Careless

haven't we been through like 800 of these threads?

I swear, I'm going to shoot myself in the face for putting money into my VG after seeing this thread. sure they're quite strong but I hate even having to go under there to drain the coolant from the block. *shudders* If it pops, I'm going to take my rebuilt+upgraded turbo and pop it on my L28E with megasquirt and toss it into the z31.

When I get home, I'll load up Nissan FAST and see if the engine mounts and oil pan exist =)

I like the idea of reverse flow heads. I always wondered why Ferrari and Lambo didn't take up on that idea. It makes sense with their gaping holes in the side-panels.

So much for crumple zones. Atleast you'd be able to kill a pack of werewolves if you magically happen blast through a 6 pack before blasting through a forest. But then I guess you'd feel at home amongst the trees. Amazing work, I must say!

Best way to get this done is start a group buy in the proper thread.

Then you need one of those plush well bolstered seats!

Ok, I ran every car that has a turbo that has a model designation of 30, 31, 32, and found nothing of the sort. That includes A30's, C31's, Y31's, etc. etc. I even ran the S chassis cars and other cars that I knew around the Z31 time period that might have this turbo... It may be a Nissan turbo, but the flange that gentlemen should not need a gasket. To prove what Jim told me (he's taken apart a dozen of the Nissan T3's, if not more), I checked all those cars. And only the Z31 was the turbo that did not have a part number for the gasket on the T3 model. So it's highly possible that there IS NO gasket for this particular bolt setup. And that would kind of make sense, seeing as it's got 7 bolts to hold it nice and flat.

well the thing is, you can't really just search for the item based on engines. you'd have to load up every car for that. one by one. some cars do have a different gauge and would require a different part/number as well. how knows. nissan is weird.

hey jerry, if this is the same turbo as the z31 T3, i was told by Jim at J&R / Monster Turbo / Garage Werx that it has no gasket. I think the T25 from the 88's came with a gasket, and that's the one I got in my kit. I ordered an 88 Gasket kit because the 87 gasket kit that my supplier had was for the non-W blocks. That does not have the Internal WG though, so it does not look like it's the proper gasket. Do you know what car it's from?

swaaaaaaaaaayte

They are? I didn't know. never shopped for tires really.

one wheel has the blades going forward. one wheel has the blades going backwards.

He stated that he was working on a Nissan Patrol. I think it's a VG30E.

You have TWO options. OPTION 1 All Nissan TPS are "servicable" to an extent. What you can do is take the TPS (both of them, old and new) and drill the two rivets out of the back. They are the circle shaped buttons that hold the backing plate on. when you drill them out, you can remove the plastic from the cover and you can see the contacts on the inside, and you can then wire them up the same. Then when you're done, you can use some hot-melt glue or some RTV to seal the body to the backing plate again, or you can use some zip-ties first to test it. I put the Zip-ties on mine and they never came off. OPTION 2 Use a multi-meter/volt-meter with continuity tester to and use an ohm-meter to find what lead goes where. On the Z31 300Zx Turbo, the TPS is just ON or OFF. It really only uses TWO of the wires. On other cars like the STANZA or the AUTO version of both cars (I think) there is one wire that is a voltage control, and it will output different voltage as its turned with the throttle body. This takes some time to get it correct, but it works and it's a cleaner install.

can I Get A Hell Yah?!

I'm seriously considering the purchase of those seats late next year so that they are not discontinued and I'd then have to pay triple to find a pair of suitable seats or get some made to look like that. I think they are the best looking race-bucket style classic seats. A little on the expensive side, but the detail on the air-buttons, the side bolstering smoothness, and the textured look of the back and butt rest... 9.5/10. I'd give them a 10, but I don't own them. That's the only thing I found wrong with them.

uhhhhhhhhhh, did you see this post I made? we got a bunch more donors, not just the R32... more like 200+ donor vehicles for sensors: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=948383&postcount=266

- Load "FAST MENU" - Nfmenu.exe - Click on "FAST System" - Choose the Region CD that you want to load (JP, GL, EL) - When loaded, go back to "FAST MENU" - Nfmenu.exe - Click on "Parts Master" - Take the part number and enter it in the respectively named input field, remove any spaces from the end if there are any (it will say: NUMBER IS MISSING) - Hit "SEARCH" and wait about 10 seconds if it's something that has a long list like the Temp Gauge Sensor. Start from beginning and repeat the process for each CD you load, as it does not search all of them together. This is true even if you have "Multiple Screens" checked off in the "Nfset.exe" setup tab named "ALL", so you must do it for each region.

well it's not your compression, that's for sure. those are excellent results for a 31 year old car.

would it be possible to get a plunger, lever, and arm from a 240z or make one that would work with the 280z parts?

might i add that working on any VG is a bitch. even in the car they came in! I can't see why you would go with the VG30DE anyways... as stated, the VG30E is strong enough, the heads are easy as piss to clean up around the valve seats and guides if you're willing to go that far (ports are large and easy to fit tools into), and working on the motor as it came in the 87 is already hard enough, believe me! Don't bother putting a DE in there. I'd put an SR20 in there before a TT. Nissan FSM: "to facilitate engine head removal, remove engine"

Mechanical Boost guages will need a vacuum line going to a vacuum port on the manifold. If you want to run the original Boost Guage from a Nissan Cluster, you need a "Boost Sensor" which I know are located infront of the drive side strut mount. Here's some info on RB20DET Boost Sensor and Factory Guage wiring (Nico): To get the boost gauge to work you will need the boost pressure sensor from the clip (near the brake master cylinder) and the associated wiring. If you remove the chassis harness and unwrap the boost sensor plug all the way back to the SMJ (huge wire connector deal) you will have more than enough wire to run to the cluster. The wires for the boost pressure are as follows White/blue goes to the gauge cluster for the boost gauge Black/yellow is ground, so tie it into a ground. Green is the power wire so tap it into the ignition switch wire on the cluster (also green).

AHA! I knew something like this could be done. check it: http://intellivationdesign.com/4Runner/TachMod.htm Potentiometers are the way to go for testing.

I thought it was 25080-89903, unless your S14 sensor works after more testing? for the tachometer, it might make sense to hook up two tachs to the engine, and use a linear potentiometer (or various ones) of different values and rotate the dial until both tachs are reading the same engine RPM. I mean using an aftermarket known-to-work tach and a standard tach. just a thought. Not sure if it would work, as the resistor may just limit the resistance to a set RPM, but at least you could find out what the ohm's reading on the potentiometer is, and do some math to figure out what kind of a conditioning circuit we would need.