Careless

are you talking about the clutch pedal return spring?

The last rebuilder I asked to do the 30A for me said they would pull it apart for free, inspect it, and clean it for almost nothing, and replace and repair any "soft seals" for 500 bucks. I said "what about synchros, bearings, pins/springs/balls, and forks?" and he said "We'll inspect that but it will be a lot more... possibly more than double". Not sure if he knew much about this particular trans but the do it yourself kit seemed like a steal at that point... All in canadian prices @ AAMCO transmissions. I didn't go through with it. It bites 2nd gear. I've learned to live with it and shift carefully.

not a bad hit at all. the hit i would have tossed that kid would have been a lot worse and more "pushed in". just kidding. i wouldn't really... but it looks like something I will inevitably pay no attention to if it's fixed right. is it the rear valence that took most of the denting?

Set it to the stock timing in the FSM for the turbo application. That's what most N/A to T guys for VG30's do and they get no detonation as far as I know. I've read about 1 or 2 degrees less, and just use better gasoline. How did the swap go?

For now I think I can swing keeping her. (RB30) But in a few months we'll see what must be done. Now that I know there's interest I'll keep the sale in consideration when I figure out what's going on. As for what made me want to continue an ITB project in the future...

It's funny you mention this. I had the back-end working with the blog architecture all set up. Even had some ready to go VG33 updates (as a teaser) with images and whatnot of my new pistons. Had a design I did at lunch time at work, that I thought was SUPER intuitive and had a huge parts tree breakdown list that was awesome (but not coded yet). Then my web-host did a roll-back on the server for some weird F'ing reason and they said that I needed to pay $100 for data recovery and it wasn't guaranteed. A roll-back on a server deletes any later updates that came after the date they rolled back to, and data recovery always gets you data from BEFORE the date you're trying to be on. So I said "F" it. I have had a rough month and a death in the family and some other stupid ♥♥♥♥ going on lately. Makes me want to sell the Z31, but I can't even if I wanted to. LOL I might as well just get the z31 running and deal with the stuff later. It really only took me like 3 hours to get the database working and everything set up. I've been compiling data on various computers for about a year now, slowly copying and pasting texts and quotes from people who know the know.... I do it when I'm at my father's house mostly though. Maybe it all happened for a reason ?

that's not a very good sign. is your e-fan working? boiling is the worst thing to happen to an engine, IMHO... the results of doing such things can pop up sometime down the line and it could be the root of a lot of problems if it boiled over for a long time... if you hear your car boiling, the best thing to do is to take it on the highway, slowly use the on-ramp to get upto speed, and cruise dead on the speed limit in a low rpm and let the air rush passed the radiator.. that's what a friend of mine did when his fan crapped out and it saved his engine from overheating. I wasn't so lucky.

no one would look for this in the sale section, so I posted it in the RB section where I know it will get offers. if you would like to move it, feel free. Apologies. Raff

That's actually why I wanted to do an RB28DE with the stock RB26 ITB's and whatnot... bu then I realized that to get to 2.8 litres, I'd need a stroker kit, or I could get an RB30. seeing as the 280 is originally an N/A 2.8, I decided I wanted to keep it that way, but then the RB30 just made more sense considering the horsepower that would be easier to attain than a 2.6 litre or an expensive 2.8 litre. Now I'm forced to fix my VG, so I'm putting a bit of money in there for now. but the idea was the same... wanted to make it an atmo-2.8.

LOL everything is paid for , and it's not on credit for the RB30, so it's classified as "paid". and whether I keep it or not makes no change, it will just help me finish the z31 faster. I may still keep it, as I'm finding people aren't interested in the RB26 head or whatever because it needs some chamber work, and the last fully assembled head that Racinjitter picked up was about the price of two junkyard L heads. kinda makes doing this seem pointless... I know quentin doesn't want the rest of the stuff... just the rods, and shortblock, and he'll have to get his own pistons made as the CP's in his RB26 might not work. Not sure what to do with the rest of the stuff in that case. Someone could buy an RB26 for the same price and be on their way with a reasonable 500hp... so I'm not even sure if this makes sense to me! A block doesn't take up that much space!

q, send me your number via pm or email. delerious z. still wondering if it's the right thing.

even semi-serious, sometimes.

rods are 650 USD. block you can't find anywhere for like 1000 USD. bearings are 300 USD. so we're at 2000 already. should i keep going?

I agree. sometimes it's not what you learned or experienced, but it's what you had to do to get to the point to where you had the opportunity to do so. the people with good beating hearts, and heads on their shoulders know the difference between the two, and when helping goes a long way. I think that's why I like this thread.

and if the straw is too big... ?

