Careless

Yeah I got the balancer. I'm trying to find time to go to my parent's house to take pictures of it in my white-box, so that I can post it here. Looks pretty nice. Not really anodized red, as described on the website ... more of a burgundy/purple type colour(check the new products PDF, it has a picture of a holden 6 balancer, but it's for the new holden engines... but it does make mention of the RB30, I think) It has provisions for additional (power steering) pulley to be put onto the front using the stock pulley holes, and it looks very nice. I'll see what I can do! Engine won't be put together for a while, still waiting on the head.

Yeah I read good and bad from the splitfire. mostly bad though. but with remote mounted coils, at a cheaper price, and used on a car that makes way more factory horsepower and produces a way hotter spark, I think ill take the cheaper/stronger route. I will include the splitfires as an option in the japanese aftermarket section of the reference guide. surface gap same as side-gapped? Yeah that's always the case with grounds. Same poo happens with car stereos that run amplifiers. So many times I have to fix broken grounds on friends cars that have installs done by some schmoes who don't use a bolt that can be fastened properly, and in an area that won't corrode rapidly. so the boil over will just fall into a can? I see that RIPS and Stony have both used resevoirs, but there seems to be no breather box that allows the air to vent off. possibly because they're drag cars or something? I know full well about the underfueling. Had a friend with a hyundai accent turbo who suffered a lean condition, and had nuclear meltdown. surprisingly, the aluminum head was fine, it was the block that went all warpy =/ yah. excess lean = excess heat = excess rubbery aluminum. leads to fast head warpage. These are things I will probably put in the misc section or just make small note of though. Don't want to over-fill this guide. sometimes it's too much to explain every single detail down to the size of the bubbles in the coolant. thanks for your input again, kismet

my car was built in november of 75, but badged as a 76 and it has an N42/N42 combo. Is that the one you speak of? I might shoehorn it into a Nissan Hardbody Pickup =)

How about switching to the SR20 or KA24 (or CA18 and RB20) boxes to see if it's actually your box and not the design. You can pick them up for a case of beer most of the time. The bellhousing supposedly swaps right on, and they are a little different by design internally and externally. (C instead of Dan0myte has posted a writeup of the differences here: http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9505

How did you find out about the honda motor mod? links?!

alls i's gotta say is with the rate things are going with my car, it would take me a hells of a lot longer to do that than 2 months. probably an ongoing 6 month project for me. LOL thanks for sharing, looks great, very original piece mang. I got a 3rd gen camaro buddy imma show this to. hehe

hmm, is it power surge that over pumps the fuel pump for some reason, or is it the FPR having momentary failure? either way, excess fuel is better than lack thereof in situations similar to this. =) I'll make note of that under the fuel system issues portion. Ive seen so many half assed things to get misfires working.. from those blue SuperDi Ignition kits which supposedly suck balls with super weak spark, to people coating their coils with finger nail hardener (diamond coat only!). It's rediculous, but some report good results. LS1/Suburban coils are on top of the list though =)

if you're good with wiring, you can get a 4 button remote and sensor, and do all of those things. I'm going to use nissan stanza power windows and door locks, they have a very small profile, and a nice motor to go with.

There's a slight scratchy noise launchin off the line, but it's probably the most minimal amount of tire screech possible, if anything. doesn't sound like it's causing the engine any harm, but then again it's only a video camera. I wouldn't expect it to pick up anything of real concern unless it was super-loud. i don't think it's anything to worry about. To me, it sounds like someone just scratching a screen door or something.

Well Kismet, you'll be happy to know that: 1) I had some Kismet pizza yesterday and, more importantly 2) I sent a copy of the PDF to someone on the board for some slight review on the topics. It's not filled with info yet, but just about every topic that I can think of was added or has been appended since. Now the trick is to get some pictures. I have to wait until I get my engine head for most of that. But I'm filling in the data here and there starting this weekend. Gotta install F.A.S.T. on my pop's computer, as I do the work at his place. Raff

thank you for rockin' my s0x with PDF d0x. =) who sells them Valbes? (don't correct me spelling, I saw it in a GTR magazine!)

After thinking about this, I might go ahead and get some headwork done for the price. This is something I can always add later. But I'd still like some input on it's use.

question.... a lot of these systems are on hondas and pulsars and all those other cars that have had somewhat of a good aftermarket following... but didn't they make aftermarket intakes that "removed" those alternate intake runners?

Hey guys, I'm starting a line of Raffaele Caré washer fluid line tees. This is the one that's got holes! yes. HOLES! so Ron, where da party atttttt?

I'm seeing a lot of chevy Titanium valve kits that almost match up to the RB26 valve sizes. I'm curious to know if it's at all possible to have the stem O/A length cut down, and the keeper groove re-cut into the top of the valve with a keen machinist. perhaps the seat would have to be re-cut to match the valve head characteristic, but is this a common thing? Cause I see a lot of valves that are EERILY similar to RB26 valves, and I'm itching to buy em.

well it would also prolong clutch life because it would distribute bearing force over the entire circumference of the bearing + pressure levers, rather than start at one point and engage fully (while it still happens fairly quickly anyway) but that quarter of a second at, say.... 7000 RPM means that it would be riding on an unseated bearing 29 times by the time that quarter second is over. just a simple calculation, obviously, but my main concern is the drive ability and the wear characteristics of not only the clutch disc itself but the flywheel and the hydraulic bearing too. How long do they last before the piston needs a re bore and oversize? External bleed setup seems ideal too. Also, as the clutch wears down, it still makes a full grab because the bearings are self adjusting, meaning they always clamp completely, rather then to the point where the fork remains at full lock. LS1 T56's carry this setup, i believe.

I had this game, and I will say two things. The game rocks. but Keyboard steering sucks.

word has it around hybridz that it's not your first time!

have you guys seen the VQ37HR Bottom ends? Wouldn't surprise me if the VQ38's are even more beefier. I think this V6 will be quite a contender. Better than the venerable RB even.

exactly what kind of evil habits will get posted in that forum? I can think of a million ways to burn out.

pfffffft. you would'a filled a pair of galoshes already!!!! 'grats, mang

well if you need other parts, i can get the full part number if you're having trouble. that's as much as i can contribute to this thread. LOL

so it's like a one motor that just turns the far intake runners into the closer intake runners along the same axis? That'd work! but i think just having an IN/OUT would be easier for custom setups

wikie, i think you're doing an amazing job

Anyone know where we can get one for RB20 tranmissions or…? seems as though maxworkx is out of stock =( are they really beneficial? Im thinking of going that route with the external bleed line kit. pro's? cons?