Careless

start out by marking the starting position

Finish the garage first. And to answer your question: If the numbers on that screenshot don't say much to you, pick another automobile to get along with!

that is a very cool mod! I like looking at the inside-mount and the bottom-mount. top-side would look to anime, and outside looks too cutesie for me. i guess it makes it look like a cute lady. lol

This information is available on the last pages of a GTR FSM. if you look for Service Data and Specifications pages, there are about 9 or so. Print those out and hand them to your machinist. The part of the FSM you will find it in would be the EM (engine mechanical) section.

This would be awesome to recreate the IMSA car double-plenum with the blow-off valve on a plenum union pipe at the back. My question would be where the plumbing for those lines would go. to a reservoir?

I dunno how many birds you can smush into the confines of a cylinder wall and an exterior wall of an engine block, and I'm not sure how many pieces or how fine of a texture that blend might have to be... but that sure sounds like a cool bird house! "yeeeeeeeeeeep... i used to live in a 454... the pool left in the pistons during BDC season was HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE"

Thank hammeredscout I was just agreeing with him because I know my RB26 rail has that tiny little reg. on there.

A better question would be how fast would the fastest street legal z31 be if the engine was a 3.5 litre VG33 block

there should be a tiny little regulator that is actually ON the stock fuel rail. it would be weird if it was missing.

you guys should start moving up to the larger blocks to make some bigger horsepower if you got the skills and resources to pull off power of that magnitude with a 3.0 litre. Have you considered the VG33 blocks with VG30DETT crank machined for Z31 VG30 accessory drive?

have you considered having the intercooler pipe OD sleeved with a larger size aluminum pipe or rolled sheet to make up the difference. it could end up costing less than the couplers, and would be relatively easy to have someone tack on for you.

superman: "i uhhhh... couldn't help but notice you didn't wash your hands"

looks between 4.75 to 6.25 inches judging by fitting size. hope it works. post pics

check out the fuller-tool-shop on ebay, it's a store that has a LOT of cool items.

I believe the replacement parts have been superceeded to use metal guides with a coating on them if you buy them for any year KA. you could look on rockauto.com to see which aftermarket manufacturer makes them and what they look like. if they look metal, when you get them and they're not metal... don't pay fer em! EDIT: looks like beck-arnley's are a full metal slack side with a plastic face, as well as the tension side. The two of em will be like 40 - 50 bucks CAD. Infact, the pic that was posted look like beck-arnley units. AND... if you notice your pics, jerry... the rounded broken piece is probably where the bolt went in for the slack side... it's plastic. booooo! hisssss! hissss! If possible, you could go ahead and put a 280zx oil pump on the ka24e, as it's a higher volume and it bolts right up to the single cam. Not sure what it involves- installation wise... but my friend does have it on his built ka24e. I figure it's one of those while you're there things.

The verdict is Sealed Power H1113CT Pistons in a 0.75mm oversize. These are Hypereutectic. ITM, CLEVITE, and standard FED MOGUL are NOT. I've called and emailed and had a distributor even check for me... they say they are not Hypereutectic. Sealed Power is a different casting than the FED MOGUL ones, which is the parent company. they are labelled as hypereutectic, and cost a bit more (if yo don't know where to look) They come with chrome plated top rings, cast iron second rings, and standard oil rings. No fancy shmancy here, but they are better than OEM or other non-forged Aftermarket. Chris86NA2T on Z31Performance made a heck of a lot of power, more so than I will be for another year or so. These are the ones for me. I found them in a lot of price ranges. 1) Rock auto. 54 dollars a slug. After conversion and shipping = 420 CAD for the set. 2) Local parts place. Without applicable taxes = 530 CAD for the set. 3) Machinist Jobber price. Without applicable taxes. 61 dollars a slug = 370 CAD for the set. 4) Autopartsgiant.com. 44 dollars a slug. After conversion and shipping + discount code = 290 CAD.

35,000 dollars? no. sorry... that cannot be correct. if you're telling me you spent that much on an RB30 to make 550hp, then I feel dearly sorry for you as you got shafted, and someone ran off with your money to build 3 more of those engines to sell to other people for 35,000 dollars. In total, I have about 4 to 6000 in parts for my RB30, and the head parts will cost roughly another 2 to 3000. That's 10 g's with all the shipping and taxes, and etc. Those head parts will also be 2/3rd in price more than what a Single Cam motor would cost, seeing as I am buying double of everything for a RB26 head that comes with Skyline GTR tax, and it's DOHC. I can see the turbo kit adding another 4000 to the total, and machining for such operations another 1 to 2000 if you go to the best of the best. That's still about half of what you claim it is. 35,000 should be close to enough to complete most of this project from start to finish, not including the roll-cage, as that's something I've never had priced out.

what do you think the reason for the thagard pan's starvation issue was, based on how you set up the pickup and all that jazz, what do you think you did incorrectly. this would be good to learn from for ppl deciding to have a go at it.

compared to similar models, that is a steal of a deal for a swinging pickup: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL-21330&N=700+-110368+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL-19325&N=700+-110368+115&autoview=sku

the ones with the legs probably have a 1/4" of room when rested... it looks that way but pictures can be deceiving... I'm comparing it to the size of the thread and what the description says the line size is. I presume you're talking about this one here, which doesn't have legs: A great price! The screw in fittings make it easy to put it on with a bit of sealant around the face and a pair of AN fittings screwed into some holes on the pan. Making sure it has full swing is all you need to do. Pan modification may be in order once again. GO FOR IT !

i wasn't trying to knock you. i've drawn tattoos for people before, I know what it's like to get an explanation as to why it's there. i understand the 200sx you got into an accident in probably had some supports in the uni-body that save your life in that circumstance, and how being physically disabled for a number of years changes things. no harm meant...

Some have a lot of different ideas of what's a safe wall thickness. What's safe is getting the block sonic-tested for uniformity across the entire bore. At any rate, a thin wall with highly-varying wall thicknesses across the entire length of the bore is what kills the walls quickly if you drive the heck out of it to the point where it's being heat-cycled constantly within short amounts of time. different areas of metal thickness will expand more or disperse heat more. it could disperse the heat and move it over to a thinner area which you don't want to happen. 1/8ths inch or 3mm is the common saying, but there are some folks running a little thinner. would i do it for the extra .1 litres? nah. I was toying with the idea of using a 305 piston and RB30 rods in the VG33 to make it a 3.55 litre or so, but looking at the power that someone made with the hypereutectic pistons from Sealed Power with a slight overbore, it made sense to me that for a daily/lightly-modded street/track car, having a trusted setup like one that someone else has been running for years makes more sense than trying to reinvent the wheel. I doubt the difference from 3.35 to 3.55 would warrant all the work, considering I still need nistune, a huge turbo, injectors, and an FMIC. I'll save the RB30 parts for the RB30 and let the VG33 block keep it's .15 litres of displacement worth of metal.

Anyone find it funny how his Screen Name is "DIRTYLT1" hahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahhahahahahahahhahahahah ahhhhh.... hahah. hah. hahahahahahahahahahahahaha.

hahah nice one josh

I thought this was the funniest line so far: Crazy4Carz "If the power steering fluid "steers the brake fluid out" and the trans fluid "automatically seats the rings" then why didn't the brake fluid "stop the problem"?"