Careless

im not sure if that could be the EFI relay that's shorting or something. =/ check the connections at both ends of the wire going to the fuel pump for continuity across both wires. if you got a short there, then you know....

boooooo. im gonna go delete my posts then. EDIT: Done. lets all be friends again =) my harddrive is bigger than yours, though.

just got mine in the mail, shipped in a peanut butter jar. I'm gonna get it from my friends house, and i'll take pics of the quality. not that it matters (because the guy only had 3, so chances are this is not gonna be the same as any other one... and apparently this steel is better?). heck i should probably get some made =)

give it a swirl, it'll look better! I like this work, chewievette. really original piece =)

the AEM is a standalone, so how would this differ from your other options?

Same here. If it's not up by the time i start tearing into her, i'll end up doing it myself, but some help would be awesometacular!

has anyone used this software to get an indication of what certain mods will do to a specified engine, or a custom input series of variables to dictate what the target engine would be like? I've plugged in some numbers for an N/A RB32DE with 11:1 compression ratio, stock valve sizes, polished and port matched head with sequential injection (the Individual Runner feature is only for carbs for some reason), and some Apex'i and Tomei Procams (logged both, they're almost the same) I seem to be making about 365 hp at 9000 rpm. Granted I wouldn't spin the engine to that speed, but that's where it stops making power. It dips suddenly after that. The torque curve just dips way low after 5500 rpm. at that speed, it's about 280ish lbs-ft (have to go home to check again). My problem here is: 1) I'm not sure if this is an accurate representation of an RB30 bored 40 over and using VG30DE pistons to make a 11:1 compression ratio. 2) I'm not sure if the cam selection is appropriate, but i've been having trouble finding another cam to better situate where the engine focuses its power. 3) If I rev limit to say... 7500 rpm, and since making power up way passed that, I could redline it... if I were to slam it into second gear at a load close to that point, and my revs dropped 2000-2500 into the next gear, I would situate myself at 5000-5500 rpm. Right where torque is. But... that's where torque ends, unless I get into that 5000 rpm leading into the torque peak. Anyone see this as a potential bog issue the same way I do? I'll be in peak torque for a total of 0.5 seconds. LOL. Any comments regarding the program and what settings I should find tune (will post screenshots later) would be helpful in identifying some good combinations to make the engine manage it's useable power range a bit better are appreciated.

and i'm here, jumping for joy cause my engine is on a truck in singapore. LOL congrats man! =D

If it's for test fitting and alignment, i don't think it would matter much

are you honing or boring the block? if so, how much are you stripping off the cylinder walls? When buying new pistons, if your block looks like it needs attention, you should go with the 87mm in this case, because you may have to shave off more than the recommended piston to bore clearance for the 86.5mm piston. the pistons come with spec sheets and bore/clearance measurements that you should show to anyone who is doing the boring or honing. at the very least, you should hone the sucker.

21 here..

or you could buy some PVC pipe about the same size of the seal and just round off the edges. ive done that before. works ok =)

just curious as to why you think so

getting a larger sunroof would be a really good idea if the metal surrounding the edges of the current sunroof is still in good shape. targa would be cool, but cost exponentially more.

so did u use some cookie discs to make those swirls. it's really well done, that's for sure! bravo. but.. uh... spark plug tray?!

isn't it illegal to smuggle cheese across the border without inspection? My parents are from Calabria, Italy... and bringing cheese over in a luggage is frowned upon, due to contaminates in the cow milk that could be brought over. but damnnnnnnnnnn is it ever good *runs to fridge*

i think the perfect seats for stock replacements are CRX and early civic seats. the CRX seats are recaro, not sure about the early civic seats though (89, with the cordurouy stripes). They sure look the same. and they're really nicely bolstered for a civic, i'd say. heres a link to a large image: http://www.boblackey.com/CRX_interior_seats.JPG

search for my car, and you'll get a better idea of what other ppl are trying to tackle in this community. LOL work on it! GO IN YOUR GARAGE NOW!

lol. thats some weird science. i didnt know early z's were like balloons.

i took apart my fuel pump and found that one of the o-ring gaskets had clogged itself in the pump vane. I'm not sure how that happened, but as soon as i replaced them with off-the-shelf o-rings that were stretched to fit in there, the pump worked amazing, and now my car starts after 25 years of sitting under a tree... after being attacked by bondo and chicken wire (as one other z member noted )

jayzus moiphey!

man... im really tempted to finish off my car with a pair of those badboys.

most likely they're cheapo construction. i wouldn't trust my life with anything less than FIA seats. even though they cost a bit more, what's the cost of a Z driver or passenger? these are the nicest seats they have though