Careless

Ok, so getting more info on the SR20 S15 6speed. changing bellhousings is a no-go, as the case is apparently a 3 piece, not a 2 piece. and the bolt plate on the inside of the bellhousing is somewhat different and it will "definately' not bolt upto an RB20 bellhousing or RB motor. BOOOOOOOOO! (for me, anyways)

shiiiiiiit. 1000 bucks for the 6 speed transmission. meh. i guess i'll go with it and go with the FS5R30A if the 6 speed breaks. They cost the same price, but the weight/extra gear/close ratio gets me =)

That's part of the reason why I want to go with an SR20 6 speed and RB20 bellhousing. Lightweight, closer gear ratios, same flywheel/clutch. That, and the weight savings of not having a forced induction system hanging off my motor should allow me to save a couple of hundred pounds, which should put me a hair under the factory weight when everything is said and done. 300 - 350 hp in a cruiser/light track-duty car should be fun with close gear ratios and 7600 rpm +

you could always just pile rubber tires underneath the car so that it stays put when working inside if it's on the roti. heck, even some jack stands on either side, if you've got some 6 or 12 tons. =) not a big deal. some people are just too scared

If he ends up on hybridz, he'd probably swap in an RB or a L28ET with wolf v500 from ron, a machined head from paul, and some lightened pistons from brian. then it will end up like 40% of the projects... incomplete

From the hopped up SR20's i've had the joy of riding in, the power starts to come on really early. between 2800 and 3200 for a mid sized turbo. It doesn't stop making power up to about 6000 - 6800. Some don't die off even passed 7500. It's all a mater of turbo selection, really. I'm not a die-hard SR20 fan, but there are some folks in here who have done the swap in a Z or in another car. but it may be a good idea to go to a 240sx board as well. zilvia.net, nico forums, freshalloy, and ziptied have some cool projects goin on.

download a program called GearCalc. It's free. all you need to do is take a note of the diff gear that you're using in your diff casing, and put that as the Final Drive variable in the program. It will tell you your various top speeds (for redline RPM that you choose) in each gear as well as the top speed of the car itself. It even tells you the shift points at which you can drop back into powerband to initiate a faster acceleration in situations where every ounce of power is needed. Neat program, check it out in order to find out what transmission you want to use. I think I might go with the 6 speed if I can find it.

There's a link on the Acura TSX forums illustrating how many ml or fl.oz of oil you'll collect in the oil separators. it's nasty to think that your intake tract is being coated in that stuff. Naturally the intake starts to get covered from oil and the oil works its way back all the way to the filter. Apparently, this lowers intake temps just a touch because gasoline cannot adhere to the pits and valleys of the port walls, which is why porting and polishing is not a complete polish, right? Something to think about. probably not a whole lot, but just a little.

next time the 2 minute counter comes up, try clearing your cookies. you can probably bypass the counter and have another shot at the refresh

The water pump is, however the oil pump is not. The oil pump has a higher pressure. And apparently has a slightly weaker metal casing due to some metallurgy lab results, but to be honest, I think it's a waste of time even worrying about that. Some people have had RB26 N1 pumps go for years, some for days. Same with stock pumps. Only way to be extra sure is to drop 1000 on a tomei or jun. I'm going with N1 oil pump and standard water pump. And for the price, ARP studs should be done at head-gasket change. it's just better in the long run.

I'm also wondering whether the RB20 bell housing will mate to the s15 6 speed bell housing, and will it be able to use the same flywheel, since the RB20/25 are interchangeable. I wouldn't mind trying one of those transmissions. =)

A good idea is to get a small in-line air filter for a compressor that has the blue silica balls. they turn dark pink when they've trapped too much moisture, and they work exceptionally well at crystallizing the oil so that it's trapped and doesn't go into the intake. Plus they're small, and can be found anywhere. Making one with baffles, a filtered exhaust port, and a draining petcock valve is probably better in the long run, though.

is that a coolant passage cover that's bolted up to the block? that's weird.

Cam angle sensor, Crank angle sensor. They work in relation to one another, anyways

z32 cas not the same? could find a connector at the junkers i'll look at FAST and see if they have the connector there somewhere. I was looking in the Ignition section and not the Electrical section

it works fine on the iPod Touch as well. But it would be easier to navigate if there was a mobile portal. Zooming in and double tapping the screen to get in closer sometimes triggers link that I don't want to click on. I'm sure someone has had the same interference with the tap-screen on any device that contains one. But it's not a big deal. If there was a simple patch for vBulletin that would allow it, it would be cool. I've edited vBulletin PHP, but this would have to be an extension of the code, and not a simple step by step modification. But extensions could sometimes be easier

couldn't find it in the parts number listing on the FAST System. hmmmm. can you post a pic of what it looks like?

Happy Belated to ScottyGNZ

Does HybridZ or vBulletin have a mobile friendly portal that allows me to view all the posts on a mobile phone in a properly sized format, rather than small format with zoom? something like mobile.hybridz.org or something? Just wondering. iPod Touch is too cool

Happy Birthday, ya old bag! I know someone who machines and polishes walkers and canes. would you like his contact info? There may be a new business venture within your grasp. The products would go through a similarly rigorous testing phase on the in-house equipment as your current product does, which is something you could stand by when marketing them at the old folks homes within your "hood". LOL. I kid, I kid. Congrats! I hope you have a great birthday!

Are you pulling your SDS system out and going back to a stock R33 wiring setup to install a better plug-in system? I'm a little confused here. LOL

sorry yes, you are correct. I mixed it up with the 83 T-5. Thanks for clearing that up, I'll correct my post. EDIT: looks like i can't edit my post. oh well, the info is now in the thread. thanks for the correction!

You must have a good set, as from what I've read on numerous RB boards, people are trying weird things like using windsheild sealant and nail polish to close up the weathered cracks on their coil boots and all other types of evil-scientist type crap. This all stems from people not wanting to dish out on those blue split-fire coils. Heck, if i were to dish out on those, I would go with MSD Reds for LSx engines. They're the same price, higher voltage- hotter spark, and you get two free replacements have to say though, you've been getting some impressive numeros with your setup.

Far as I remember reading on this forum, LSx coils have 4 wires, 2 are used as signal/sense wires. You've contributed a lot of information to this thread, many thanks

Doesn't get much better'n'at! Evil stuff, Rob. Glad to see it's almost done.