Careless

with a 600hp land missile? hell yeah it is!

It's nothing to worry about right now. you arent taking apart your engine are you?! if so, when stuffing it with new goodies, you have to balance the rotating assembly and might have to shave off several grams of metal or add some to certain parts so that the weight of the entire crank shaft and all it's roundy-roundy bits are all balanced as well. It creates less harmonic vibrations especially in higher RPM ranges, since it's vibrating way more. flywheel balance and harmonic damper balancer are things that people do when balancing the rotating assembly. Some don't include those two parts, some do. I'm including my damper (crank pulley) as well as my flywheel and whatever clutch casing I get. Obviously the disc wont be balanced, as it's not directly attached to the flywheel, but the rest of the assembly will be balanced. It's only something to worry about when putting an engine together, not necessarily when upgrading an existing setup.

looks a lot like my 4 speed, but can't say for sure. i've only ever seen the bottom of it, and from my shifter hole, it looks as it would from the top. but I think the clutch fork hole is on the opposite side, no? id like to know too. perhaps its a 5speed (not BW T5 though) this website shows similarities: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/BorgWarner.htm

hmmm Ive heard good things about ACT and Clutchmaster. Be wary of eCLutchmaster, knockoff brand A nissan enthusiast that i chat with says he would never go back to a single plate clutch again, due to having a twinny but twins are expensive. however, the flywheel is integrated into the housing case, and it's also lightweight around 11 to 15 lbs, compared to what...27 lbs of standard flywheel weight? For my build, I'm just gonna buy a relative good Spec 2 clutch, or a JGY version, and see how that fares. if it sucks, I'll upgrade to a twinny with as close flywheel weight as possible so it stays as close to the balanced weight as possible.

Hi doods, Just wondering if Nismo parts are SFI Certified at all, or if it matters much to most of you guys running a scatter shield anyway.

Hey everyone. I'm in need of someone who is keen on RB26 head work and block preparation to glance over a PDF i have created that has a mind map. But I ask that the person does not send it to anyone else. I just need to see if there are important things I've forgot (heck, I know there is!) Any volunteers? I'm not asking for additional information, just topics that should be touched on. Trying to mind map over 100 topics... you start to forget a couple here and there.

All clutches with an integrated flywheel or a combo kit are a hefty price, but it may save you money in the end. The N/A Z32 clutch MAY or MAY NOT fit, depending on who makes it. That's what I've been told, some clutch casings have weird designs that make the casing come in contact with the bellhousing, or something to that effect. But there are good exedy and spec clutches, as well as ACT and Clutchmaster for the skyline engines, so you don't really have to look overseas. Sure, the JDM clutches look different with their billet cut casings and all that, but ask yourself if you really need that...

but BJ, paint doesn't make it go any faster... That is one of my colour choices for my car too, just deciding still. Looks great!

RE: the flywheels. I had messaged ebay user: mx83*gx81 I had asked what types of clutches he had that he has sold with his flywheel to other buyers. Keep in mind that his flywheels are not SFI approved, and the one that I bought from JPS Trading company is EXACTLY the same as the one he sells. It looks EXACTLY as the one in his picture. He then proceeded to call me "dumb" for buying a flywheel from hong-kong (jps is from japan, and so is the product), and then he banned me from bidding on his merchandise. You will find assholes like that, and he's most likely peddling cheaper ♥♥♥♥ anyways. JPS Trading doesn't have 10,000 transactions with 99% positive feedback for nothing. Calling someone dumb for not buying "your" product, and assuming that the alternative choice was "cheezy junk" anyway is not something I appreciate in a business model, especially when his similar product doesn't seem to carry any certification, and neither does mine. I think he's annoyed at the fact that I paid 260 + 85 shipping, when he's selling his for 320 + 30 bucks shipping or something. I am personally going to go with a Spec Stage 2 clutch if I can find one for a good price. I have a friend with a 355 SBC in his 3rd gen camaro, and he has a T56 with a Spec stage 1 clutch, and he said it's amazing but he should have went with the spec stage 2. His car has roughly 350/350 hp/tq, and he's a car guy I trust, so for me, that's a good indication of their quality, considering he's been through MANY clutches in that car because it seems to like to eat a lot of parts and he can't seem to lighten the weight of his shoes much

because making the downpipes are not the hard part, it would be trying to get the piping to squirm underneath the s30 chassis in a fitting manner that would be the challenge. If you're going to modify an exhaust made for another car completely, you might as well start from scratch and buy an HKS Muffler or something. Atleast that's what I think.

might as well go tube chassis, dude. LOL just use the panels if you can salvage them

