Careless

it could work. best would be to take the oil pan off. take some measurements of the engine, and then take your VG30 out of your m30 and plop your oil pan over the subframe and see what needs to be changed. Also, let me know when you start removing stuff from the M30. I may need parts from it depending on where you're located.

nistune - (paid for!) injectors fuel rails and fittings poly transmission mount and bushings intercooler kit and intercooler blow-off valve shortly thereafter. next paycheque means the end of my debts, or very very near. get rid of those first!

pics?

lol you got something against a mazda you roll around with?

I think it will fit, but you'll most likely have to do engine first and then trans from underneath. You will have to start looking for block hugger headers too, and perhaps work the collector back some and weld on a tight angle or adapter that can make use of the space. I had to remove my balancer to get my crank snout to clear with my z31 hood on just to put the vg33 back in, which has the same dimensions as the vg30. I think it will be an interesting project and you'll be looking at other things to keep the car from turning into a pretzel when you get it running.

you will definitely have to remove the hood, raise the car very high, and use a chain lift to enter the engine into the bay at an almost vertical angle. If not, you'll have to cut the front hood latch support bar. The stock vg30 doesn't clear it without removing the balancer, and that 472 looks twice as big. That is... if you intend to put it all in as one piece, assembled and such.

New thread created at: OBX Differential Inspection and Installation Lets keep the OBX vs. Quaife discussion in here, and the installation and reviews in the other. Thanks TrumpetRhapsody. Nice work on clearing things up a bit.

Trumpet, can you button up this thread with pictures of the proper orientation of all the parts and maybe a small caption as to why you orient them the way you do? The inverse gears from obx's assembly, the circlips, the washers... for someone to scour this thread and buy an OBX and dive in is a little bit of a wash considering everyone is posting different findings and what not. I think the best we can do is have one short pictoral walkthrough of what to look for and how it should look when finalized. No pressure. I think it would clear this thread up a lot more.

If I ever get the RB30DE going, I'm definitely going to use the 240sx gear housing and the RB20 bell housing. I don't think the engine will have the torque to kill those boxes if they're in good shape to begin with, and I can find a KA24 box pretty cheap, so I will have a driveshaft already matched. It would also make the car lighter and parts are easier to come by. My FS5R30A is starting yell at me from time to time... I can't find a replacement.

Good to see the clothes-hanger turnbuckle I was going to use for my PS Pump was tried by someone else first. Looks like it would work fairly well I think everyone who previously bought from jdizzy was happy with their engines, so rest assured, you'll get a good block to work with. Raff

someone on here held up with 444whp from an SR20 on an FS5W71C, and I believe Enjuku held one for some time with a 550+whp SR20. SR20's make a torque equivalent to the hp, so it shouldn't be TOO bad on a stock 25.

I always thought the thrust bearing in the center allowed the load to be taken off the rear cylinder to reduce the wobble effect at high RPM that you would induce in an inline 6 if you were to slow down the rear-most cylinder/main and let front-most cylinder/main exert more rotational force at the opposite end of the crank... Just playing the devils advocate here. What's the reason? Did it fail on you before? Because I believe the RB engine platform was designed this way because it proved to be successful in distributing vibration/torsion throughout the crankshaft. I really don't think the center main is as much of an issue as the vibration is. Are the 2JZ's thrust washers not situated on the center main as well?

The simple fact that you get someone who's shared his trials and tribulations and has had local members pop in and catch a glance or two and a ride in the car to attest to it's drive-ability and performance is second to none when looking at the pricing. I think anywhere between 2000- 3000 shipped is a steal of a deal considering what we've witnessed here and who's backing his product. Rock on, D-block!

I'm willing to bet that attitude towards building a Z turned many retired individuals on this site into broke high-school kids. LOL. moderation is key!

