Careless

There can be a number of reasons for the mayonaisse in your oil, but all return to moisture. Did you leave the oil cap off? Did you leave a vent line off? Did you have very humid days and possibly left these off during that time? There should be oil lines on the block that go to the turbo, but they are threaded lines that accept Banjo fitting bolts. The only oil passage that takes a hose would be the sump oil return line, and the only other non-water hose would be the PCV or vacuum/EGR system on some cars. At least that's what I remember from ordering all the RB parts. Raff

Drove the car to work today and around the city to give it a car wash, high-way car-drying run, bank deposit (FAIL, out of service!) and some food. annnnnnnd then a nice cigar for my efforts. The GL4 I put in worked great. It was bone dry when I checked the fill hole. I put 1.4 or so litres in there, and it was dryyyyyyyyyyyy. So I filled it until the fill plug leaked, and then I lowered the car so that it would level out, then raised it and plugged it. 2nd gear is still a little crunchy, I think a new trans is in order in a couple of months. Gotta save money though, so I'll wait till this trans goes kaboom. As for the GL-4 oil, You can get AMSOIL "Synthetic Manual Tranmission Lubricant 75W90 API GL-4" from an amsoil distributor. Just make it explicitly clear that you need the bottle with the RED LABEL that says GL-4 on the front, in big yellow letters. NOT their 75W90 "GEAR LUBE". cost is about 15 bucks a bottle. get 3.

It's a good feeling, but I'll say you've had better "first drive" luck than I have had with my Z31. Two years in a row. but anyway. speaking of "first drive" days. I just insured my Z31 an hour ago with the new VG33ET engine and I'm getting some tranmission fluid tonight as well (special order GL-4! NO ONE CARRIES THIS STUFF!). I'll be driving her tonight too. congrats! I know the feeling, and will have had it 3 times over tonight!

no longer growly.... i put the exhaust on today. LOL. still sounds like it's leaking a slow bit... but I'm not concerned. going to replace it sometime soon any how. glad there's no oil though. those moly rings seated pretty quickly.

LOL thanks. It might work with a vq35... however, when it reaches operating temperature and hot coolant overflows the filler neck the bottle begins to turn really soft. lol. it's a good temporary trick. but in hindsight I should have removed it when not in use. Also, you gotta wrap the cap-threads in electrical tape for a good seal. LOL. GHETTO!

Video Here! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1y9GgUOzsc

Figured I'd give this an update. So I built it. I have completed my Z31 VG33 Quest motor. This was more of a forced-build, as I always wanted to build an engine... but in this case it was either build an engine or sell the car. And then it went from "october you gotta get the car out of the garage" to "in september, the house is going to be sold, so you need to move". Sucks, but when you want something done fast, you pay more money. SO here is what I ended up with: I'd like to show my appreciation to 1fastS13 who just clued me in on my oil-feed line hole... glad it wasn't blanked off like his, and Chris86NA2T for answering some questions in a speedy fashion, as well as Racinjitter and Beck for being mentors and great sources of information and parts that I'd be otherwise somewhat embarrassed to ask on a forum without getting flamed, since this is my first 100% complete engine build being done by myself and not under the direction of others. 88sinZ also gets honourable mention for posting his findings on the VG33 and pictures of his modifications on Z31p. I hope I didn't forget anyone, but thanks anyways. I can post more details if anyone is interested, but I'll be moving around and putting the finishing touches on the car to get it insured and mobile, so I may not be back in here as often as I'd like. As for how it feels... at 2000rpm if I just lightly jab the throttle about an inch, the car will shoot to 5000rpm in an instant. This is, of course, under no load and in the driveway. I think the increase in bore size and the lightweight flywheel (which is now balanced... it was 3 grams out) make this engine very responsive. I've still got power steering to address, and I have to run the motor for a while with no boost... but so far, even with the over-sized rings for the top and expander rings, it seems to burn absolutely no oil. The first oil change was grimey... All the comp-cams break in lube, crank/cam guard, assembly lube, moly lube, and fuel from priming the system and having the distributor out 180 degrees made it somewhat murky... but it was relatively clean. It's been purged with fresh conventional oil and I hope to have the exhaust on tomorrow and adjust the Fast Idle control so that I can take her for a spin. Video is being uploaded to youtube right now.

I've had a worthy/mentionable experience doing this. The best method I found was to heat it up so it becomes brittle, then to hit it with the wire-wheel. This is best done in the areas that are tight fits with the wire wheel, because it makes the undercoating very brittle. You can then use a brass brush too. When a wire wheel won't fit, you can get a "wire sprout" or a "wire cup" to fit into the tight areas. I find attaching it to a regular corded drill is the best way. And if you have a hammer drill that has a side-arm attachment that you can use, and a switch to put it to non-hammer mode... that would be your best bet. A needle scaler will work just as well, but you MUST heat it to the point where it gets crusty, or you will just waste your time. The only downside is that you have to do it outside if you're heating it up, as the dark fumes that rise from the embrittlement of the undercoating tend to linger and hover at your ceiling, and overnight they will land on whatever is closest to the ceiling. So anything that is set up high will have a nice filmy black dust on them. A good idea is to have a wet-dry vac ready to suck in the fumes using the air-borne element filters.

my oil support rails and top rings were out of spec on my vg33 using 0.75mm oversized pistons and rings. my machinist bored them "slightly" wider, by like a quarter of a thou (those were his words)... which is very small when you think about it. he did it from his experience in building engines that people push to the limits, i guess. But either way, the 0.75 rings were way too large in the gap... so I got the rings for the 1.00mm pistons and they fit right in, the concentricity looks even, and I had to file the gap for the top rings and the oil support rings. I ended up using the second and expander oil rings from the 0.75mm set. starting it up in the coming days to see how it is.

