Careless

yowza. for that price, you can take the core, cut'r in half, and make two IC's for smaller turbo systems on a miata or something, and make twice your cash back. LOL

I see really no difference in the AEM or the Wolf if that's the reason you like the AEM. cause the Wolf is a stand-alone, through and through.

Im gonna guess thats just the long block with no turbos, or ecu/harness.

portfolio!

yeah, I think that's more than good enough. I mean... how badly rusted can it be in there?

hate'chu

Man, I'm definately going wolf for my RB30/26 build. My father is an electrical engineer and I have a bit of an electrical background being under his wing often times, and It just looks like the best system for the price when compared to units of similar stature. (not saying that it lends me any credability, but from what i've read i totally understand) One thing I like about the WOLF is that it's almost as if they're trying to stay away from the Multi-Tier model line-up and offer the best system for the best price, rather than split features off into different models. thats an advantage and a disadvantage as far as determining the level of tuning required by each individual. But i think having the option to decide to go further and farther is a bit of a nice bonus fail-safe.

Well that's a good way of looking at it. I'm guessing that you've got your fingers crossed that they are about the same size/type as the greddy ones due to how well they've been cast close to the originals. How much is the price difference? I've read good things about TopSpeed and XS Engineering intercoolers.

haha, my side was splitting when I read that in my email. Then i came in this thread and discovered I read it wrong. phew.

so... 3 bus rides, and I'm half way through the corky bell book. by my bus ride home tomorrow, i should be well on my home-stretch, probably looking over the glossary... than it's onto my EFI management systems book. Are there any portions of this book that anyone would deem out-dated in regards to common practices or available parts at the time before I plan my system out? I will indeed be going N/A for the first year or two on this engine. so I doubt I'll even make factory turbo horsepower with my RB30/26 N/A setup, but I'd like to prepare the system for a low-boost application in the future, perhaps running 10:1 with boost between 7 to 10 psi. are there any special features or bundles or devices that i should be paying close attention to when I read this book in regards to N/A?

results results results! now now now!

I know 4 ppl that have bought various engines from Tiger Japanese. Their service is better than Osaka JDM motors for sure (everyone can attest to that, I'm sure) All engines checked out, except for one Mazda engine, which was returned without question and replaced. Shipping fee was waived on the second engine too. They will deliver to your door too! I hope your swap goes well

hey hey hey... take the "swallowing" and the "nutts" to the Girlfriend/Wife thread. j/k. hehehehe... I HAD TO! YOU SET 'EM UP! I'LL KNOCK 'EM DOWWWWN!

Those pauter's do look nice! What's your take on I beam vs. H beam though? what made you plop the cash on the ones you have here. Secondly, after reading the first 3'rd of the Maximum Boost book (in only 2 days, it's quite a good read!), screwing up an intercooler can have adverse effects if not chosen properly. cfm, air flow, and air density, as well as surface area have a lot to do with the design. 900 hp may be achievable, but at the cost of pulling timing to reduce knock due to unstable intake air charge temps and pressure drops. There's some science to all that airy goodness =) I think it will work out well for you though, as the 26 and 2JZ are pretty interchangeable in terms of external aftermarket power adders and such, from what I've seen.

and.... why are you waiting for the filter to dry? just yank the sucker out and get it over with!

there are methods to cleaning a tank that require no boiling at all. you can use conventional cleaners and just wish and wash it in there and really work at it.. if you have a long reach brush you can try and loosen some of the surface rust too. the pump on my car is in the right-rear wheel well, and in order to clean the filter, i had to open it up and take the small white filter sock out. but I think that electric fuel pump is probably too high of a pressure rating or flows too much for your carb setup (assuming you have one). so it's probably not the same part number. if it is, make sure you do it over a table with a cloth, so that you catch any liquids and any small parts that like to roll out of the pump. AND, make sure you do it during a time when the stores will be open for a while, so that you can get new o-ring seals for the pump. they wont be the same shape as the Nissan teardrop o-rings, but i tried finding those from nissan and I couldnt, so i went with some fatter and smaller diameter o rings that stretched and tightened down to fit. you will also want to replace the bolts with standard hex head bolts of the same thread pitch and length (or a tad shorter, but not longer) instead of using the factory head-cap allen bolts. you can torque the pump on a tad tighter (which might be needed in the advent of buying new o-ring seals). My car couldnt start for 25 years (says the owner), so that's what I did (total of 4.00 CDN dollars) and it started right up with new fuel =)

thanks fraz.. some good info there. so i've since decided im not going to get that there RB block, and I'm getting another block that looks to be in better condition for roughly the same price, give or take a hundred. I'm also getting a box of misc parts like the power steering pump and alternator and such. AND.. to top it off, and to get my RB30DE build started, I've also struck a deal for a blown R33 RB26, that was starved of oil. I'm getting an exceptional deal on the two, as well as some good guarantees, AND they have someone who is willing to take the RB26 block off my hands when i'm done picking it bone-dry. Which leads me to my next question.. is it worthwhile to machine and retrofit the RB26 oilsquirters into the VL block?

this would mean that they are changeable in either direction, then. Right?

are you implying that the tears i cry when i think about my z are drying away and leaving residue in my eye

ahhh ok. LoL. forgive me, i just woke up =( so tired. but i can't stop thinkin about my z

well if you're taking the crank out and putting back the stock oil pump, or any oilpump for that matter, you SHOULD put that collar on. It's not necessarily for performance applications

question... why are the mounts pictured in the first post both using a plate steel fabricated part, as well as a bar stock fabricated part. why not both of one, or both of the other? any reason? or are they actually paired vertically rather than horizontally.?

the crank drive on the oil pumps that go on the RB engines that were made around the time of the R32 or prior have less flat mating surface on the crank shaft. The miniscule gap between the lobes on the oil pump and the flats on the crank shaft cause vibration and make the pump fail due to cracking or internally exploding at high rpm or continued thrashing. The way to solve this is to machine the crank down so that you can slip on a crank COLLAR that would replace the flats on the existing crank. It's somewhat of a bushing that has wider flat areas ground onto it, so that it makes more contact with the oil pump and it vibrates less.

anyone know where to purchase one for a good price? nengun doesnt have anymore of the Jun ones, which came down in price by almost half, last time i checked. there was a knockoff ebay one that doesnt exist anymore. coincidentally, more RB's are turning up now, and less crankcollars. maybe i should take out stocks in whatever company produces these RB oil pumps

did u rub lube on it