Careless

but why stop at the factory rods with aftermarket bolts? why not upgrade them too, just to be safe, and have the crank checked for clearances on the new rods, and put some new bearings and rings. that way it's FULLY built, and not just the pistons.

if it's for an RB20 you'll have a tough time making your own as you would need to find a junkyard car with the ECU and harness and purchase the ecu and cut the harness and take both home with you, then desolder the connector from the ECU.

vienna kreiss on the back? i always wondered how they'd look on a widebody z. any side shots on the s13?

What brand were these, Yasin? it could be that the manufacturer had a bad batch and that looks like a copper coating that was badly worn to the surface. how long did it sit before you drove it? it looks as though one of the needles was seized. perhaps one of the needles was out of spec and squeeked by QA department?

question: where are the pics? comment: welcome back

great shots. put some of them through "shadows and highlights" in photoshop to get some really nice detail to come out of the hidden areas, and to mask some of the brighter areas... you'll be surprised at what you find in those spots!

I'm going to say that Amp draw is Amp draw whether it's on one line or on many lines. if the wire and the fuses are made to suit, the amperage drop will still be the same. technically speaking, the thicker wire will consume more heat energy in conductivity of the cross sectional width of the conductor core itself (don't measure the insulation thickness, it goes by core thickness). But that doesn't change the fact that you have plenty more gauges than issued from factory, which came with a shitty alternator to start. It will most likely benefit greatly from an alternator swap to a larger 70 - 110 amp unit.

you can open the unit. there are two flat white plugs that pop into the main circuit board. there are also some twist-off bulbs. replace them with high brightness LED's. I got some green ones to make it super bright green. Also, the little potentiometer at the top of the display with the - to + indication changes the contrast of the display. turn that towards the plus to make the liquid crystal display darker. too dark, and you'll see the images of the modes that are off even when they are not on. I have taken apart about 3 of these units, and you can replace the bulbs easily. you can even change the colors to whatever you want.

They might get involved if he doesn't return my item which I've sent back yesterday afternoon.

He has agreed to a refund with shipping reimbursed for this shipment back to him. Still deciding whether I should put the site up. Raff

server memory overload. there is only an allocated 96MB max for php functions on server, which is used to execute PHP commands and parse the code so that it can perform the required functions and generate the collected output. Sometimes too many things like resizing images that are uploaded all at the same time (say 2 or 3 threads with high quality photos) will do that to a server, as resizing one image at 1600x1200 pixels can take upto 26megs in most cases. Nothing to worry about at this point. It's a once in a blue moon thing.

... Nothing more than OEM pumps. Don't buy them. I just purchased one and opened it (purposely voiding the warranty) and have been in contact with the seller, who will not guarantee a refund, despite the fact that the product is a blatant fraud. So what's a search engine optimization wizard and web developer to do in this case? the only thing TO DO is buy http://www.togaperformance.com, of course. Now the sham can be unfolded for all to see for a mere 9.99 a year lets see them recoup the cost from lost sales on this one. All it takes is one unhappy customer with the know-how to put a myth at rest. I guess it's my turn to put my skills to use. Think of it as a nasty forum member or ebay seller that just won't front the bill of a fraudulent or mis-labelled part that you've paid for that ends up costing you more than it should. The money could be used elsewhere. Like... say... Machining? I'll be putting the website up within the next couple of weeks, with full pictures and product dimensions. If Toga won't reimburse me for a fraudulent product, I'll make sure any searches for their product will be put to shame. I'm pretty sure the next company that attempts to do something like this and follow in toga's foot steps will have dimensions and pictures of their oil-pump drive gears, or at least more technical data. I did this to help people out, so if it seems like I'm taking it too far... well I've been burned on every single part I bought for my VG33 build so far, so it's much needed to put my head at rest. Pistons being listed with rings, not coming with rings. Main studs being listed for VG30, not working on VG30's. Oil Pump being listed as HV, not being much more than an OEM i could have bought for 1/3 the price. call me crazy. I call it revenge.

one of the best threads on here yet

Hey stony, glad everything being propelled by the car is still in one piece and reworkable. heck you could have done a couple more runs after that and could'a redeemed yourself! despite losing it on the landing, i think you got out with nary a scratch.

a toyota celica slave also works. it was posted before. it's 16 dollars at napa.

so what's everyone's thought on final finish? are the cross buffs really the cats meow in port finishes for a home job? I went with the 320 grit, but I could rough it back with the 220. A local Z'er from z31p is going to send me some spare valves tomorrow that are ground down already, so i can protect the seats so i can get a super-finish on the polish again in the combustion chamber, which I will be re-doing. Thanks all for comments+feedback. highly appreciated.