6inline, what ex manifold is that?

hopefully a hone can get rid of the low compression on that cylinder with a new nissan piston and some rings.

how'd you break the piston? ring land failed? crown melted? I was kinda hoping you went with the 25 from the get-go. i thought the 20 was too small for this truck. EDIT: So what I'm saying is, sorry for the loss, but glad you came out with moar win!

It would be cool, still be expensive, may or may not require a lot of work to get going, and could be done easier with other inline 6's that would be less time/money to fabricate and install, and in the end, you still don't have the famed Nissan or OS Giken heads that people drool over, because they're original items from the era. However. I want to see this running, and if it does run, I want to see more of them happen because that would just rock.

He claimed 380bhp @ 8100 RPM, and said that 30hp was gained from switching to dry sump. so 350bhp sounds fair.

There's a fellow in NZ floating around with an RB30 that has an RB25 VTC head on it, making something like 200rwkw or so (I think about 190 actually) with the stock computer on a horrible tune running some dirty fuel pressure increase to keep it at bay. Go to r31 skyline forums, you'll find him there and you can assess what needs to be done to get decent power out of the RB25 in N/A trim. I think 250rwhp is attainable if you run some really high compression, and some nicely flowing exhaust, but on the 2.5 litre it's really stretching it. infact, I think 300 flywheel hp is attainable too, but how far up in the revs do you want to go with the hydraulic lifter head?

not sure how the rb26 dominates the LS1 in stock form. But hey, I like them better anyway.

I'm not quite sure if this post is supposed to be here. It has info regarding your skill as a pipe bender and welder, and then pics of your broken timing belt tooth and word of your broken head bolt. are you going to be posting pictures of your exhaust work at least from other cars? I'd like a z31 exhaust. so I'm curious.

woah, you actually got those seats! those are my fav s30 fit seats. aweeeeeeeeeesome.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Today there's an empty spot in the garage where my real first car was. It's a shame I never got to drive it. The Crombies (CanadianZ) came to get my Datsun 280z that I had plans for the RB30... But I got way in over my head and spent more on the engine and my Z31 than I did in time and money on the S30. The body was too far gone, and I got to the point of almost total strippage, when I realized I needed another car to get around (2 years later I'm still not mobile, due to untimely engine failure on the Z31). The L28 that was in there is in very good lick, and I'm sure they'll be using it well. I saw those two eyeing my RB30... YEAH I SAW THAT. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO now that my VG33.5ET is almost complete (circa this weekend, ready to go into car mid next week), I will be bringing the RB30 to my father's house where I'll be tearing it down neatly and having it tanked, and then I'll be spec'ing out some pistons and doing the head-work slowly over the winter. I'm going to ask my father to dedicate a small corner of the basement to my RB30. It never came with a car and all the parts that are going in are new, except for the crank and the main girdle + block itself. So it's cleaner this way. Anyway... how cool would that be? A Z31 with an ITB stack peeking out of the hood a likkle-bit? Since the VG requires no body modifications, I could then transfer the VG33 to an engine stand to refreshen the engine or plop in some cams and do some intake manifold modifications over the course of the next two years (other mods include nistune, injectors, larger turbo, FMIC, and full z0rst), perhaps with Wolf V500 to control it all if it's workable with the stock digital dash (I like it, so what?!). And I can check to see how the RB30 will fit in there. *time to go dream*

ask these guys if they make one for the 26. http://cgi.ebay.com/Sniper-Racing-Clear-Cam-Gear-Cover-R32-RB20-R33-RB25_W0QQitemZ370243242242QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5634378902&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116#ht_4498wt_939

those are some heavy duty axles. i bet those nittos hooking had something to do with the those axels going poof! the looseness or play in the shafts is probably from the CV design. perhaps being of a different design they require a lot more free play to operate at higher power levels. who do you know that runs these and what kind of power/tq are they making?

Yeah, it's possible. make a break away harness for the gauges and such, and you'll be ok.

looks like the head design and the twin turbo setup of the RB26 really push a lot lot lot lot more air than the RB25 does in stock form. I didn't think it was a 100+ rwhp difference in "non-nissan" testing.

looks the same as the FS5W71C shifters. I got one on the Z31 and it makes a world of a difference. Doesn't feel like I'm churning butter anymore.

That's how we do it up North. hehehe good stuff. low 11's are quaking in their boots right now!