Careless

Can I just give you the money for a pack of office-depot knock-off sharpies (hey, 12 in a box for 5 bucks!), and you then write my name in bubble letters on both sides???

RTV on my pan. engine isn't leaking a drop! And the VG engines have the crank oil seal retainers/pump protruding from the deck, so it's harder to get it to seal right. I use Permatex "Right Stuff" which is what Nissan used (equivalent) on their pan seals for the last 4 Nissan motors I disassembled. Comes in Grey or Black. I used Grey. As Tony D said, don't overtorque. I torqued just a slight hair over what the manual called for, and I used split lock and brass washers. You're going to have fun trying to apply that stuff now from underneath the car. Might as well make a list of things you didn't change when you rebuilt it, and see if you have the money to make those changes since your only option may be to remove the motor and put it on a stand.

Have you any idea what your engine speed would be at say... 70mph in 5th gear? I'm contemplating changing my final drive... not quite sure if it would be a good idea yet.

I'll go find her for you!

looks great, Dave. Even though untimely, I think you'll find solace in knowing that your car is mostly rust free in the rear and will stay that way for a while with a fresh coat of paint and a thorough once-over by professionals in the biz! Welcome back, Dave's Z!

I always felt the same way too for city driving. But when you take the car through it's paces at the track and your water temp starts to go up, so does the oil temp, especially on Wide Open Throttle situations like a long back-straight. So monitoring both temps the first time you go out should be the #1 concern. If all is well after a hard run at the track for a lengthy period, then you have nothing to worry about Regarding the aluminum thick core rads. They're awesome. With my Z31 rad that was custom made under another member's supervision, I have never seen the gauge go over the middle bar on the digital dash. It went once, but that's because my fan blades zipped right off my fan motor and the motor was just free-spinning. After I fixed that, I never saw the gauge go over half. I even put it in 4th and ran on the high-way at something like 3,200 rpm for a minute or two straight to see if the temps would kick up a notch. Oil temp went up a smidgen, and water temp stayed cool as can be.

I had a 280z that I gave away to a good home that had 46,000 miles and was rusty as hell. Looking at it's total worth is not the first way to go into buying one of these cars, as that 280z would have been worth nothing, regardless of the miles. Find the one with the least rust. It's the most important. the green one looks good, take pics of underneath. don't worry bout the hatch-lid rust. not a big deal.

why 4.11? I was considering that too, but I have some friends in the know... they're telling me that if you're going for big boost, you'll run out of gear, top end, and most importantly, have to shift more often, thus loosing a lot of the boost you build through that short gear. At that point you'll go no where. you will be slower with the 4.11 the 240sx has a 4.06 I think, and there is also the 3.9 from the Z31. perhaps those are better options? For an ultra responsive turbo application, like say, a small turbo on a higher compression motor... makes sense. HX40? 4.11? i dunnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnno. would like to see how it works out.

Awesome! someone trip the Hannibal @ A-Team switch!

Don't know what the hell I was thinking when I posted that. Thanks for correcting me. LOL.

before you do that, open the gauge and look for a button-cell battery. batteries of that type have a short shelf-life and usually they're what keeps the power constant to the unit when the car is shut off. replace it and it should hold your data.

in all seriousness, if this thread continues in this fashion it's going to be removed. i'm seeing a lot of "clutter" here.

Please use the search function. This has been covered over and over and is also linked via those passed threads to forums with even more information, one thread spanning close to 300 pages worth of posts. I advise reading it through to get a good idea if whether or not you'd like to invest the money into an RB30 build. The N1 is supposed to be the strongest of the RB blocks due to reinforced main-journal and main-skirt webbing. I've not seen pics of a comparison between that and a standard RB26 or 30 block, but that's what the people who have will tell you.

That's because they're considered "Replacement" engine assemblies and are sold to those who already have N1 equipped vehicles, just as a side note.

If you're looking for the best in melt-down protection, take a look at the Taylor 409 "Flame Jacket" wires. Actually, just download the PDF Catalog of the Taylor wires, and you will see that they have a wire set that has a sheath that is good for upto 1900*F or something like that. Perhaps even more... They come in any colour too, but I know their top heat-resistant type only comes in one colour due to it's proprietary "Flame Jacket" material.

