Careless

Sorry, I meant to say that it was a remote oil reservoir, not a remote filter location. i was looking at a picture i found yesterday and it seems to be just an external oil reservoir with a crank driven pump and i've convinced my room mate that it's not a dry sump after all. LOL, i don't want you to think the wrong thing. I've seen some dry sump systems in person, just put the wrong word in there by accident. Aside from that, I'm somewhat impressed at the engineering that went into this van. It's got all the neat features of most newer vans and it's probably better built too, considering how long they last and how much it cost Toyota to keep up with. Do you have any links to the TRD Catalogue? I'm assuming it's in a back issue as the previa (or estima) has changed since the first generation greatly.

The 83 turbo z31 as well as the z32 and RB25DE equipped skyline models share the same transmission called the FSR30A. The transmission comes in both 2WD and 4WD versions, so it's possible that the earlier GTRs came with the same transmission, but the 4WD is bulkier and has a diff pan for front differential fluid if i'm not mistaken. The later GTRs came with a Getrag 6 speed

Someone brought it up as an "issue" when it hasn't been covered much because once you're there it becomes apparent what has to be done, and it's not even a small worry, really.

It's ok man. I don't even have the ownership for my car. (getting it exactly 366 days after the day I took physical possession). I see a lot of things on this board and wonder why my car hasn't moved an inch in almost 365 days. Literally. But i'll get to it once I have the ownership for sure. If i had my car blasted, I'd want to work on it more. right now it's too doooorty

BJ, can you give me details on the blast procedure? I'm going to be blasting mine this spring myself =)

how is the tach wired up? there are certain tachs that will read the input correctly without a potentiometer adjustment depending on the way it's wired. If you can borrow one, and use that as a reference to set your idle and cruise RPM, you could adjust the trim pot to match, and you should be ok. Most would adjust by "sound". I don't think that's right. Do you have access to an original tach, or a junkyard tach from a similar motor?

if someone can draw the diagrams by hand and send them to me, I can digitize them with style

I'm sorry if I didn't point out what you might find within your searches. you'll find a lot of information about the 2JZ as well as the RB engines. As for the steering issue, it's not a big issue, therefore it hasn't been covered much other than the power steering transplants in the other technical forum sections. Like I said, many have installed the RB engines in the S30, all without complaints about the steering column, so you shouldn't worry about it. The AC is something you will run into problems with trying to adapt and fit, but again, it might not be that hard. And you could always use an aftermarket system like Vintage Air products, as someone mentioned in another thread. All in all, what I'm saying is don't let the steering rack issue become bigger than it actually is, because it's been solved numerous times. There's probably nothing to even solve, considering no one has made any comments on it.

chips contain a lot of fat. do you want your turbo to be fat? mmmmm... fatty turbo

you should do more searching if you're really going to consider this swap. Everything your asking has been asked before, as well as answered. The steering shaft issue has been solved on every car with an RB and Left-hand drive, so that is not an issue to worry about. Common sense prevails, and take regular precaution and do some test-fitting. Not a big deal. The AC has been installed in at least one known swap as well, so yes, it is possible. There is not that much information on it though, and you'll have to find out who did it and ask them questions. I'm sure they'll be helpful. Everyone on HybridZ is, for the most part. As for the other information you seek, I know it's there if you look because the same question has been asked before. RB vs. 2JZ is as opinionated as Chevy vs. Ford. If you can get them for the same price, both with RWD Transmissions, flip a coin if you can't make a decision.

Yeah I doubted it at first too. I can see it being a combination of both. Perhaps an crank driven oil pump and a remote filter pickup location. still worth a look.

If you have the calipers you could just go to the supply store you generally use and match it up. Not sure if it's easier for you that way. Also, I hope you're not running a hard line directly to the caliper for obvious reasons. (hate to point it out, but i'm making sure)

Damn kiwi's always gotta brag. LOL Even so, there are plenty of people here who have the steering issue solved. Don't take it to heart if you want an RB and are concerned about the steering column. It's been solved one way or another.

No, the prices are legit. There are a number of people within Ontario who've bought from them with no problems. You must watch out for Osaka JDM Motors. Those are the people with the junkyard engines. Someone on this board with a very powerful and really S30 had purchased had two bad engines from them, one being the DOA warranty fulfillment, and he got screwed. That's just one of the Osaka horror stories. Tiger Japanese is somewhat respectable. They have great shipping and have pretty clean engines.

