Careless

Dramier, I thought only the R33 had the VTC.

question... is that made of titanium? if not, what metal exactly? i wanna start making some manifolds just cause, and i wanna know what a good metal to go with would be. but im sure that's outta my league for now.

everytime you ask a stony a question about its car and how it drives, another stony around the world cries a little inside

os I guess that modifying the neck would be the best thing to do then. atleast it might be cheaper than a dry sump at first.

Great info guys. Question about the Wolf, Ron/Paul. Ron had mentioned that you can use in/out puts to control various functions to change various parameters as well. My question is, is it possible to have a secondary controller built specifically to automatically sense an outgoing voltage from the aux out, and decipher the required setting to have the desired effect, and condition the signal so that when it sends it back to the aux input, it is automatically determined by a programmable code in the ECU? lets say i wanted water spray on the IC, as well as Liquid Nitrogen spray on the IC (just bear with me, im trying to think of an easy example, so im using the "dreaming" portion rather than the scientific portion of my brain), depending on what the temperature of the intake air is. so can i set up a secondary control circuit in another little box stashed somewhere... and tell wolf3D that if the temp of the intake is within temp range (A) it will send out a shot of water... and if the temp jumps into range (, the output on the wolf dedicated to this function will change the voltage signal to a higher number, so that the control box i've made can read that higher incoming voltage and adjust its own signal that it sends to the wolf input, and the wolf computer will tell either a second or third output to activate, based on what the control box has fed into the wolf? I KNOW that it's easier to just have the output send it to a control box, or even have the wolf decide the temp and spray charge needed, and then have the control box activate the switch for either spray type, but i'm trying to get a feel for how wild the controls can be... and right now this is what i've thought... sooooo is that something that cna be done with wolf?

as stony said, if you look in the block stamp area, it will say so. but some have been known to grind and re-punch.

ahahaha. NICE =D

put a heat resistant foam between the two so it doesnt rattle when the engine vibrates or something... just for audible sake =) looks pretty gangstur th0! EDIT: and it looks like the compressor outlet is going straight into the wheel well area.. LOL. run an IC pipe through the spokes of your front wheels

what'r these mounts for, again? sweet work! nice welder too =D

now your car actually looks like the rotating one in your sig

woah! old core! new school! they look a lot like ssr starsharks only if they came 16 =(

hehe.. i like wide =) nothing a little improvisation can't fix

i hear ya, I think the person who owned the car was teaching youngsters and let them do the work on it. i'm not sure if he wanted to redo it or not, so maybe he just bondoed over it. I don't care anyways. I got the panels now, and I'm going to cut out the entire rear and redo it. I might have to do something funky with the door jamb, but who knows.

if you separate the paint on a body line with , say... a thin gold pin stripe. and then use that gold on the wheels and some small other doo-dads, the pinstripe is all but dated. it just adds to "togetherness" of the classy feel.

how recent is this book? And after looking at the Haltech E6X, It looks like the Wolf3D is a much more robust unit, by comparing the feature sheets. It's just tuning that would be an issue, but I'm sure any competant dyno tuner willing to learn new things will warm up to it.

the special tool is cheap. you can actually get a nutsert kit (i've been looking, since i asked what they were on this thread, on page 1) the tool is basically like a rivet popper, but it has a bolt that goes through the other end of the handle that you screw into the nutsert while it's on the surface that it will be attached to. you then squeeze the handle, and a small lip holds the edge of the nutsert in place, while the bolt is pulled away from the nutsert. being that the bolt was threaded into the nutsert. when you brace it's movement and pull on it, it will collapse/crush itself, just like a rivet does, but almost as if it were from the outside in, instead of inside out. i think the best way to describe how it works is like taking off your socks. if you're trying to do it while standing on one foot. you grab the rim of your socks, and hold it there, while you raise your leg. the sock will crumple and your foot will come out. that's basically what the tool does, except when it's crumpled the nutsert, you have to unscrew the bolt out the rest of the way.

Ron, That's sort of what I'm trying to compile here. a list of the amount of in's and out's and options each EMS has. you mention all these aux inputs and such, but im sure each of the mentioned ECU's has that. but which one has better features to take advantage of those is what I'm asking. are you basing what you've said on the WOLF unit? because that sounds quite elaborate compared to say... SDS EFi, which i think has 1/4 of the aux in /out that you mentioned

you capitalized every single word in your post.

Tein with EDFC (electronic dampening force controller) It's basically a small stepper motor and a control unit. if you could find someone who had just the EDFC, and someone who has the stepper motor model number or part number, you could probably kit it together a lot cheaper, but I think you would need to find a collar to mount the motor the the adjustment knob on the top of the strut

im actually quite scared by those pics. LOL yowza

Im not a fan of gradient two tones. I think they look too tacky. I would go with a pinstripe line to divide them. I'm doing a dark green on the top half of my car, with a lighter pale green for the main body, and then the skirts and wide-flared ZG/MSA style bolt on flares that I'm making are going to be dark green again, so as to high light them nicely, and give the car a more wide and shapely appeal.

sorry. just to clarify, by "its stock crossmember" i meant using the s13's cross member and mounting it on THAT crossmember's stock location. that wouldnt work? what about s14?

so mounting it underneath or mounting it on it's stock crossmember would work though, right?

Now, whether you're in on this thread, or not... let's start with some general features that MUST be present on the EMS, or atleast available with slight tweaking that doesn't involve extensive engine modification.... annnnnnnnnnnnd go.

yes, the turbo moves from side to side at high speeds. even it it's hicas, you can block it off and use the hicas links as adjustable toe links, can't you?! I think that's a benefit in dialing in suspension.