Is that too thick for an entire exhaust system? What's the general thickness of a good stainless system that's not too heavy.

by sensor, you mean Cam Angle Sensor, I presume. If so, you can swipe them from the following vehicles at the junkyard. They're all the same.

Stony, it must be giving you quite the head-ache if you got a bottle of meds sitting atop the car, always in close reach. try an ice cold Canadian beer, it works better!

so what you're saying- if i got this right, trwebb26- is that you want the angles of the driveshaft u-joints to be parallel, so if a line was drawn from the two u-joints pointing in the direction of their angles, they would never cross? moreover, I've read that a 3 degree drive-line angle is the max that should be used and is actually better than a straight drive for two reasons.. 1) impact resistance. the driveshaft will move before the entire rear subframe does if there is a head-on collision, resulting in less overall damage. 2) bearing loading. the driveshaft cocked at a 3 degree angle will force the rotation of the entire bearing so that each ball bearing wears out evenly as it spins at all times, rather than the driveshaft sitting in the dead-middle of the bearing and sometimes free-spinning. Not sure which is true or not, but those were two schools of thought I've been told by various people.

Why are you pulling the engine out of the GTR to begin with, or what's the reason for going head first into it? Not having the experience in doing so, what would lead you believe it's the right thing to do at this point? "before I start buying some parts up" what parts are you considering? To fit the RB20DET, for starters, into a Z31, you need to buy a Z31 200ZR oil pan which is now discontinued. I sold mine for 400 CAD, so you will have trouble finding out, I can assure you that. Really I don't see the point in buying another car to gain experience, unless you daily use the GTR... That's a different story. Tell us more of the "why".

That looks like shannonviiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiille raceway Let me know when you'll be there next. I need to see this beast.

Nissan now uses stamped steel impellers on many of their water pumps. I have had both versions of nissan water pumps. Can't say I saw a difference though, but I'm sure the design does do something to flow for sure.

put roughly 400 km on her now. still running strong. feels like it has just as much torque/hp at 0psi (waste gate actuator is tied open for engine break in period) as a VG30ET does with stock 7psi or so of boost. My transmission likes to yell at me and my alternator belt sounds like I'm trying to skin a cat at 3 in the morning when I'm parking her. engine feels like it's giving off excess heat, but the only heat shields I put on are the ones to protect the brake booster. The temp gauge is fully operational and since I've slotted and pinned the taurus fan blades to the motor the temp gauge has not went passed half, because the Racinjitter radiator special that I have has kept it nice and cool. I wanna take some video to compare 0 boost to 7 psi. I'm going to be changing oil sometime this week/weekend. I gotta find a spare rear subframe to install subframe spacers into and clean up so that I can swap them in directly once I remove the rear subframe from my car. If I can get all the parts within the next couple of weeks, I can have it all in over a weekend and before it starts to rain every day. Torque monster!!!!!! I yell "TORQUEEEEEEEEE" when i drive. i really do. Raff

Same here. In fact I did a bit of a custom job on the fuel pump. I took off the top plate, de-varnished all the gears and dowels and surfaces using 600 and then 1200 grit sandpaper, cleaned it out with some brake clean that was non-chlorinated and safe for use on rubber parts... I tried using a large screw and driving it into the filter screen to use as a grip to pull it out, but it would not budge, so I blew it out from the inside with 60psi of air and some brake clean. then since the o-ring is a tear drop shape, you either have to get it from nissan, or you can buy a suitable sized round o-ring and heat it up slightly with a lighter and pinch and stretch it carefully into shape.... which is what i did. Then put a touch of grease in the o-ring groove, and lay the o-ring in and close the fuel pump using new stainless bolts and lock washers. After doing that the car started for the first time in what I was told was 25 years.

yes, rocker cover vents. i had mine open for a while and moisture built up in the cap. you may get good results from running a cleaner like auto-rx, or even b12 chemtool to remove any varnishing of old oil and dry the remaineder of the oil gallery and what not. can't guarantee it will repair a moisture leak... its weird how it's still there. is there always MORE under the oil cap when u take it off?