Careless

looks like it's gonna eat my babies and they ain't even born yet.

if your head temp sensor is at 212 degrees when the engine is at running temperature of 180F (thermostat opens), that means it's most likely not working correctly, as most of the nissan head temp sensors are made to have a fully closed circuit at the boiling point of water (212 degrees F)... you may want to look into testing another head temp sensor.

i like what i see. love when something gets so close to being done... cause the "its done" thread is another sweet surprise

kool fender flares, strokerzedd, i likes 'em

damn man, now i'm ordering pizza after reading this post.

yeah thats what i was thinking too, but no harm in replacing it if done right, and having a spare pump is not a bad thing incase one starts to show fatigue... he can put the old one back in rather than say "ahh i'll drive it until the one i ordered comes in the mail" or something.

misterZ, if you wanna change the pump, go right ahead... good insurance! ... but I'd like to mention that the oil cannot just disappear into thin air that fast. I mean... WHERE is the oil being burnt... it might be leaking passed something (i don't want to scare you though, so I'll keep shut) and being burned ever so slightly so that you barely even notice... the catalytic converter will cover up a slight oil burn but not two quarts between oil changes without a smell. it must be burning a touch passed the 5th and 6th cylinders, try running a slightly thicker oil? one weight increase? a compression test won't reveal a stuck oil control ring. but running a thicker oil for one oil interval will let you know if it's seeping passed a slight gap.

Thanks Jon, rock = you!

there are some small things i wouldn't have done, but opinions are subjective! overall i think you got a very nice looking z, and the trophies you've won show that =)

I've seen cheaper aftermarket driveshafts with thick nylon straps with the metal clip as mentioned by NCchris in regards to his (shhhh! *honda*). But a good metal strap installed properly for 10 bucks is about as good a price as you'll get anywhere.

so, in other words, I could put the dial indicator on the valve face to test for total travel, and then i guess cross reference with lift measurements from older HKS cams and find the closest one?

Great to hear it worked well and most importantly you went to visit some Z friends. that's what it's all aboooot!

thanks Jon, I have a dial indicator that is fairly accurate and sturdy, and some spare wood that I can use to cut some blocks into and lightly sand smooth + add some drops of oil to facilitate rotating and allow the cam surfaces to remain unscathed. however, RB26's do not use rockers, they use a cam on bucket-shim style valve train... I would not be multiplying anything here, correct?

I'm liking what I see here. definitely a choice piece to find for anyone with a datsun that has a body panel long enough to become that stamping's new home subscribing to this post.

Hi, I got a set of stock cams, not sure what motor, but I think R32. I also have a set of HKS cams that are no longer made. They must be real old (because they have the original HKS cam gears that are no longer made anymore... not the new girlie purple necklace charm ones they make now)... I was wondering if I can get them tested somewhere to verify their duration and lift. I think they are 262/9.5 or something like that. They are also for sale just cause I don't need them, so they will go super cheap (cam gears not included, I like the old ones and I'm keepin'em!). They are in excellent condition. I will be cleaning the lobes with super-fine 0000 steel wool later today and coating them lightly with machine oil. Right now i'm looking for key words to google search for to find a local place to classify the cams. Thanks! Raff

oh so that's where all those parts that i found in my RB26 box go! Thanks man

good stuff jeeefs

me missed it too! happy bday!

ahahahahaha braap you have the best photo-impersonation skills on the entire intrahwebz

Heppy borfdey.

HAHAHHAHAHAHA. this has to have something to do with them danged imports takin all our sales here in the U S of A! Must be a chapter 11 special. LOL I loved that. it was fun. (no disrespect to the USA or folding companies, just a thought!)

I would still love to find a "text" book training-like manual for starting a tuning process... things to calculate, maybe some information trees to branch off of if you have this or don't have that, etc... that would be great to read to also diagnose improper running conditions if you work backward.

there is a stroker motor build on youtube where the builder of the engine states that putting in a lower thermostat helped his vehicle run a little better or it just plain liked the cooler temp. I would say the operating temperature that the engine should run at is in relation to the engine itself, as there are some 220F thermostats for some cars, and I couldn't imagine when the fans come on for those cars... 245F? WOW. if your thermostat is 175, 192 is ideal. (10% above thermo open temp).

trying to grind down a shifter rod so that it's 8mm wide and then trying to tap it after it is most likely not ground down in a perfect cylindrical shape unless done on a lathe is way harder to do than to drill a hole (which always comes out circular if you can eye-line a drill bit) and stud and then thread onto. I vote for the BRAAP-Shifter Deluxe. Plus, if you use a left over 12.9 hardness stud or an ARP exhaust manifold stud, you will have quite some trouble trying to break that sucker.

I would say Jeff Hartman's book is lacking in a lot of areas. I don't find the information organized as well as I thought it should, but the book does have it's strong points. I find that the "tuning" stories in the later areas of the book are all fine and dandy, but I seriously would not know where to start in terms of tuning if I just read that book. I KNOW there is never a step-by-step for even tuning 2 or 200 of the same engines,cars, etc... but It IS lacking in that respect. There is no "scheduled" approach for tuning based on adjusting timing, adjusting fuel, target afr's (yes I know there is a rich/lean target chart somewhere in the book) and when to do what as a general starting point... something a TUNING book should have, if you ask me. It's a good starting point, but if you know what a distributor, knock sensor, oxygen sensor, coolant temperature sensor, and air flow/pressure meter does, and how it correlates with the sum of all the sensors readings, then I doubt you'll learn much. That's just what I came away with from the book. Still wondering when I get my EMS installed... where do I go, short of running a base map?