Nice pics, the flares look a lot like what I had in mind Heck, since you're doing such a great job on the flares, go a head and mold some styrofoam and build yourself a nice front bumper =)

i try not to do the whole hear-say thing, but a couple of friends tell me that the RB25 clutches on Ebay are usually rated about 100 - 200 ft lbs more capacity than they can actually hold if it's a high number like 600 - 700. The regular ones are @ 390 to 450ish hp are marketed for about 100 ft.lbs more than what they can take. I guess it's dependent more so on the driver if you use it as a daily grind. But keep yourself free of over estimations from cheap after market brands or ones you haven't had discerning enthusiasts give good input on. I was going to buy a 320ftlbs clutch from JGY Customs, but I MIGHT go with the 390 ft.lbs version. I think for the cash it's worth it. You can also use 300zx N/A aftermarket clutches, they are 240 mm as well. RB20 ones should work too, but the good thing about the N/A Z32 300zx clutches are that well known American made brands are more abundant than even japanese or chinese/taiwanese aftermarket clutches for RB25's or even 300zx z32's as well. Then again I did buy a lightweight "japanese" no name flywheel, but it's a lightweight one piece steel billet, and i've heard good things based on the sellers name on ebay, and also some feedback regarding this flywheel in a current RB25 car too. I would go with one that someone you trust with their driving has told you is good for daily or one that someone on here got for a good price and feels is good. But i would wait for some input on the clutch brands before layin the hammer down. I'm glad that your build is coming together quite quickly, too =) It's fun at this stage, no!?

I have a hatch with louvers too and they're growing on me as well, as a style from that era which I thought looked ok back when I was a kid. I dunno, i might try them on before making my decision.

Well, I could go looking through stickies, but Ive already done a lot of that, and that's what's making me do this website. I hate having to visit a bajillion websites to get information, and I'm sure others do too. I've got mind mapping software now that is very intuitive. It's programmed well enough to write an instructional booklet (and exports to a word file too!) so i'm going to start compiling all my information in there =) Should be able to start that the end of this weekend, got some other projects that need do-age

braaaaap braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap

I was under the impression that it would act more as a secondary Radiator for the hot part of the head at the rear, rather than an intercooler, as it's not really intake air that it's displacing in order to cool. But I guess it's virtually the same thing.

But aside from all the "miscellaneous" sections... regarding the list that I've posted. is there anything that you guys don't see that should be added within each section?

That would definately be a good Idea. that would have to go under a Z specific section of the build though. Adding to that, I'd need input from anyone else who's done such mods. I'd highly consider it.

well he's got the turbos and the head, needs a new clutch though, so 14,000... but the turbos might need some upgradin'! ends up being 16,000 + when you sell some other stuff to get money back. For the proprietary parts, it seems as though going with an RB30E block would be more ideal and possibly just as good.

Here Here! 'grats on gitten' her done, cygnutttts did you pull the engine completely?

No way dude, Don't feel so bad. I've seen them go for about 150 canadian, but they are usually a tad rusty. I got mine for 280 Canadian (what's that? 300 US now!? hehehe)... it's got everything except the diff casing + diff, and brake calipers, both of which aren't that easy to sell seeing as everyone wants upgrades now, and both of which I would replace anyways. Mine is a JDM S14 setup as well, so it has HICAS, and next to no rust. You can read why I want the HICAS just a couple of posts above. S14 HICAS differs slightly. Essentially, you can find a setup that you can install (but not road ready) for around 200 US. Save some cash for a good diff, which comes up on ebay for 300 or so every now and then (OBX if you just wanna thrash for a bit), and get 300zx calipers. Find a local S13/14 board and start doing "WTB" (willing to buy) posts.

Instead of using a coupler for my unit, i took the head piece off the blaster that came from Northern Tool, and screwed it onto a Princess Auto pressure water gun replacement. The tube is longer, and its easier to hold firmly to blast a specific area, and it works great! But you have to be quick with some fluid film or WD40 after drying it off to stop anything from rusting. I found a rusty brake rotor in the back and cleaned up real nice, then wire wheeled it for about 2 minutes, and then applied some fluid film, and it looked somewhat new! I say for 20 bucks, if you're willing to experiment and have a pretty good blaster, its ok! But i think using that aluminum oxide stuff might be better than sand.

I guess that's a more sensible way of looking at it. If you wanna build the car and have immediate fun with it, it's probably the best bet. you can always add EMS later.

hi Bryan, indeed a lot of cars have it in the same location, but make sure your drains are clog free after every season to ensure that it won't back up and drown the ECU. My drains were clogged with so many leaves. Good thing they were dry and showed no signs of moisture though. The reason I mention it is due to the fact that a buddy of mine had an LT1 that got a soaked in a bit of water, and the actual connector going to the body of the ECU was not in the best condition, so the weather seal was somewhat dry or split. Long story short: Fizz. Pop. Carb time. LoL. Just lookin' out. Wouldn't want to see a purdy zee like that stranded on the side of the street, it should always be rollin' =)