we got a toyota previa here that we use to haul all our metal and engines/work supplies. going on 410,000 km this week. everything on the engine is original, except for the alternator and battery. we sold another 400,000 km previa with rod knock for 1200 and got this one for 700 and it's quiet and runs like a charm. The engine on the previa is on a slant, and my roommate (mechanic) tells me it's got a dry sump system, but I haven't looked underneath. Junkyards are usually littered with them. best van I've ever had the joy of using. Shares a lot of land cruiser specific parts (ball joints, random links here and there), wouldn't be surprised if the dry sump system is overbuilt too. what surprised me about the previa is that the engine is directly underneath the passenger and driver's seat, and it gets all the salt and dirt and road grime from all those 400,000 km, and it hasn't skipped a beat. It doesn't even burn oil. I'm willing to bet the bearings on the engine are still usable. LOL. Toyota stopped making the previa because it was a proprietary platform and they had to downsize their model line-up when they axed it. So being that it had a wealth of previa-specific parts, and it was too costly, I wouldn't be surprised if the sump system is fairly heavy duty. Probably not racing standard, but who knows. The Previa's 2TZFE and 2TZFZE engines are positioned on an 85 degree angle. so that's virtually sideways. so much for a "flat four" cheggit'out

is that a RB25DE or DET ? because it doesn't make any mention of turbo chargers, as well as the uncut harness. a clip will get you all the under hood stuff, even vac booster, inter cooler, and down pipes. Problem is they probably will need changing, so unless you could sell the un needed stuff to someone, you might be better off getting an engine. Sometimes they toss in the driveshaft and the guage cluster with the front clip. and you could probably score with some R32 or R33 headlights and brackets that can fetch a good dollar. Tiger Japanese is quite good too. They never get back to you if you're waiting for a price or if they've told you to "call back this time next week" because they probably sell enough engines to not give a crap, but they are pretty good in terms of engine quality and warranty. their shipping within Quebec/Ontario is pretty good, too. however, I think you could find someone closer to Oregon, to be quite honest. If you have the extra money (1 or 2 grand) to play around with misc parts that might need refreshing or replacing with whole different parts (radiator, inter cooler), you should just get the engine itself as you've listed. Just make sure it comes with the Uncut harness and turbos/exhaust parts if you want to start it up within their allotted time for warranty (usually 30 days)

Yeah, bottom line is that neither is better, and either will make you happy, I think.

its not that big of an issue. In any case, either engine has it's shortcomings when being fit into a car that is 30 years old. If you can find a 2JZ for a good price with everything included, it's a heck of a motor. If you find that for a good 2JZ, the price is too much, then get the RB25 or the 1JZ. They cost about the same and some would say the 1JZ is an all around better motor than the RB25, especially for the 400whp level. So really it's a matter of what engine you would like to build, or have experience with. Or what you can find for a good price. And in the case of the RB engine, all you REALLY need to do is make a good oil sump system or have someone make one for you (or cut one off a performance v8 pan and have someone custom weld it onto the front of an RB pan if you can work with the design). You also have to add the crank collar if you wanna keep the oil pump drive intact for a long period of time. The head drain mod is not that important to some top RB builders in japan, and neither is the oil restrict or mod, believe it or not. But that's not a big issue for me either. I would change the headgasket and the head bolts to head studs upon getting the engine to fire up. And at that point, I would just get a copper mig welding gun tip and cut it in half and put it in the restrictor hole. It's just oversized, so you might have to sand it for a couple of minutes, and you will have to pick the proper hole sizing for your application. But I'm going to go with something in between 1.25 and 1.5 mm. I think one of my gun tips is in that range, so ... problem solved =)

work equips are way better looking and are only 4 spoke, not multi-star

yeah, and they're pretty well priced too! I think it's like 500 bucks for the combo, which is probably the same price from Nissan, so if you know someone that needs some, sell them for 200 and buy the carbon kevlar ones

Well, sorry anyways =) don't wanna make anyone leave. me likes this place.

That was the first clue Didn't wanna mention the obvious

the entire black wheel is photoshopped. look at the shine just below the 3'o'clock point on the black star. and then look at it on the gold one. they should have the same light intensity, but someone got carried away with levels and hue/saturation in photoshop and just made it darker without readjusting the lighting curve. EDIT: forgot to mention the slightly gold reflection in the black wheel's polished lip, too.

So the shifter would end up protruding into the passenger seat area?

If you're going to buy them for 40 dollars a piece, then get the Accel corvette coils. They're supposed to be a little better than the standard: Buy from here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Accel-HEI-Remote-Mount-Super-Coil-96-04-GM-Chevy-Truck_W0QQitemZ280161626554QQihZ018QQcategoryZ33689QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem However, a good point someone brought up (or can't remember if I just thought of it at this point) but I'm guessing the dwell setting on the coil is mis-matched from the factory dwell setting, so it might not be a good idea to upgrade to these Accel coils just incase one goes flat on a long trip. For the price, you could always keep one spare handy in the trunk somewhere. They're not that big.