1 tuff z

finally decided to part with the air dam, but wanted to give first opportunity to those in this thread that showed interest. please either pm or email me if still interested. shipping shouldn't be too painful as it separates into 3 pieces... thanks, david

bartman, you're...famous! congrats on getting your z in sport z.

pete, i stopped by their place about a month ago, met andy [grandson of torsen founder vernon gleasman] and keith [andy's dad]. keith took me for a ride in their 350z 'demo' car. went through some of the same demo's that you can see on their website [sans the snow stuff of course] and it is a pretty amazing unit. i know that they plan to have the production isotorqe diff ready by late fall-mid winter and will be offered thru nismo [yes, i also mentioned that we all heard they closed shop but...]. anyway, i made a second trip there with my 240z and a spare q45 diff-to see if they have an application for it. they immediately plopped it on a bench, pulled the cover, stub axles and started taking measurements. not holding my breath but should know soon if it will work. the isotorque advantages are numerous-no vsld to open when hot, no clutches to replace, quiet, more fuel efficient than conventional lsd, can take a pounding and...based on my conversations with andy & keith, much more affordable than anything else on the market today! i'll post here once i have concrete info.

no and yes. it should be fine for; drag, auto-x and some mild road course track events. most [me included] have issues with less than 1/2 tank on a road course when you are exposed to long left or right hand sweepers. you find that the fuel pump will starve or cavitate and the engine will stumble.

steve, you are certainly correct-that ebay seller [patrick] does excellent work as does another 'zswitchman' [lives in my area and restored my combo switches as well as another complete harness on a 1970 resto]. i don't think you'll find a new harness anywhere anymore. here's a link to one of zswithman's auctions. he's available for contact to work directly and warranties his jobs as well! jim, i can provide a phone number for him if you'd like. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-71-SERIES-ONE-HEADLIGHT-WIPER-SWITCH-MINT_W0QQitemZ320275182765QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320275182765&_trksid=p3911.m14.l1318

some interior pics. custom enclosure [doubles as a strut reinforcement] 10 jl sub and amp for my beats... my friend also felt it necessary to customize the spare tire cover. still able to access the spare [now a 16" compact tire from the old rear drive maxima-to fit over my brakes]. pardon the not so clean interior... the microphone is for when i attend track days. no wind noise and pulls in a bit of gear whine and exhaust noise.

i use these in my car. redrilled both the panels and receiving body tabs to approx 7/16". they work great, are easily removable, pin and rivet stay together [for the most part] and are relatively inexpensive. got them from a local place that specializes in fasteners, i believe they run about $10 for 15 of them. 1st pic is a close up of the pin 'open', then 'closed' and finally installed. yes, my panels are covered in a tweed fabric, done many years ago by a good friend. he's so anal, all the panels-when fitted show a continuous orientation of the lines of the fabric. of course, i had to then line up all the fastner heads... i cleaned all the plastic panels [after resizing the holes for the new fasteners and accounting for the fabric] then we wiped them all down with a solvent. made the plastic tacky prior to then spraying them with some 3m adhesive and applying the tweed. i love the results and it makes my z a bit more...unique:icon32:

i've watched this thread for a bit and want to add my 2 cents. there are many brake 'kits' available for our z cars some are for those with lesser wrenching experience and some for greater abilities some z owners prefer to do their research and assemble kits [due to limited budget or because they enjoy it or have the time/expertise to do so] others prefer to save the time [either due to limited time or the ability to make more $ at their job or they simply don't know where start] it is very important to begin with the end in mind=determine how your z will be driven [track, drag, auto-x, street, etc] then go with the upgrade that best suits your needs posting comments to the effect that you can do it much cheaper yourself is what i would consider negative and should be refrained from. if you do a bit of research, you'll see that the vendor referred to in this thread offers a very competitively priced kit with top notch new [not remanufactured] components. i am not biased to this vendor but trying to keep with the spirit of why hbz exists. i'm done.

myron, i'd suggest removing the prop valve first. no / low cost and fairly easy to do. see how it works. if you still don't have enough then go with the pads.

the splitter, so i am sure that i understand correctly-like a duckbill that attaches to my air dam-at the bottom? if so, that will be my next project. more alum, and make a piece that acts like an undertray. from the air dam back to the crossmember... thanks to everyone for the compliments! i always feel comfortable posting here on hbz, as it's a forum where [little or] no bashing goes on. more of acceptance and constructive feedback.

updated and pic posted in the first post.

early last year, after spending much time reading and [trying to] digesting the wind tunnel results i came up with this idea. purchased some aluminum [scrap], laid out a pattern, transferred it and voila`! used a jig saw to cut it, hand filed the major irregularities, measured [at least twice] drilled/countersunk holes and finally mounted it. sanded it with 1500 to give it a brushed finish [easier to maintain than polished]. my thoughts were to extend the spoiler to clean up the rear of the car a bit, plus i was thinking it would add a few visual hp's:-D. overhead shot added. i determined that for the first 2 attachments [beginning from the outer edges] i'd drill through and use some sort of keeper, the others screw directly into the urethane. i would up using a #10 ss phillips screw, 1" for the drill thru's and 3/4" for the others. countersunk the holes and seemed to work ok. pics...

myron, i've been working on the same thing for a few years now. factory prop valve and safety valve removed, mm front calipers w/13" rotors, 240sx rears, no prop valve at all. hawk hp+ rear and had been running the kvr pads that ross sells with the setup up front. that set up has worked very well at the track but i can lock the fronts on the street [until the hawks get warmer]. my next step is to go hawk hp+ up front and if i still am not feeling enuf rears i may purchase these rears; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135157&goto=newpost we'll see how the next track event goes [mid aug at watkins glen]. if i go to the new rear setup, i'd hope that i'd need to reinstall the wilwood prop valve. try removing your prop valve all together, you'll find that doing so will allow a bit more rear brake-at least i did.

found this on craigslist, decided it was time for my 95 accord to find a new home to make room for this car. 92 240sx convertible. 84k miles, a/t [the only way they came], no winters, no rust and in pretty decent condition. top and rear window are in great shape. haven't washed, waxed or cleaned the interior as of yet. need to do some light mechanical work as well-oil change, tranny service, fuel filter and a few other little things. they only made 600 of the 92's in red, total about 8300 convertibles made over a 3 year period. overall me likey! my new daily driver!