Thought I'd post this here too to get some feedback. Took some experience from porting my first set of heads and went to town on the 2nd set for my upcoming VG33 build. I've just hit the intake side here and did some combustion chamber polishing, but I'll be redoing the combustion chambers when some spare ground-down valves come in the mail from a fellow local Z'er. I did such a good job on the intake porting, I figured I would post them here (at least I think so anyway). I know they are not to be polished, but I am posting them so that some of you may comment on the final finish of the intake port. I notice that it looks very smooth, but I assure you, I last hit it with a 120 or 180 cross-buff. I did not end up using the 320 cross-buff, so I'm unsure as to whether this is too smooth or not. Should I hit the ports with the 320 grit? Or should I leave them at 180? You can see most of the pics here. They're almost all of the same port, all high resolution 12 megapixel images so they take a while to download. All of the ports are near identical, so I really only shot pics of one or two, and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference anyway http://rb30de.com/engines/vg33e/?d=head_modification I've stalled in order to clean my other cylinder head so that I can get that ready for porting too. I've ordered some more flapper wheels from a fellow online via eBay. He's very nice and his prices are the BEST on the planet. (link below). I am waiting on this stuff, so I have a number of weeks to redo the combustion chambers when my spare valves are delivered, and I can then have the chambers polished to a super mirror finish. http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/Halfofftoolsplus__W0QQ_armrsZ1 Preview pics are attached.

for the price of the RB20, I would look into getting another motor. Then you have a spare motor to build up with better parts and practice head porting on, and you have a spare block to fit with some forged goodies. I would not rebuild the bottom end of that RB20 because you might need a line-hone, a good grinding on the crank, and your cams are probably starved of any lube + cylinder walls a little scorched. If it starts up and runs like a bag of ass, get a new RB20, with no transmission. It will be a heck of a lot cheaper, and you end up getting the entire engine, with the turbo and everything, so you have spares.

also, if i did buy the turbo, the first thing I would do is take it to a turbo rebuilder and get his input on what needs changing, and probably put a different set of wheels and have the shaft inspected for pitting or manufacturing defects. It would cost about 300 bucks or a little more but then you have a turbo that is worth using, in my opinion.

you can rebuild any turbo. i had my z31 turbo rebuilt. the point is that you'll be rebuilding it more often than you should... about 10 times more often. I wouldn't chance that if I really cared about the engine or the car, or if the engine was a known beefy powerplant, like tony's RB30, that you could find in the junkyard, swap in a weekend, and be only 400 dollars or so out in engines, beer, and trips to the parts store.

excellent shots, Paul.

Are you guys nutts? "LAST ABOUT 20,000 MILES BEFORE NEEDING A REBUILD" you guys will be changing your turbo-charger every 4 - 6 oil changes. you guys will be changing your turbo-charger 3 times for every 1 spark plug change. there are cars that have turbos that could use a clean-up, but don't even need a rebuild @ 150,000 miles. 20,000 is a joke. Probably doesn't even have bearings, nevermind journal or ball. And where would you get them at that point anyway? You can't rebuild it yourself, you'd have to bring it to a tractor/truck shop that deals with all kinds of makes and models and has mismatch parts in a bin somewhere.

S13 guys with 600+ hp have had good results with these: http://www.ichibausa.com/ not sure if they're what you're looking for but I'm sure they can make them in any bolt configuration if you ask (they probably have it on a DWF file already)...

I think the bolts used are the weak link on these adapters. you could see if ARP or anyone has something that you can use to replace them. but for an 800 horsepower car? save yourself the pennies and time of doing the legwork and go with a proven product.

Concrete Etcher works very well if you rub it in. Wear a mask, it's 20+ % phosphoric acid.