Careless

Also, Marc, I know someone with a block that could use a new home. It's rather rusted out but it's got enough meat on it to be bored and reused. Crank will need to be inspected, but he's trying to get rid of it, as he's moving to Japan, so let me know if you're interested. It's just the block and whatever else is in it. Everything else you have on your RB26 will bolt right up =) All you would need is a new tensioner/idlers, timing belt (numerous options), crank collar, bearings, piston/rod combo, and drill out the headstud holes to 12mm to accept RB26 head. bore and hone it, and pop on that head, and you're good to go. You will also need to grind down some humps on the top of the block near the deck to accept an exhaust flange for an RB26. Also not a big deal. Take a grinder to it and smoothen it out when you're done. This way, you can probably use your entire ancillary setup and just change out the long block and be back in business relatively quickly. New RB26 headgasket requires no modification either. Heck, you could probably build up the block, check the compression, and fasten the head and be back up in less than a week. For you, it's swapping a bunch of stuff that's going to take the longest, because you can do all the long and hard work outside of the engine bay at the engine shop or in your garage on a bench WHILE still driving your RB26 (until you take the head off to check compression) You might have to lower your mounts a touch.... also not a big deal. You can get the proper idler/tensioner and strengthened belt from Rob @ RIPSNZ for a good price. Block needs drilling to accept tensioner stud, not a big deal at all. You have a perfect setup to go towards RB30 if you really want, and you'll make about 15-20% more torque and power at about the same RPM as RB26/25. But isn't 600 good for you? LOL.

Better option is as Stealth-Z mentioned. And it will be hard to filter out all the good information in that lengthy Skylines Australia thread. There are some RB30 users here. Check out RIPSNZ 9 second RB thread, Rob'll show you whats up =) 20,000 for the OS Giken 3 Litre and having to buy custom parts from them in the event of a failure (unless it uses two RB26 type headgaskets) is a shitty deal. I'm sure the engine is built to perform, but look at what RIPS is doing on his website, it will make you think twice about OS Giken.

happy birthday to the both of us, then! SAME DAY!

That's great that it fits flush Wondering if the S14 would be the same cause thats what I gots. can't wait to blast my car in the spring. If I could make a suggestion though, mull. You've most likely thought about this before mounting, but have you determined the driveshaft angle, or have you mounted the transmission/engine and the differential to see if it's within the allowable tolerance? I've read the thread with the laser-alignment DIY tool, and that should help you along the way if you care to use it and haven't aligned it yet.

Skyline GXi lulz.

dude that would be nutts if you painted a Z like that!

remember to keep that pilot's license in the wallet, Rob! LOL, that thing flies!

well if you get an alternate MAF, then you have to rom-tune the stock ems to reconfigure it's data acquisition from the MAF or use a piggyback system, which will start to add up after a couple of them are piggybacked onto one another. and from there it becomes a guessing game, and not quite a proper tune. but it's ok for moderate levels of power.

Yes, I'll have to add the MAF and TPS swap info for sure, but I need to trust someone else on the photography and steps, and I'll draw the diags. I'm not running MAF so it will be hard for me to do that part. As for the list of hard to get RB Parts. I have no problem doing that, but I'm definately not advertising for anyone. If people or shops contribute, I'll include their website and number or email if they want. But for hard to find parts a simple "name" insert is all they're going to get. people can do google searches if they really want to find out where to get the parts. This weekend I might bring all my stuff upto my parents house to take pics of everything I've bought for the engine thus far. =D

thanks Jangholt. I think for the extra CF used on the 280 panel to make it extend the width of the entire rear section, the price is right on part with the one sold here both look like great buys =)

It is, i sent the link to 3 car guy friends and they all knew about it

hahahaha. yeah apparently some dudes use chevy rods on RB30's too, but by the time you machine them to accept the proper bearing, cost runs up and it's not economical or beneficial in comparison to aftermarket RB rods. So would the 3SGTE rods work in this application? I say go for it!

I think those are a generic type of design that many companies have mimiced in the past. They're probably a set of American Racing 5 star blade type wheels or something. Can't really tell what they are, or if they're an original design or a knockoff, somewhat like Rewinds, Watanabe's, etc etc. Are you trying to find the name so that you can advertise them better? Ive seen a lot of lowrider trucks with those types

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL I'm not sure if that's fake, and maybe he's just really stupid, but he'd be better off routing a hydrogen powered engine's exhaust to a small Inline 4. And even that might not work, but atleast he'll have tried something new, and not entirely stupid. ROFL

AMEN! That's why I'm building an RB30DE and that's why NZEDER is too! :biggrin:

Offset grinding doesn't mean no welding, unless the big ends of the rod are smaller than the L28 rod ends. IF they're close in size, then offset grinding still might mean welding on the opposite side of the offset cut, right? I mean, you don't want an elliptical rod/crank journal, so welding on the opposite side to grind into round would be essential in most cases.

yeah, unless you have a powerFC or something that makes use of the MAF then i wouldn't bother with getting another one right away. see if you can scrounge up some more money before you buy the MAF set. you can do more with the standalone

She's a beaut!!!!!!!!!

Hi Steve, Any chances of a 280z set comin' up?

if you don't want to use VLC and want to play these vids through your existing media player, try the CCCP... google it its the combined community codec pack Basically, it's a pack of all the codecs used on community sites dedicated to movie and media encryption, ripping, and playback. It will allow you to play the most common and the not so common forms of media, because sometimes there is no option but to encode a certain way to retain certain aspects, so this should cover everything across most online communities of that nature. And it's not a SUPER HEAVY codec pack that slows down the loading of your system. It's actually pretty good =) Cheers

That looks great!

and he's on here too? wtf, that's dirt.

True enough, but I think I'll make it available on my website and have links to hybridz, and people can forward me changes to make on the site, and they will get linked back to discussion threads here if it's at all acceptable. you're right about this forum, way more information than what i've found elsewhere, but still somewhat disorganized. but then again, so am i. Question for everyone, though. Are there any sections that I should add, that way I can gather my research and so that I'm not leavign anything out with my own build?

hey jpuga. flares are lookin good =) surprised i didn't see this thread already. I'm going to be making similar flares, if it works for you, let me know what problems you ran into with the design.

then they might share this diagram got it from cardomain, here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/397102/4