Careless

I was going to suggest a combo of what both you and nigel suggested, but then I noticed that the manifold actually looks like there's not enough room on the side of the stud for a nut there, or even a washer.. almost as if it's been casted slightly askew.

baaaaaaaaahahahahaha

does it work ok in all conditions? not that you would be driving it in a hail storm or ontario blizzard anyway, but sometimes you have no choice but to have fun

I'm going to keep this simple and completely answer your questions, and offset your questions by 1 number, starting with number 1: 1) Search 2) Remove driveshaft, remove tranny mount, remove bolts, remove transmission. All depends on how you mount your engine really. 3) Parts are easy to come by, they've been here for more than 2 years on the road, legally. Parts can be bought form Nissan if you have the Part Number (I can help find it), and usually you want to upgrade anyway. 4) Stony clocked a low-mid 11 second run on his stock RB26 with 12psi. Very good by today's swap standards. Do you need to beat a 360 Modena on your way to Wal Mart to buy DVD's? keep it realistic, and it will impress you to no end. 5) Valve train might need some Tomei B-spec or tougher parts. Cams indefinately to make power in that range, rather than restrict. Stronger internals for sure, especially rod-bolts. Do you need to rev that high? Personal Opinion = keep revs lower, make power sooner, shift gears quicker, keep engine longer, change tires faster.

I think Tim made a good point about the pressures in that rear area of the plenum. Perhaps the best Idea is to find a manufacturer who makes bovs that all use the same flange and cover wider ranges, and see if you can distribute their bovs with your plenum for desired applications. That way the design is known, and tested, and can be placed where it wont cause an issue. I don't know where else you could put it since we don't know how much room you'd have in the engine bay yet, right? EDIT: or, you can just forget about the bov completely, and have the customer install mid pipes if they want, between the compressor outlet and plenum inlet. lol... much more simple and cost effective, and easier to upgrade to if you already have a bov.

Oh in that case, maybe I can take the shifter out of my friend's Micra, because i can hit all 4 corners of what would be the 300zx's shift box, but I can do it while it's actually in gear.

by back corner you mean that area of very high pressure near the rear cylinder, right? That looks like the perfect place. how far away from the exhaust manifold would this plenum be situated? perhaps you can modify the back corner so there is a flange on the underside?

you do great work!

180 ft lbs... you got off lucky. RB engines are 300+

I'm going to make this post, and wait for RacinJitter to chime in and tell everyone about the 30lbs bag of bondo and fibreglass that I've been saving in the passenger area of my s30, so that I can total it all up. It would be twice the weight if I had not used a wire wheel to strip the rest of the bondo off after I realized that using a hot metal scraper and a heat gun was just too time consuming. IT IS relaxing though =) my advice to anyone taking on a big project like this is to expect a surprise and prepare for it. save some extra cash should there be an unforseen issue, and definately make sure that you take your time. IT ALWAYS shows up in the end. A high build primer won't be your saving grace, so don't rely on it.

your setup is looking pretty awesome

welcome to my world!

nice write up, scoots! pics are a little blurrage though

That looks like the ramp on that cam is a lot tighter, and would contribute to excessive valve-train wear. It looks like it would also make the valve open at a much steeper point than a nice rounded lobe that would allow it to open gradually. But I believe a grind like this would allow extra pressure to build up at the valve head before full lift, and with it trying to squeeze passed the narrower opening it would, as you had mentioned, be a good torque grind. But for CFM, I can see the highest point of the lobe being the only thing good about it. I'd actually trade off more radius for more ramp. Save the valve train campaign...

Aren't there any junkers in new south wales that you could get the engine from? My source just sent 6 of them over on the last crate. And he told me how much he paid. And I had a buddy in Australia willing to ship a single engine which he picked up for 100 bucks, but the shipping for a single engine would have been stupid expensive. Go around and see what you find. Just don't act surprised when you hear how cheap they sell for.

or find some tall leaves and build a storm shelter

that's really awesome man, I would enjoy doing something like that in school =)

you will get a pop 9 times out of 100 because you most likely have a cat converter, which will absorb a lot of the gasoline that is being dumped in there, and it will also clog the crap out of it, and sooner or later it will stink and it will only every get hot enough the first couple of times in order to burn the gasoline at such a fast rate (well enough to start the combustion in the catalytic chamber). do this with a "test pipe" and it will continue to fire off shots for as long as you like to do it for.

anywhere from 500 - 1000 or more. they WILL get sold. bottom line. it might take time so the sellers usually don't bottom out. I just sold two, one for 500 and one for 350, as a combo deal due to the condition of one of them, and the other taking space. You're in Australia... you can find one for about 50 bucks.

hey a friend of mine told me about that trick too... glad to hear it works =) he said it's usually the weather cracked rubber, and it's an indication of how good the quality of the insulation is from company to company if put under the same conditions.

Hey Kevin, Give me a couple of years, until I finish my RB30DE and my car itself, and then I'll start my TB48DE build. 2010, same bat time, same bat thread. you'll come back to this thread... yes you will... ohhhh yes...... you..... will.. Raff

is the aerotech still available? i like the front bumper and want to try something with the 280z if it's possible to mount it on one.

If I had time to do such a thing for you guys, I would. Maybe I can do it on the next weekend. Don't hold your breathe. If you like it the way it is, then use 'em... but I personally would not use a scan for something textual. That's just how I do it at work, so I wouldn't do it any other way.

it sounds like a Lion had a really bad lunch, and he's pissed about it. LOL. Man it brings back some memories from me starting the L28 the first time. sounds quite similar actually. :trippen:chyeaaaaa!

I saw someone once cut a hole in some safety glass for a back-ho at my uncles repair shop. What he did was use a special cutting tool to make a circular shaped cut, and slowly turned it into a rounded rectangle so as to not have to "chip" pieces off and create stress points. He did that by using a rotary tool of some sort. and he did a damn good job too. I do remember him fastening something onto the window, though I believe it was soggy masonite, to allow it to conform to the contour of the window. It also had bricks taped to the edges to allow the weight of the brick to keep the soggy masonite held down, as well as duct tape wrapped around it too. This was with the window "unbolted" from the unit, and surprisingly enough... one of the only back-hos i remember seeing with any rounded panes in his shop.