Ok. Updating this thread. just finished putting power steering onto my VG33ET finally. This post was transfered from the Z31Performance forum, so some things may sound weird or refer to "other threads". So here's what has to be done. NO coolant pipe mods. I just had a broken bolt in the alternator bracket so I used a VG30ET exhaust manifold washer to keep the bolt out about 3 or 4mm from the alternator bracket. The coolant pipe goes on exactly as it would on the Z31 with VG30ET. Infact, every coolant pipe does. For the heater cores, etc. etc... So this means the ONLY thing one must do to get the VG33 to go RIGHT into a Z31 with VG30ET parts is to use all z31 parts where you can: water pump and pulley oil pan (slightly modified) pickup tube slightly modified upper intake lower intake thermo housing and piping lower coolant pipe upper timing cover (may not be neccessary) exhaust manifolds power steering head mount power steering adjustment bracket alternator block-mount alternator adjustment bracket with z31 mounting bolt and 1 inch (or so) spacer to line the bracket up with the alternator. turbo parts and oil lines (check for oil feed once you remove the plug) flywheel, clutch, etc. The Quest/VG33 parts I used are: Cylinder Heads (can use z31 heads, but vg33's have better port design and manifold studs are larger). Connecting Rods (same as z31 W-series) Pistons Engine Block Crank & Crank Pulley Oil Pump with VG33 Pathfinder Oil Filter Adapter Retained the Block Heater element and the Knock Sensor in the cylinder valley to use as plugs. modifications to the power steering pump are as follows: grind just about 3/8ths of an inch off the top pump mounting hole where the head-mounted bracket receives the bolt to hold/swivel the pump. (see pic in previous post with detailed close-ups) put a 3/8ths worth of washers or a spacer... one behind the pump where the mounting bolt goes through to push it forward, and one behind the adjustment bracket to line it up with the pump. take a 4 Rib 420 to 430 size belt length, and use a new exacto blade to cut one rib off the entire circumference of the belt. If you do it carefully you can barely tell it has been done (and consequently, you can perhaps return it without them knowing if you use a belt that's too long the first time around, like i did). I recommend going with a 420 belt rather than the 430 I have. This will allow you to tension the belt properly and have thread on the adjustment rod left over. I am maxed out on the adjustment rod, so I can see myself getting a new belt when this one starts squeeling. I have about two or 3 turns of the adjustment rod nut before it's not going any further. ALSO, one last note... when trying belts, remember that you MUST remove the bolt that goes through the adjustment bracket and bolts into the adjustment rod, or it will touch the coolant pipe (now that the entire power steering adjustment assembly has been moved forward). If you remove the bolt, it will swing behind the coolant pipe, then you can push the belt on and then push the pump back and have someone hold the pump up tight or block it with some wood or a wedge of somesort so you can use both hands to put the bolt back through the adjustment rod (which should now clear the lower coolant pipe). It's very hard to select a belt that's too small because it will either not fit right, or you are pushing too hard on the pump to get it on tight, and thus, it will be putting stress on the line going from the reservoir to the back of the pump. DO NOT force it or remove it to find a smaller belt, as you would never be able to thread the adjustment rod bolt back in and tighten it properly to avoid the belt from coming loose. DO NOT mess this up. Flying belts can cut your lower or upper hoses or slash them to the point where pressure will kill them off when you start getting a lot of heat through the block and generate a lot of pressure in the cooling system. Get it right, and it will work. So far so good. I'll update as time passes. (and don't rag on me for cutting a rib off the belt, they do not make 3 rib belts that are longer than 390 or so I've been told... or I can't find them. and cutting the belt was something I was weary of, but after doing it... it looks just like any other machine would have cut it anyways... so to you if you'ze a hater! I GOTS POWER STEERING. WOOT WOOT) SOOOOO that brings an end to my accessory mounting and VG33ET stock-fitment build up using the Quest crank & pulley unless I decide to add Air Conditioning back into the mix. Essentially it's no more difficult than a NA2T conversion if you choose to go that far, and these engines are much more available nowadays in my location rather than the NA or VG-T engines that our cars came with. So to recap. The deepest you need to go into this engine is manifolds, timing belt/waterpump, and oil-pickup and pan. Thanks to everyone for your input and patience, and let me know if you have any questions.

I didn't even notice that sleeve when I had my VG33 crank nitrided. Had the machinist not noticed it was in there before sending it off to nitriding, I would have had a heck of time trying to drill and remove it!

Well for starters... 1) getting a new distributor would alleviate some problems found when buying used or worn parts, and you could be assured that it's more likely to work than something that is used and from someone trying to make a sale, However we do have some trustworthy individuals here. 2) I have a 12Si alternator that is an upgrade with little modification to the standard hitachi alternators. It's a 94 amp or something from an 84 Camaro, and it's an original rebuilt Delco Remy casing, not the cheaper newers chinese made ones. It cools a lot better and has been internally rebuilt with all new parts and cleaned through and through. HOWEVER, it's at a friends house for him to sell it for me to Camaro guys... so Unless I visit him (2 hours away), I wouldn't have a chance to sell it to you. But if you search you could find some info regarding 12si and 10si alternator upgrades, or CS144 alternators too. 3) Scared of triple webbers? come on.

And doubling search results for the next person who does use that godly feature!

Excellent achievement, congrats!

Small update: Weighed an RB26 head today, upright/vertically. No cams. All cam caps installed. All valves, springs and retainers installed. No lifter cups or shims. No covers. 45.2 lbs. so for shipping purposes, 48lbs sounds about right without the cams or valve covers.

You'll have to take that "chance" to find out.

sorry, just to correct my previous post. the relay box is located near the power steering pump... the vacuum/air pump you have is near the front of the car, behind the passenger foglight. it's held on by two 12mm bolts. if it's turning on, chances are the diaphragm is good, and when u take the cover off it will still be shiney. as for the your heater being bypassed. it's because you have to remove the entire dash to replace your leaky heater core, which the previous owner didn't wanna do.

had that problem too. it's the vacuum pump at the front, near the power steering pump. http://www.thumper300zx.com/z31/vacuum/new_vacuum_tank.jpg once you replace the lines with new ones (and you should!) your cruise and heat will work well, and your car will no longer have vacuum leaks. the hissing could be an injector that's stuck open, or the vacuum pump is asking for air all the time. Mine would always make that sound... fix it, and after it's operating fine for a drive or two it won't turn on for mroe than a couple of seconds. now it doesnt make that sound anymore because the diaphragm is probably being pulled by vacuum well now. my heat works too.

easiest way would be to take the door panel off slightly, and peel back any plastic vapor barrier and move the window as you do to test the movement.. you'll see whether it's a plastic clip of some sort or a bracket/bolt that needs attention. get a panel clip puller at napa for 1 dollar. it's delicate surface friendly and won't marr anything.

The air pump is at the front near the power steering pump and it has 4 vac hoses going to it. the air suspension has vacuum hoses coming from it to. Not sure exactly where they go, as I don't use them anymore, but I can see someone making that mistake, as the air suspension does have a vacuum tube going somewhere that comes out of each strut tower hat... but it could just be a vent tube for all i know.