1 tuff z

bill, the maxima spare is about 2-3" narrower than what you used to stuff into the spare well. it'll probably work perfect in your 'padded' spare well. david

bill, i've switched to the L24 engined maxima spare tire. it's a 16" wheel with compact tire, fits in the z spare wheelwell and works great. pretty easy to find in jy's. david

dave, i just sent u an email via your quick510 email address. david

dave, glad to hear is coming together. i'll z u in about a week! david

i was at the glen yesterday and the drivers side inner boot split on my 280zx cv axle [on my 73 240]. i pulled both axles and the boots all show dry rot in the "valleys". i took them to the place here that everyone seems to recommend [i've also had work done there before] and they think the inner boot will be a problem due to the wide band that clamps the boot. it's not like the other boots that have the ~1/4" wide band clamp, it's about 2.5-3" wide and 'rolled' at each end. anyone have any ideas? gotta get this fixed before track day-in less than 2 weeks! thanks, david

mike, check this ebay seller's stuff. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-inch-y-pipe-stainless-steel-high-flow-magnaflow-10798_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33633QQitemZ7990369682QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaggggggggggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, u suck dave! lol, just kidding. can't wait to see your ride-only 2 1/2 weeks and counting! david

norm, what year was the ta? thanks, david

i did the dielectric grease thing when i first got the car. my wife thought i was nuts squeezin this semi-clear goo in all the connectors... anyway, turned the key on to check the ign with my fluke meter and the vacuum pump keeps running. so i listen and hear this very faint hissing...hmmm. after about 5 minutes i finally find a small split in one of the 1/4" vacuum hoses. put in a new one and viola, she'z runnin like a thorobred again!

hey all, have been having some troubles with our 83 turbo zx. i'll try to detail the symptoms as best i can. a few weeks back began running poorly. temps in low 90's with hi humitidy. pulls decently to around 3000rpm then begins to falter-like short on fuel. also anything past ~3/4 throttle and she falls on her face [actually feels like someone turned off the key]. i changed the fuel filter, problem gone...temporarily but so was heat wave-temps back to low 80's. back to heat wave problem back. got so bad that it wouldn't do much more than idle. change to a spare ign coil i had. again, problem solved...temporarily. also, during all above instances, sometimes under acceleration i'd hear a popping under the hood-very similar to backfiring through a carburator. seems to run better when the engine is slightly warmed up...worse when fully warmed up. i checked all the electrical connections that i could get to but don't know what to do next... help!

what about the new mustang taillights? it appears they they mount flat and the size is close to what the z's have now...

my mom [yes my mom] had a yamaha rd 200, dad had a kawasaki 350 twin, both 2 strokers. i later bought my first road bike-in 1980, a 73 kawasaki 500 h1 3 cyl 2 stroker. handled like crap but was a blast to drive. like a big motocross bike on the street [sounded like one too with the expansion chambers i had on it]. dave, let us know how the virgin drive goes and b sure to post exhaust pics!@!

i purchased the jtr 1.75" primary shorties for the ls1 swap, uncoated. i live close to swain technologies and will use them. i did some die grinding on the collectors/flanges that bolt to the headers as well as some on the flange that bolts to the head itself. overall nice pieces though [made by sanderson for jtr]. david

i purchased my entire brake setup from ross. the shipping folks must have tossed around the box a bit and caused some nice dimples in my new rotors. contacted ross, we came up with a quick solution to the problem! just like a business should work, but most don't these days.

dale, u gonna make it to the convention next month here in upstate ny?? sunday is the pre-registration [save some money] cutoff. would be great to see 2 ls1 z's at watkins glen [dave's quick240 will be there]!! david http://www.zccaconvention.com

that sounds like it. i'll check it out tonite. thanks!

does anyone know where the door lock module resides in the zx's? i have an 83 and can't seem to locate it. help always appreciated!!

mike, i still have all the engine bay wiring from my donor car-2001 ta ls1 ram air ws6 t56. hit in the right front and it severed several wires that were close to the pcm. previous owner-get this...stripped, twisted and scotch taped the wires together! anyway i still have it because i don't know what i'll need to keep - planning on ordering a harness from speartech shortly. let me know if you're interested, i can send a pic if u want. david

bartman, let me know when the beast is running and if you feel the factory feed & return lines are sufficient. thanks!

bartman, glad to see the ls1 tank finally has a good home [it didn't like that trans am much anyway]. keep us posted on your progress. btw, what diameter fuel lines will you be using? david

bill, i picked up a kirbin shifter for my t56. nice construction and i like the fact that it has adjustable stops to help prevent bending the shift forks. problem is that it remains in the box... david

i'm running indiv tilton masters for the brake and have the cable driven balance bar which allows me to adj f/r bias on the fly. i only recently removed the factory proportioning valve and safety valve-that eased my pedal effort. still higher effort than boosted brakes. i went to the tiltons because i didn't have room for the zx master in my z when i upgraded my brakes. you'll see my supercharger is in the way! pics in my gallery-cut/paste the link in my signature.

joey, as u look to the bottom of the 'reply to thread' page, under additional options there's a button-attach files. just follow the prompts, pretty straightforward. david

joey, can u post a pic and the parts numbers for us?!

i have 2 images i found [one from joey] and the other i'm not sure where i got it. i'll try to upload them both...also, here's some verbage i found earlier when searching for the same thing. "[How to set up the ls1 without a/c or power steering. Essentially only the water pump and crankshaft pulley. The a/c uses a separate belt, so you can’t bypass it, you can only remove it, but there is no point because the ac disengages at WOT, but you CAN bypass the power steering pulley for a noticeable gain in performance. With this shorter belt, a Gates brand belt, #K060520 [may be a carquest part #] route the belt around the tensioner, under the water pump, around the alternator, under the crank, back up to the tensioner. First of all forget about the a/c, its a separate belt. leave it alone, don’t touch it. As for the main serpentine belt, swap it for a shorter belt when you race. Route the belt as usual but skip the idler and power steering pulley. It should only be wrapped around the: tensioner, water pump, alternator, CS pulley, enjoy!]." david