

MSD can be fired either way. Just using a magnetic pickup, or using a module. At least in some distributors. I wouldn't bet on you having any luck using the module as a trigger if yours won't fire correctly currently however. Go to MSD site and check out different ways of wiring up a 6A to a GM HEI.

Awesome. Car looks great. Right hand drive? Ahh, down under. Cool. I ordered my driveshaft for my car Thursday. Been 2 1/2 years since mine moved.... BUT ONLY ONE MORE WEEK! Can't wait to see video of it on the road.

Check out Trevor's links above and see the dimensions. The seal size is important because it matches the bushing in the tailshaft that supports the yoke. 1.375 is tiny compared to the other 26 spline yokes that use the 1310 joint. Once again, you can always reduce the OD of the Mopar yoke on a lathe, this seems to be the easiest way to get the large joint on the Nissan trans. If I was serious about making big L series power, I'd look into gettin a Ford WC box and figureing out how to make the Nissan input shaft work. The SVO Mustang appears to have the same gear ratios as the L6 T5. I don't know if it is a WC box or not. Also not sure about the Ford case. Need to try and score me a Ford case to compare it to the Nissan one and if it will bolt to the removeable bellhousing.

I know the FoMoCo mod motor is wide, but wider than a big block Cheby? Actually, I've seen Hemi powered S30's. Surely the mod motor ain't wider than an Elephant?

Why not Tech? Seems like you already have ties to Lubbock, and they have a good Engineering school. And they are a reasonable size division one school with those resources and in-state tuition. I have two useless liberal arts degrees, one from Tech and one from UT, but I had just a great time going to school at Tech. Stick with the Engineering degree and you'll never regret it!

The 26 spline is not the problem. The 1.375 seal size is. No other slip yoke that uses this spline uses this seal. You can get one for an A904 and have the OD machined down and use the 1310 u-joint, or you can have the tailshaft bored for an oversize bushing in order to use the Mopar slip yoke. As noted above, I just decided to use the Nissan yoke and they would ship today. If I ever have more than an NA 6 banger it may become an issue at which point I will revisit.

This is a very odd size slip yoke. Why they didn't use a Ford or Jeep output spline I do not know. So.... I decided to go ahead and have the shaft built with the Nissan joint in the front and the Chevy/neapco setup in the back. If and when I do a V8 conversion, I'll just put a new yoke on the driveshaft at that time.

Thanks for the help. I called driveline guy with the numbers. The one on the Newstar site was mis-represented at 26 splines, was 27. The Mopar one, the seal diameter is wrong. (Meaning that if won't fit the tailshaft bushing.) Anybody else? The jeep one seems the logical choice since so many T4/T5 were used in Jeeps. I find it hard to believe somebody would spec a different tailshaft bushing, but you never know!

I am having (finally) a driveshaft built for my 240Z with an 83 280ZX Turbo T5. The yoke I have is junk so I need a new driveshaft. I've been talking to http://www.wencodriveshafts.com and we are having trouble finding a slip yoke. I want to build a beefed up shaft using 1310 joints and the Neapco adaper on the R200. The T5 is some goofy 26 spline size that he cannot find a slip yoke for and the big joints. One option is to turn down the OD of the 26 spline slip yoke he does have/can get, and that may be what has to happen. I REALLY don't (won't) want to pull the trans and have the tailshaft bored for an oversize slip yoke bushing. Anybody with more info on a custom driveline for a T5 in a first gen Z? Source or part #'s would rock! If I can get info tomorrow I can have the shaft by early next week.

Pretty new to cars, huh? TRW has been around almost as long as the car! Federal Mogul, SPeedPro and TRW are all tied together now somehow. Or SpeedPro is spun off from TRW? Not sure exactly, but TRW is an OEM supplier and makes good parts.

GM is pretty much GM. Same powertrain in 1/2 ton trucks as 3/4 ton vans for the most part. You can get a de-tunded Duramax in the new ones...

I need to work on describing skills I think. LIke you say, length of the shaft from the pivot into the bushing in the transmission. The 5 speeds from the boneyard had different lengths than the 4 speed shifters I had. Maybe the 75-78 4 speeds and the later 5 speeds can use the same one? But my 240 4 speed shifter was definitely different length.

I think all the Nissan trucks were 6 lug. All the ones I've seen from the 70's and 80's at least. I put a 5 speed in my 240 from a ZX, 79 I think but maybe not! Junkyard ya' know. But the 4 speed shifter would not work. In some gears yes, but others no. The length from the center of the pivot to the bottom bushing was different. About 1/8" if I remember. I cut the ZX pivot off and welded the 4 speed shifter to it. This worked pretty good. This was my second one. The first ZX shifter I heated and bent to the shape of the 4 speed shifter. But the ball barely came up above the console! Talk about short throw...

I made the mistake of too many super modified cars at one time. Two Camaros with monster gears and high compression, and a giant tired 4x4. I had nothing to drive! Pick and choose the hot rod. (My vote is for the Malibu) Put a powerful mostly stock small block in the Z. Buy a complete 96-98 Vortec 5.7and add a small aftermarket cam, keep the FI. THis is the easy way to go since it uses all the JTR mounts. Zero fab beyond the book. Or even better, an LS series 5.3, one of the 285 hp motors from a 1/2 ton truck. Swap cams again and go to town! Both of these motors should be available low mileage for around $1000. Everybody wants the all alulminum LS1, so the truck motors are only sold for replacement. Another smokin' bargain is an iron head LT1. Pocket port the iron heads and add an aftermarket cam. My buddies '94 Impala put 297 hp at the wheels with no other mods except cold air and cat back. His pal with the '96 kept the stock cam but put AFR heads and a $600 set of headers on his motor for only 260 at the wheels. Any of these setups should put the Z solidly in the 12's, and be easy on the wallet as well as on the hard parts. A stock world class 5 speed should hold up to any of these motors rebuilt with the 5speeds.com countershaft stabilizer and an aftermarket shifter. Just don't speed shift or clutch dumps! While it's fun to dream about building the $10,000 supercharged 302, at least in my experience, if you want to have more than one car a more realistic expense chart is needed. Especially considering Uncle Sam's paycheck!