SteelToad

They look a lot like the steel ones that blackdragonauto.com used to sell.

I think the lambo doors look nice, even though they are highly impractical, and with the weight and size of the Z doors, they would need CONSTANT adjustments just to keep them fitting right. The car sits low enough that you're going to have to "dance" your way into the car. I like suicide doors as well, but on the Z, the seat back is right beside the door frame. You'd be putting your butt in the door hinge just to sit down, all while holding onto your window trim/pillar for balance. Take your doors off, and try getting in and out of the seat (on both sides) a couple dozen times with nothing to hold on to. You'll quickly find that the doors work best right where they are

Man, I'm so jealous of all you guys with finished cars

The shop used something called mar-glass (sp). I tried shaking the h*ll out of it and couldnt get a crack. BTW, thats the type II fender not the type III

It's not impossible to blend it with big flares but it is a heck of a lot of work

The really funny thing is that with the way AC units and generators are both shrinking, it's almost feasible. I just picked up a little 4000 btu AC, it's so small I can almost fit two of them side by side in the window.

I would think that tapping and threading epoxy would introduce some weaknesses. Why not just use a connecting studs, that way you could just put one end into the wet epoxy and let it cure.

Pricey at $89 but MSA has one http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PRC01/10-1858 Description: Properly mates the GM transmission and the Datsun speedometer. Model Guide: Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z Year Guide: 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978 I'm sure there are others out there

If you decide to ditch it and fully replace it, take a look at Dakota Digital Theres a AC control from VintageAire that matches the shape exactly, so it's a no-brainer for me.

That's what I was thinking when I started planning my rewiring. I'm going to be breaking it down into 4 smaller sections: rear lights, front lights, engine, and dash & accessory. For the rear lights and front (driving) lights, I'm not going to wire at all. What I'm planning to do is to make a small transistor switching unit, (relays for up front) at each end, and then run cat-5 from the brains, to each end. This should simplify things greatly, make finding wiring problems a lot easier, and keep the power at the lights instead of running it all through the car. For the engine electrical, that of course will need sturdier stuff, so it'll be wired more conventionally. The dash will be much easier for me because I'll be using a Dakota Digital all-in-one gauge cluster that'll need only one power lead, but it still needs sensor leads.

You have to remember that you don't have one input with a high-low-off state, what you have is two separate inputs, one for high, one for low. You're going to make your circuit more complicated adding some switching to do that. It's by no means impossible, just more complicated. Ignore what I said before about using a single resistor. I just tested here and remembered why it's a bad idea. If your LEDs arent exactly the same, the one that needs the least current will light and the others will be dim. That is, until the bright one burns out, and then the next in line will light ... until it burns out ... etc. I made the same exact mistake a few years back, you'd think it would be easy to remember. If you want to get creative, you could use some tri-color (RGB) LEDs. You could light just the red lead for dim, and light all three (pseudo-white) for bright. Of course this could open some cool posibilities, maybe instead of the red leads, you tie into the blue, giving you really interesting purple (through the red lens) tail lights.

You could have probably used just a single resistor instead of wiring each LED individually. To replace the brake lights, lets say you're using 40 LED's you might group 8 of them together for the dimmer element, and the other 32 for the brighter element. Put a resistor in-line before each group. Make sure the 8 are not physically grouped together, you would want them spread throughout the light surface area. .----O----. + +----O----+ - ------////------+----O----+------------- +----O----+ '----O----'

Are you sure it's not a test car for 3M adhesives ?

There's a Mini Cooper somewhere just waiting for that

Not that anyone should condone treating a nice car like that, but ... Does he know that it is somebody's car, and that it's not just a junker put together by the studio only to look nice on camera. He might think that the studio bought all of the cars and that they're expecting them all to be damaged in shooting anyway. Still, "don't sit on someone else's car" is a pretty simple rule-of-thumb.

Imagine the ones you have on there now, but chromed

I think to stop the water from coming in you would just need a 90 degree elbow and an inch or two of pipe. (I'm imagining PVC). If you had the elbow mounted on the inside, to the hole where the badge used to be, and pointing up (yes up). On top of that, a couple more inches of pipe just to be safe. That hole diameter has got to be about two inches. Even in a steady rain there wouldnt be enough air pressure to force the little bit of water up the elbow and up the pipe as well. The air would be able to come in, and the water would be able to run back down into the vent and out again.

I'm not a big fan, but thats just me. I think if you follow the window lines it will look a lot better

"No sir, I dont like it" ZMasters headlight mod would just barely save it, but still, ... no thanx

Now that was a THOROUGH "walk-around". How many times did you check the height of the camera (lol)

I think the theory is that the tag information are public records, and that somebody could look up the car to find out where it is and go steal it. The problems with this are: - If somebody is going to do that, it's much easier to just ride through a nice neighborhood to find a car to lift. - Not all states provide that information. - Most states require you to fill out a form to request the information, so they have a copy of who looked up the tag. - Its not worth it for somebody to troll online looking for pictures because theres no way for them to know if you haven't already transposed the digits in photoshop

Thanx, you just saved me a ton of research

Wasn't that one of the villans in an episode of Dr. Who ???

LOL, if that's the case, then you do know exactly what I'm talking about. I accidentally left the loose one in after taking out the tops one day, and it blew out. I searched a quarter mile of back road to find it again.

I cant seem to find a picture of it, the best I can do is a picture of where it isn't. I can't imagine it would be too hard to make one. I had one loose when the car went into the shop, and the other one was taken off and is in a box somewhere. I'm just anticipating not being able to find it again.