I guess I'm thinking of data applications rather than power transfer. maybe there's a whole other side to this? I'm not an electrician, but I've certainly ran a lot of data transfer wires that have a required length, and a length you should not exceed... hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

definately sounds like fuel presure or volume way to high. especially if all 6 plugs are wet. I would say one plug is stuck open, but it sounds like all of them are getting flooded. have you considered checking the grounds or the trigger wires for the injectors to make sure that they are not stuck open due to shorts?

Hi guys. Z31 is costing me too much money and S30 has to go. I want to save my RB30 for any of my future cars, but I'd like to get some wheels and other goodies for the Z31 sometime soon. I don't want to do it, but I gotta grow up with this stuff. I could do another project when I got my own house and a lot more time to just let things sit in the garage. I'm currently living somewhere else and I do have room for it at my father's place, so if the cost threshold isn't met, I will not be selling. But I am entertaining offers. Quentin, I know you're happy in the pants right now for this thread. I'll be selling a heck of a lot of stuff with my RB30... keep in mind, everything is un-used, new condition (except the block), and it's going as a set. RB30 Series 2 short block Spool Rods ACL Calico Coated CT1 Race Bearings ARP Bulk Parts main stud kit Factory Water pump (not n1) Romac RB30 Balancer ARP Head Studs for RB26 head (block needs drilling) Most of the bolts associated with the bottom end of the block All dowels, pins, plugs associated with the block (near complete refresh kit, basically) 200ZR Oil Pan, Pickup Tube, and O ring There may be other things in the box-o-parts. but to be honest it's not taking up a lot of space at my father's place. Its really one Rubbermaid Tote that hasn't moved since light hit the earth. I am still researching and looking into building the engine, but if a good offer (as a whole) is made, I will consider it. Keep in mind, I'm not looking for lowballers, and would appreciate a local sale much more than one where I have to ship. Reason being that I do not have the time nor the space/money that isn't going into the z31 to build you a pallet and set up a ship date, and I also have no car. I also have other parts like a Japanese made Lightweight flywheel (non SFI, but nice chromoly). If you have a friend from these boards that can see it locally or pick it up for you with cash in hand, we'll talk. JUST A FEELER for now guys. I got a lot of deciding to do once the Z31 gets running (which should be sometime near end of July if all goes well). I also have the following to add to the list, but I'm wondering if it makes sense to sell together or separate: RB26 Head (needs combustion chamber work, some detonation marks... but otherwise ok!) Two stock cams with stock Timing Gears Two HKS cams with original old style HKS Adj. Timing Gears RB26 ITB intake (needs cleaning and some small parts, but it's there. and possibly some other un mentioned stuff....

very nicely done to keep the stock setup. it's often hard to weld cast manifolds so nicely, especially with a stick! should be loads of fun!

shove a straw in the spark plug hole and hold it upright with your finger and align the mark to where it's supposed to be at TDC by manually turning the engine over, and when the straw reaches its high point and the marks are on spot, you're at TDC. simple as that in most cases. just hold the straw because of the weird angle on the spark plug holes for L heads.

sometimes it's all in the approach. if you feel 21 when you put the beer on the counter... you've probably got the look of a 21 year old! LOL.

happy birthday skib! i hope that 6 pack is for yourself.

Well john brings up a good point. The fact that FM makes good parts, and that it seems like it could be overtightened... and I'm assuming that the same person who installed the really worn one installed the other slightly worn one, it can only mean that the installer perhaps tightened them improperly. What are the chances of two FM wheel bearings being bad in the same batch. And I know you said you installed them, so by no means am I saying it was your fault... I'm just looking at it from John's angle here... it makes the most sense if they are quality bearings like FM. No worries yasin, I think you should follow the guidelines posted just above. It seems like the tightening step is only to seat the bearing in properly and then the slight rebound from the tension on the threads and the nut will allow a backed-off castle nut to still hold tight, but locked with the pin.

I not going argue that you corrected me, woldson... good eye! (heck I'm blind in my right one anyways. haha) While true, I wouldn't say that it is being "eaten up". that's assuming that a thinner wire is eating less voltage. But in reality, it is restricting the transfer of energy and that is why it gets hot. It's the same as traffic on a highway. Technically you are only seeing a better percentage of overall useable wattage passing through the larger wire... The wattage is still in fact the same, but some of it is expelled as heat throughout the thinner conductor that is suffering from a voltage/amperage pile-up. and that's why it gets hotter when it's thinner. But it's the congestion in thinner wires and the temperature increase that makes thinner wires better for long range transfers. as the longer it is, the better it can transfer that heat energy along the entire length conductor, and not lose complete voltage in long lengths, as really large conductors do.... and it also allows the thinner wire to keep a strong voltage signal and minimal heat, the longer you go.

I'm pretty sure, as I've had a friend make one or two patch connectors for SR20's. sometimes the pins are really stubborn. and I believe there's a place to get the pins that you can crimp on too, instead of soldering janky wires onto small pins that would be on the motherboard as a solid connection. that's not ideal in my opinion.