Careless

that's an interesting way of making an gas filler neck cover =)

I'll have to give that book a whirl. see what I can find. =) thanks stoner... i mean.. uhhh.

i wasnt calling him a liar. LOL i was trying to inject some humor into the reply i made =)

i cast my vote for hyundai pony =)

so i asked him to take off a bearing cap and show me the rust forming on any parts inside the bearing cap or on the crank if he can manage to turn it, etc. etc. im really weary ab out this engine, i mean, it's true, im gonna bore it, but blaaaaaaaaah... :/

these pics are all just so beautiful =)

I think the best way to pop a dent out of a tank you can't reach is to use a slide hammer, and just yank that sucker. then just weld up a little plug on there if you can manage. but if a stick'll do it, by all means. let the power tools rest.

hehe, the fear of the flame is always well up in the charts. i wouldn't wanna get badly burned either, but I can tell it's the reason why you don't wanna cut a hole into it. explosions, fires, yada yada. but like any other thing anyone would do on this forum, just take the necessary steps on flushing it as best as you can. the harder and better you flush, the less risk and the easier it gets, because it's even easier than repairing a body panel if you got the right tools. I had to cut a gas tank for a diff relocation once on a malibu, it wasn't that hard at all, i just scrubbed that thing for like 2 days to make sure. LOL.

s13 coupes are my fave s1X chassis. i was gonna buy one before the Z, but i decided Z first, and now my Z has 240sx parts going on it, so hey! LOL

yeah you basically hit the nail on the head with what i was decribing. it's way too complex, but i was trying to get a feel for how customizable the unit could be. back to thinking outside the box, i guess what one could do is use two of the ground operated outputs, and set up a control unit that has two inputs for itself, and depending on which ground is fired, it would be able to determine what voltage to feed the input on the other side. but like we both had mentioned, its easier to hook up the powered side to the spraying device, and have the embedded software and processor determine which ground of which output/spraying unit to short. but i'm asking because if this is possible, my dad and i can build advanced addon units that could probably work with the existing computers and be an easy to control side unit that don't require any software intervention, and can do a couple of things that require decisive action that could be upto the user themselves, or automated. this is wrapping the idea in a box and pitching it at baberuth and getting it hit outta the park, but the fact that it has voltage regulated input (now that i think about it, all inputs on any unit probably should be), im starting to realize the multitude of things that i KNOW people who use efi systesm don't take advantage of because they care not to deal with them. Oh, and i bought corky bells book as well as the EFI book listed in this thread as a couple o words to read when im on the bus going to work =) Ron, If awkwikz doesnt have his wolf unit when i need it (since it's already prepared for an RB), you'll be getting a call soon =) I've been looking at some PDF's and compared some units and it looks like a unit that i figured someone should have sworn by up until now. and i guess that's where you come in. LOL. im still working on a megasquirt for a 4agze gone turbo, so that should get me hyped up to do my own =)

if the combustion chamber is out of round, wouldn't that make it difficult to bore properly? or would it not be the same once bored to be round?

cool, i'll check it out. how would we arrange shipping? I've added your hotmail to my msn, so if you see my name "ralph" come up, accept it! I doubt it would matter with this block, regarding the DE or DET version, seeing as i wont be reusing the pistons. LOL. We'll keep in touch =)

got mine for free. still don't got the title. but i keep in touch with the lady who gave it to me. she's moving to a new place so the stuff is in boxes. needs a lot of work, but i'm doing it for the experience.

theres a GM Alternator that you can use that is an easy bolt on, and it's got a way better amperage and it's a lot more reliable from what people have said. there's a thread made already that has a link to a site that shows you how to cut the bracket to install it. you only need to cut the bracket once, and use a longer bolt. it's simple. search for threads made by me, and threads regarding my fuel pump and it will come up =)

i think the best thing to do is call the company, and basically act like a bitch. it's the best thing to do, if they won't own up to the fact. and if no one there can be held responsible, ask them to talk to someone who could be held responsible, or someone who has the power to correct the situation, by means other than a repurchase, or reshipping the item. if that doesn't work, a letter to the Nissan Motorsports head, or the buyer at the website you bought the gasket from is always good measure. your engine will be built and assembled by the time anything happens, but you might just get a couple of free gaskets out of it in the future. my boss did this recently with Apple computers and they ended up sending him a new laptop. yah, it took a while, but if a company is content on sending a 2500 dollar laptop to someone who brought in a laptop worth about 800 dollars (even 1 day after the warranty expired), I'm sure Nissan could do something about it.

well i would be getting that, the Rb26 is the head only, but if it gets sold by the time i want to plonk down the cash, i might have to get an RB25DET setup

so looking at these pics do yo honestly think that it is workable? i think all the ancilliares are coming with it. minus head. i can get a rb26 head off someone here for a good price. then i would get new bearings and pistons and such during the summer to build it up as an NA motor. as well as other parts from courtesy nissan.

so you guys think that's a good block? even with all that rust on the walls?

washed? he cleaned them to see if there was any pitting. he's a good guy, i would trust him if he said it was fucked. he knows just as much about this particular engine as we do, considering all he's going by is the pics and such. but this engine has been sold. there is one in a bit better condition, so i need to know if it's a good price for 800, since im #2 on the list of engines. then there is one has been hit from the front, and the water pump pulley is broke, and the crank snout is probably bent, so that's a write off. block is probably cracked too. THEN there's this here, 400 bucks MAX i told him. that's pending what i hear about it here. Ideally what i'll be doing is boring it out and honing it somewhere around town (got friends who know friends so im sure i can get a deal)... but I'm questioning it's initial condition. the block outside looks better than the 800 dollar one, but look at the cylinder walls i dunnooooooo that piston looks like it was casted into the block like that. LOL

heres the RB30 that someone is selling me for 650 CDN, so thats like 580 US or something? I dunno. That's shipped to my door. Im gonna post the pics that I feel need to be looked at, the rest of the engine is in better off condition than whats displayed in these pics. Lemme know if you think that its not a good price. It's a series 2 block as well. any questions/concerns?

oxy-acetaline! =P (don`t listen to me)

is your username here on hybridZ reflective of how nice they were?!

prolly gonna sound like it's vomitting on idle. bleh.. bleh.. bleh.. bleh..

correct you are, alex. but i do know that there is a RB25 head that does not have VTC.

well if you called moser to get the same work done, then the person is a liar, if you called someone else to get that work done, well..... call moser? =P